JoeyB

And besides it being quite difficult, as everyone has already said, machining cases of a "Registered Design" is counterfeiting. That's a much stiffer penalty, and likely in more than one country, than 'trafficking' or buying counterfeits. Remember we push the line here now.

The Date-Just is smaller, 1mm.

That's a nice 'nail'! When asked if she could tell an old man in the dark, my female friend said "it ain't hard..."

1.3mm

I appreciate that. Actually I'm not going to go that far. I'm going to keep the adjusting function for the GMT and quickset for the date wheel. I'm too close to the edge now, non adjustable might push me over...

Oh, so you've seen my carpet! I think soon I'll be able to regulate the rug! I thought so, as I looked at all the schematics and parts lists and found none. Thank you again, my friend!

Yes, Jean, I know. I too hope for re-election. I think, without getting into a political discussion here, that the way our Nations worked together to help the Libyans liberate themselves is the way it should be. As your Nation helped mine win our Liberty. We supported their fight with air power as France supported our fight with Sea Power. The Libyan People did the boots on the ground fighting for their Liberty, not us. They will choose their new government, not us. And we must support their choice, even if it's not the government that we want.

That's what they say about my guy...

Merci beaucoup! Vive la France!

I checked the parts schematics for the ETA 2836-2. 2846 and 2893-2. All three 'intermediate datewheel gears' are the same part number, and all three are the 2 gear stack. No top gear for the gear attached to the bottom of the 24 hour pinion. I looked at the other gears, but no joy. If no one has one or a broken/non-working movement to sell, I will have to buy a new one.

I'm converting an ETA 2846 to GMT and have all the parts except the 'intermediate datewheel gears' (I think that's what they are called). The non-GMT has a two gear 'stack', for the GMT function to work it needs a three gear 'stack'. Does anyone have a 3 gear stack, or a movement with one I can buy? Please let me know. It's this 3 gear stack (photo stolen from freddy) Thanks, guys.

That looks like a scammer site, having "cloned" the real Perfect Clones site. You can find the real site through our trusted dealers section, and here http://www.1-pc8838.com/index.php Geez, if you can't trust a replica site of a replica site, who can you trust?

To my knowledge the lume glow is greenish, not yellow.

After digging out the old pearl I put a touch of lume, then the drop of epoxy. With clear epoxy tint the lume, or as I did on the 6204, use the amber color epoxy as is. It came out great.

Most of the 6204s I've seen have no hash mark inserts. Wholesale has them, but not cheap either http://www.ebay.com/...=item483f9c19a3 Maybe one of the cartel dealers would sell you one, they have them on the 6205 and 5510 http://www.1-pc8838....836-p-9099.html Aging the pearl makes all the difference in the look. I did the epoxy drop and couldn't believe the change. I added the 6mm Brevet '+' crown from RafflesTime and just put an ETA 2846 in it. I really love it.

Do you mean the ID of the bezel itself, not the insert?

A genuine is gonna cost you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-GMT-MASTER-6542-1675-GILT-MINI-HANDS-NEW-OLD-STOCK-NOS-/270914803032?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item3f13c7d558

True, but on the ETA 2893-2 all you need do is to move the GMT hand in 'jumps'. That is no less effective when traveling. Further, when I use a modified 2836-2 or a DG GMT watch while traveling, the GMT hand is always set to GMT/UTC. I simply turn the bezel and read the time off the 4th hand at the bezel. To me, that's less effort when traveling than working the crown. I'd guess that it is a personal preference.

You have better eyes than mine. The Rolex movement GMT hand is "quickset" just as the ETA 2893-2 is. They both 'jump'. You can move/jump the GMT hand without hacking the watch on either movement. Some experts say the ETA is better designed. It's on the internet.

Well done! I like it.

The bottom of pinion and the GMT gear sit above the date wheel line. So the one way is to machine the back of the dial so there are two circle indents for the gears to sit in, bringing the movement closer to the dial. Or you can try to 'shim' the movement by using a dial spacer of differing thicknesses. I had to thin mine out to the point that the GMT hand would still 'bite' on the GMT pinion, and the stem would line up with the case tube while clearing the dial. I believe it all depends on the case due to the case tube. The 'worst' scenario only because of cost is to buy the longer pinions from an ETA supplier.

Yes, all the ETA 28XX movements use the same size hour, minute and second hands. The GMT hand for the ETA 2893-2 is the same as for the Rolex 1575, but NOT the same as those used on the modified 2836-2 or the DG 21j movements, they have larger pinions. The Rolex Tudor is ETA equipped, so Tudor hands will work on the ETA 2893-2 as well.

General consensus is that the CHS, correct hand stack, is not a reliable movement. There have been a few exceptions. The ICHS, incorrect hand stack, is only detectable with a loupe, macro pic, or Kal-El's vision. The 21J DG3804b Chinese movement is a GMT designed piece, not a conversion. It is reliable, and when it's time to service you simply remove the movement, hit it with a hammer and buy a new one from Frei or most suppliers for $25. Both the Asian 2836-2 and the 'Swiss' ETA 2836-2 are converted/modified movements to make it GMT. Most work OK with no issues. Consensus is that if you opt for the 'Swiss' you will be getting an Asian anyway, the genuine Swiss ETA not really being available. Depending on your skill level you can put in your own movement, such as an ETA 2893-2 which is a genuine, from the ground up GMT movement. Some 'experts' have said it is better than the Rolex GMT movement. It takes some work, fitting and shimming, to get it to fit correctly, and it is expensive, about $260 and up. It takes the same hands as the Rolex Tudor, and the GMT/4th hand is the same as the Rolex 1575 GMT movement. All very available. To my knowledge, the case, bezel and insert are the same for all the GMTIIc from our recommended dealers, the movement is the only difference. So, it comes to personal preference and cost. As this is your first rep, you might think about if you are the kind of nut as we are that won't stop at one rep, and move on to modding/building as we learn more. If so, I'd recommend the 21J movement, wear it for a while, buy the 3 or 4 or 5 reps that catch your eye reading this forum, and in a year or two or three you'll look at this one with that certain stare most of us get, and tear it apart to make it better. It is inevitable. There is no cure for this. Even those who have 'graduated' to buying a genuine Rolex still come back here to the reps. You're gonna love this stuff.

It is slick, you're gonna love that movement. Some of the 'experts' I've read doing side by side comparisons rate the ETA 2893-2 as a better movement than the Rolex 3186. They've almost doubled in price over the last two years, so I took mine out of my 6542 and put in my 16710 that I wear every day.

That could be months... Very nice! Wear it in good health!