Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

alligoat

Platinum Member
  • Posts

    6,320
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Everything posted by alligoat

  1. It's either an Asian eta or maybe a swiss eta, but it's missing the autowind rotor but it looks like the bearing is still there. It probably could be serviced w/ a new rotor and who knows what else. M458117 looks like a noob SN. Rehaut is decent, pearl looks ok, with a trim to the insides of the cgs, and a movement service, it might be a decent beater.
  2. I would think so. 14060M and114060 have the 3130 movement which is the 3135 w/o the date feature.
  3. Watch looks gen to me- old style 703 crown w/ the tall crown emblem, bezel insert is correct for 2000 yr, dial is right and crown guards look good. Correct 93150 bracelet also
  4. Jacek Kozubek (on VRM and hqmilton.com) is good for vintage Rolex- he's in San Francisco. Andrew Shear- Sheartime.com is also good I bought my R serial 16610 from Bernard Watch- bernardwatch.com I consider ebay the wholesale place to buy vintage watches, but you have to buy the seller first. Jared, watchcrusher on ebay and motorhead350 or something like that on VRM is a used Rolex dealer in Cherry Hill, NJ.
  5. Seems like you guys in Europe always pay more for Rolex watches, maybe watches in general. Here in the states, I'd figure you could pick up that model of 1675 for $4,000-5,000 usd. Watch looks good to me and I'd figure the hands are tritium like the dial- they appear to match to me.
  6. I had to go back and read it again, but right you are janeto72! Coopster9 lists it at $3000usd whereas a true Rolex 727 would be worth $10-15K usd, And he as much as admits that it's not a true 727 on page 6 of the RWI thread.
  7. Looks like the watch is gone now. Yep, M, we are talking about the same part. My terminology comes out of the 1949 Assembl-O-Graf Manual- whereas Valjoux does refer to it as the coupling clutch, mounted- the whole assembly.
  8. I agree, the movement is not right. The chronograph pivoted detent bridge (the 'L' shaped bridge at 7-8 o'clock) is an early one w/ a screw in it- after the 6234, Rolex used the newer pivoted detent bridge w/o the screw. This may be what LHOOQ refers to as the coupling clutch mount.
  9. The 1530/1520 movement is 28.5mm wide and fits in the 34mm case, as well as the other rolex cases that use those movements The 2824-2 is 25.6mm. the #2 ring has an ID of 26mm so it fits over the 2824-2 and an OD of 28.2mm so it will fit inside the 5500 case. This ring will also work for other cases where the ID of the case is larger than 28.2mm. I didn't see a #1 ring listed on rafflestime's site today, but I've seen them before.
  10. I was thinking it was the #2 ring from rafflestime....
  11. I do think this 14060 DLC w/ the 3-6-9 dial has possibilities
  12. Darn Rick! Now all you need to do is learn how to post a few pics. I'd love to hear more about the rep 9315- I'd love to run across one of those. It certainly sounds like a cool build.
  13. And let's not forget, if Rolex finds one little thing wrong with a watch, the whole watch is counterfeit!
  14. That AR'd crystal looks nice! I've got one from Big Crown- guess it's time to install it on the Euromariner.
  15. Cool! nice set of parts- which end links did you get from WSO?
  16. LOL! I've got you beat by a day A! It has been a long time and like you say, a lot of those people from the early days have moved on. I still enjoy it, but I'm not as active as I used to be.
  17. Another case from Switzerladn! The SN would help, but it's undoubtably a chinese case- you'd have to figure it has the old style bezel assembly. Maybe the 2836-1 is worth 100 pounds these days rehaut doesn't look too bad! Cut your losses and run!
  18. Nice write-up R! I'd love to see a side profile of the two crystals- w/o the gasket. I just remember how BK used to show the Rolex profile against the noob crystal and the straight rep crystal. It would be cool if the Clark's copied the Rolex profile.
  19. You don't say which watch you have- this would help. The Yuki caseback at $195 is not cheap, and you don't even know if it will fit your watch What about polishing the caseback you have and see if you can't make it better- the picture of the Yuki caseback is correct- maybe with a polish, yours will look more genuine. And bear in mind that no one will ever see your caseback if you keep your watch on your wrist!
  20. You know R, I was thinking the same thing about the 93150! I was even thinking of getting the TC V5 bracelet so that I could take the clasp off of it!
  21. DW has had his ups and downs, but if you buy off of ebay and use Paypal, I would think you'd do ok. His 7032 case was what everyone was using 4-5 years ago to build their Tudor Chronos- it should still work.
  22. The HR case looks like a fair possibility to me, yes the rehaut is too deep, cgs are on the short side, but it could still work. I tried to cut and paste from photobucket and ebay, but nothing works! At any rate, with a good dial, hands, crown and insert and a drilling of the lugholes, I would think you'd have a decent 5513. And the price isn't unfair, less than what you'd pay for an MBK, but with the MBK you'd get the crown, dial, hands and movement- whether you'd use them is another question. So if you had the other parts and just needed the case, it might work out ok.
  23. I would think Yuki is your best bet- they have a bunch of 5500 dials, reasonable prices. Look forward to seeing your watch when you get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up