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alligoat

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Everything posted by alligoat

  1. Well it certainly is an interesting franken. It's value may come down to the sum of it's two gen parts- the movement and the bracelet which appears to be a 7205. Of course, a 7206 bracelet would be correct for this watch. The mid case is good, but would be better with a gen like bezel, if one could be fitted to the case. Springbars look nice and fat which is also good. I'd figure the movement is worth around $1000 and the bracelet is $250-300, possibly more in the right market.
  2. 16610 R serial w/ original open 6/9 DW- grandson of the 1680!
  3. Give us the listing link or at least the number of the auction
  4. Or take it to a rep friendly watchmaker and watch him do it in 5 minutes- $20 maybe, maybe only $10. Cheaper and faster than sending it to Andrew
  5. Sounds like you're pretty well set- look forward to seeing it when it's done.
  6. I also think the case looks pretty good- lugs are slightly thinner than my NDT 5508 case. Appears to have a nicer bevel to the lugs which could probably stand to be aged some! We're talking about a 56 year old watch. I have the NDT dial in my build, but don't remember what diameter it was- it's been 6 years since I built it. I put a Rolex 1520 movement in mine- a 1530 would be correct, but they're basically the same except for the beat rate- 18,000 vs 19,800. I've been using the WSO 5508 insert which is ok- all acrylic pearl.
  7. the 93150 bracelets with the rounded 3 are later. the key is to look at the 93150 on the clasp wings- those still have the flat top 3 in 93150
  8. The Valjoux 23 is the bi-compax version of the V72- then you'd have a non working subdial at 6 o'clock, similar to the ST-19
  9. Screwdrivers are a constant maintenance item! You have to keep a stone around- keep the tips flat and square and file the sides so that they don't get too fat!
  10. For a black 6239 dial, you can go to NDTradingcorp.com or jewelryandwatch.com. Can also check Yuki or Minh Quy. Dials with'Oyster' in the name won't work because the 6239 isn't considered an oyster.
  11. For the gold bezel to fit on the TC sub, it has to be gen like. 10 years ago the bezels weren't gen like on the reps.
  12. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=10&_fpos=&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_fss=1&_fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1&_saslop=1&_sasl=valjouxshop&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50 He's currently got 11 items listed under 'valjouxshop'. It's a shame he's pulling tricks again.
  13. Here's a gen to compare with I always notice the serifs on 'Oyster Perpetual' on the rep dial, automatico pointed out the wrong 'O' in Rolex. But the pearl looks ok and case and bracelet look fine to me- maybe trim the cgs- but that's typical on almost all subs. If you want a 14060 no date, I'd go for it, Maybe some day you can get a better dial. At some point you have to give up being picky and just enjoy the watch! Don't forget, it's only a rep.
  14. Yep, some of yesterdays PMs are gone and the new ones aren't showing up. DB Corruption!
  15. He could get a PT 1680 and make a few mods and it would be better than messing w/ a Tudor watch. Yuki sells a 1680 dial for eta, but the date window is to the right- not correct for a Rolex. Correct hands- TC hands are pretty good Pearl- Freddy's old standby- Ofrei has them for $20+. DWO- I don't know of anyone who makes a DWO w/ Rolex fonts for the eta movement. Remember, the DWOs for rolex sit to the left of the eta DW. The PT 1680 has a 2846-2 movement. It has a somewhat decent dial and correct silver DWO with correct fonts. You could swap in a better dial and you could put a better crystal and retaining ring on there Gen crown and tube is another good mod. For $500-600 you could build a decent 1680!
  16. First order of business is to decide what you want to build- 6239, 6263, 6265, etc. If you can get a DW case, that would be cool, but I'm not sure what he's up to these days. He's not as reliable as he was 3-4 years ago. A V72 is good for a 6239 build, a V726 is better suited for a 6263/6265 build. Good luck
  17. That Noob V1 from Torobravo is kind of outdated. You can't go wrong with the sub from Trusty- it's a good starter watch at $168.
  18. Those 18kt aftermarket gold bracelets run around $5k these days and they come from HK- a little too rich for me to send $5k over to HK.
  19. " but submariner 'experts' are everywhere, They are easy to spot...most are grownups wearing genuine submariners...acting like they are 5 or 6 years old." Damn R, who told you I was acting like a 6 year old? I do agree that a TT DJ is a good watch as far as holding up- bezel, crown and center links don't get the wear that other parts get- lugs, outside links.... I'm just glad I built mine 7 yrs ago when you could get the gen case for $200 and the dial for another $75- it would be a good daily beater, but I'm not a TT DJ guy- just on certain occasions!
  20. I certainly wouldn't let a little thing like rehaut engraving stop me from building that watch- look forward to seeing it!
  21. When you go with gold reps, the key is to realize that you can't wear them day in and day out. Occasional use is best- like special occasions. Or be ready to replace parts like the bracelet when they do wear out. My latest watch in gold is a Datejust that I put together and it has a $20 GP oyster bracelet- easy enough to replace when it wears out. The case came from Mymanmatt. I also got a gold YM from Andrew about 3 years ago--it's held up ok- has the 2813 movt so it was only like $150 It looks just like this gen! If you were to buy a gold Daytona with the running seconds at 6, it would only be a question of what held up longer- the gold plating or the movement- those seconds at six movements are notorious for crapping out.
  22. I like the AR on the cyclops on the right watch, so I'm w/ the gang- right is gen.
  23. That is an earlier version- not correct for the TC sub- you need the latest insert with the triangular 4 in 40 and the superluminova pearl.
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