alligoat

Patent pending have a HE valve, it was just before Rolex had received a patent for it. I'm not sure how many were produced- maybe 50-100, maybe less. Many were trashed out in diving. This one isn't a collaboration with Comex per se- the ones with the Comex dial were built for Comex. Much of the feedback Rolex got in developing this model came from Comex. This case has been polished and looks pretty thick to me, esp. at the bezel.

Ah, but what about the story on VRF about the water polo team which had the 5513's with that clasp. I like the crown on the water polo watch better.

The winding crown is a 24-700- no dots under the crown. That's right for a 1971 watch. Caseback engraving looks unusual in one pic, but I don't know that much about Tudors. Looks like a pretty nice example, certainly in great condition for a 39 year old watch.

The Rolex crown, 24-703-0, and tube, 24-7030-0, have been copied by the rep people and are very accurate. You can compare the BK crown to your gen and then decide if you want to change or not. On the PT 1665, the tube is fine, but the crown is a tad too tall. I ended up switching out both since I boogered up the tube trying to take it out. It is easier to trim cg's w/o the tube in your way. But w/ a BK WM9 you don't need to trim cg's! Good luck.

As long as the stem of the 2678 is a .9mm/tap 10, it will fit the gen crown. I'm pretty sure it is. You can just change out the crown because it will fit the WM9 case tube. When you change out the tubes, you need the tap to clean out the threads in the case- 3.0mm x .35- and then you need the Rolex tool for installing the tube in the case. That and a dab of thread locker (red loc-tite) on the threads and you're good to go. Good luck.

Looks good, JB. A dark brown croc strap and you're there. This is a dk brown croc strap, just a bad pic.

Great info, automatico! Thanks. I have a vintage Roamer chrono where the crystal popped out- this may be just what I need.

Wonder if it's a T-1!

It's a slow process, Just keep sanding in a circular motion around the inside edge. Boring as all get out, but eventually you'll get there.

Va bene, M! e ciao ciao ciao.

Swapping in a gen clasp is a good idea, but the good ones will run $150. Here's one where the coronet has been polished almost smooth- pretty common for 30 year old clasps. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-original-1680-Submariner-fliplok-buckle-/270654070183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f043d5da7

Watchbuys is the only distributor in the US. I don't know how you'd do ordering from overseas. I bought this 303 Silber about 3 years ago- it's the most accurate watch I own- beats my Rolexes hands down. WR to 200m/660ft. I paid back then about what a U1 costs from Watchbuys these days. I consider the 7750 in this watch to be chronometer grade- it's accurate to within a minute a month! I'm pretty impressed with Sinn quality.

The yuki bracelet isn't worth it- marked 93250 on the back, it has solid middle links to boot and the wrong dive extension. Stick with the PT bracelet- smooth it down w/ some 400 wet/dry if the edges are too sharp for you. It's really not a bad rep bracelet for the price. You can pick up a used gen for $400 if it's really bothering you. I did like the new Yuki offering- an almost decent 5508 w/ a 2824 motor- replace the pearl and you're good to go http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/7617720/8337563.htm oh yeh, age the dial and hands a little too. Heck, age the watch period.

Those are the gen tubes, you need the generic. Like Dizzy, I've had good luck with the 24-7030 tubes from Mr. Slimeball. I broke too many of the clark's so I quit using them. Might give Cousinsuk a try if I need any more

The correct codes on the clasp would be like VC, VD, or VE for instance, which would be the late 70's up til '80 or so. But I've seen 1665's as late as 1983, even though the 16660 was already out at that point. Look around for a list of the clasp codes and the corresponding dates. The 93150 came out around 1976-7 as I recall. Prior to that a 9315 would be correct for a DRSD of course. But bracelets do get changed out as the links get stretched out, so replacements bracelets are common even on gens.

Cool LH. I know we've got friends over there in Italy, I just never know where in Italy they are.

Sorry to see your 7032 take a spill on the sidewalk LH. All I can think of is to google watchmakers in Rome or where ever you are- in Italian, of course! Good luck.

Http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1287729322/Okay+I+know+someone+is+on+this...+6538+A.... The guys over at VRF picked up on it also

Thanks for the heads up, Freddy.

Might be time to invest in a $10 pair of calipers. Cousins UK shows two 116 crystals, one with a 30.0mm OD and another with a 30.2mm OD. The cyclops are also positioned differently- one 98 from the CL and the other 87. http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/4/494/1957.aspx

I just file the inside of the bezel down slightly, slowly by hand and use 320 wet/dry to smooth it. Just keep moving around the bezel, a little at a time. Check periodically so you don't over do it, if you do, then you're chingaled!

Enjoy your trip, LH! The best one was in Mestre when my wife said the bar had free internet! 36 euros later I convinced my mother in law it was time to go get dinner. Cheers.

Looks good, bet you're enjoying the lume!

Heck, the watch looks decent, it is 54 years old and the movement looks fine to me. Sure, it probably needs a service. But I'm headed to Austin Thursday! I could track this guy down!

Excellent LH, glad to see you the chime in, and I would agree with your observation of the beveled edge T-21 being later. I remember your comparison post from earlier this year and enjoyed revisiting it just now. I'm pretty happy with the jandk crystal, I'm using it to replace the original DW crystal which was too loose. I've found these DW crystals to be a little slim on the OD- in the 30.4+mm range, whereas the aftermarket and gens are in the 30.55mm to 30.6mm. So when you swap in a better crystal, you then have to go back and file the bezel so it will fit over the better crystal. Enlarging the ID of the bezel is a slow process for me- 30 minutes to an hour of hand filing and sanding with lots of test fitting in between. But eventually you reach the point where you can press the bezel over the crystal with a good tight fit. LH, hope all is well. You left home as a typhoon was arriving. Are you having good luck finding free internet connections?