alligoat

It's a Valjoux 72! Early model- Leonidas so it may not fit in a Daytona case- i've got a couple of Heuers that are late 50s early 60s and they won't fit! You should measure the case- if it's 38mm the plates on the movement may be too big

That watch is the epitome of understated classic elegance! And your pics are very nice! Congrats on a beautiful watch!

Albinos always catch my attention- nice job!

Nice job and great write-up. I just marvel at how beautiful these TC subs are!

Beautiful watch! Congrats! The only little thing that I noticed is the DWO being slightly left justified. But it really is a beautiful watch!

I've been running the jube on the SS DayDate and the end links fit fine, I need to go look for the other end pieces I have- don't remember what they fit. I put the Josh 7836 on the DD- I like it better (this week)- those end links are also marked 455B! Keep in mind, I haven't drilled my lugholes on the 1601 case- it's too close a call IMO!- The 16000 cases I have look a little thicker in the lugs- I wouldn't hesitate to drill them.

Got the jubilee going with the 455B end pieces from Riyi002 (I think that's where they came from). Don't fit the 1601 case as well as they do the 16014 cases. But down here in H-town you gotta wear a bracelet if you go out and sweat- leather just ends up getting soaked.

Nice job! I certainly like what you did with the bracelet- like a 9315. Where did the dial come from?

Glad to see it back in action again, M!

Tres bon! And it's always nice when something you buy from Mr. Slimeball works!

I'd certainly give that first Yuki bracelet you linked to a try. Hopefully those 557s will work. Mary's 7835 is like the second Yuki you linked to but cheaper- seems like I read it was $50-55 or so.

First of all, get a spring bar and install the end link you have- I'm thinking you can line it up with the end of the lugs, but that's not where it will be when you put a springbar in there and install it in the holes. With the springbar in, it may move the end piece closer to the case. You also may be able to make the end piece fit better by squeezing it closed some. You don't say where on ebay you got your end pieces from- here's a bracelet from Riyi002 with the ubiquitous 455B end pieces ebay.com/itm/19MM-BRUSHED-STAINLESS-STEEL-OYSTER-BAND-BRACELET-FOR-ROLEX-OLD-EXPLORER-WATCH-N/141380266460?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D24192%26meid%3D829788e57e1d43fab01063c30efc8153%26pid Those end pieces seem to fit 1500 Date watches pretty well- but yours is earlier. DW used to produce a 78350 bracelet with the 571 end pieces (for the early Daytonas, 6239, 6263, 6265). If you could find one of those it would be worth a try. Or place a WTB in the Vintage Rolex Market- a 7835 would also work- it's the predecessor to the 78350 Mary at Watches International can also get you the rep 7835- that might work Good Luck!

I sent my DJ up to Matt for a movement swap- the asian eta had crapped out and he installed a swiss eta 2826-1- DW is perfectly centered and watch is running great. The case is one he sold me- it's holding up well and I have it on a $20 riyi002 GP bracelet. Should be easy to swap the bracelet when it shows signs of age.

I guess it's time to buy another watch! Let the mods begin!

Yep, the problem with the MBW 1680s is everyone has too much money in them! I got mine for $440 from RBJ69- Red Big Joe- back in 2006. He put on a better rep crown!, trimmed the cgs, evened up the lume between the hands and the dial and installed a gen T-127 which I supplied- $25 bucks from Jared on VRF. Don't remember what he charged me but it was at least $250. I installed the gen insert, drilled the lugholes and put a gen 93150 w/ 580 ends on it. I scratched the heck out of the cyclops at the gun range on a concrete bench! Swiss 2836-2 w/ a nice 16800 type DWO- perfect for a 3035 build! I hate the MBW red sub dial- I thank By-Tor for that, but he's right about it- it's just not a good dial- red print is too big. LHOOQ got me a white MBW 1680 dial when he was in Bangkok. I've got a 2846-2 and a MBW silver DWO with correct fonts. Relume the dial and hands and install the 702 crown and tube which I have and it would be a $1,500 sub. It's amazing what you can put into a rep! But as automatico says, it will last for 20 years if serviced, maybe longer!

I'd get the cartel one- it'll take a better dial, get JJ to work the cgs, make a few other improvements and you'll have a good watch. A 2846-2 would be a nice addition- maybe you could find one on the bay- like automatico says, it's a good investment for the long haul.

Well, if PT's out of stock, like Bc1221 says, go with a cartel one- those ones that Josh has are well rated except for the small cgs. I've seen Rolex Addict do some nice things with the small cgs http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=191427

The stem screws into the crown

If I were to get a 1680 these days, it would be the PT white dialed 1680 with the 2846 movement. The watch has lots of good features and if modded can be really nice. It has a nice DWO- gen like, decent bezel insert and pearl, low-beat 2846, decent hollow mid link bracelet, close to gen size lugholes and springbars. Plan on trimming the crown guards- what else is new? This watch will take a gen crystal, but then you may have a challenge getting the crystal retaining ring and bezel back on. Worst case scenario is having to go with some gen-like rep parts- crystal retaining ring and bezel. Gen crown and tube are like all other reps- can be done fairly easily. This watch will take a gen dial or good aftermarket dial. Relume the dial and hands and it could be a killer watch!

You might also depress the button and turn the crown while pitting it back in there.

Looks like the older 'tall' coronet. Those haven't been repped yet to my knowledge. The 'tall' coronet ran til around 1999-2000 when it was replaced by the 'squatty' coronet! The 'squatty' coronet has been repped.

Open the case back, unscrew the crown and depress the little button on the movement plate by the stem with a 1.2mm screwdriver and pull the stem and crown out. People do this from different positions, winding or time setting, I've just found as long as you don't depress the release button too much and mess up the keyless, you'll be ok. With a pair of pliers, hold the stem tightly and unscrew the crown. Then screw the new crown on the stem to the same place where the old crown was screwed into and you're ready to put it back in the movement and away you go.

So then it's too short, or not short enough? Sounds like a simple fix for a good watchmaker, might require a new stem.

My little chart calls for a 24-5300 case tube and a 24-530 crown. Good luck!

Looks very nice, but I'd like it better with an nicely aged pearl in that insert!