alligoat

Looks good- I like the droop of the crown guards! That's a nice detail most reps don't get right- tell us more about your case.

Nice job RJ! One question- what is a RT caseback?

You're trying to fit a crystal on a chinese rep. So that means it has chinese dimensions, not Rolex dimensions. If the 30.6 crystal worked for Kime, you're best off to stick w/ the same size. You can go to ofrei.com and see dimensions on the T-19- they vary but all are less than 30.5mm. Buying a set of calipers would also be a good idea- Harbor Freight has them for around $15.

Keep looking! That's a high retail price. You also might go to an earlier model- the 16203 and be able to pick it up for $2-3K less.

I've never seen a Serpico y Laino dial on a sub, rep or real. We do have rep sub dials with Cartier and Tiffany on the dial.

Nanuq's is a very earlly MBW- doesn't it even have a 2824-2 in it? You need to check the engravings- "ORIG POLEX DESIGN" then the inside caseback- Gelena Shiterand SN on those early MBWs was 5,78x,xxx or 5,79x,xxx as I recall. the pearl looks like the typical MBW pearl- an opaque white.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Datejust-Case-/271708012045?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item3f430f3e0d http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rolex-Datejust-Case-Case-Back-Ref-16014-6-0m-Serial-/371211662433?pt=UK_Jewellery_Watches_WatchAccessories_SpareParts_SM&hash=item566df07461 A 16014 case will work- just use the bezel from the 16013 and you're good to go.

Looks pretty rough to me- I'd say it's an asian 21j

The dial was $158 from Yuki! Sure wish he had some more.

I got my hands fr rafflestime and they were ok- but that was maybe 2 years ago. You might ask Ken if he happens to have the 'old style' mercedes hands. I also got the small GMT hand for $25, that was before he upped the price!

I did have an old noobmariner that did ok in the water swimming. But I doubt it could have gone diving. It had the lugholes drilled and had a relumed 16800 matte dial. But the noob crystal is just pressed into a nylon gasket I finally put the dial and movement in an ST case and feel much more confident about swimming in it- but this isn't a $200 watch! I guess if I were going for a WR Sub, I might buy a $100-200 vintage sub from Josh and then get out the silicone grease and maybe even glue the crystal on. But KBH is right- you can't put glue around the stem- only a light coat of silicone on the gaskets. This William Marshall is a $200 dive watch- been down 125 feet with it- swiss eta 2824. But I got it 8 years ago! these days, I'd probably get a Seiko SKX007 or something like that for $160.

Frankens are the way to go- here's one with a gen white dial These were built around 2007-8 when you could get case and dials for $200 or so, put in a swiss eta and a few other parts and build a nice franken for $500 or so Now days it's more expensive, but you can still build these frankens if you're patient in looking for parts.

I see two things that give this watch away. First is the serifs on 'OYSTER PERPETUAL' and secondly is the thin date font and a 2 that's just a little off. But considering what you paid who cares! I got this one from Silix for $67 usd. It's a little better- no serifs on OYSTER PERPETUAL but I can't remember why I bought it, maybe for the case...

I've built two watches with aftermarket 16800/16610 bezels and I can tell you it's a lot of work. First was bringing an MBW/Euromariner up to snuff. Jandkwatches comes to mind, on ebay, bought the bezel from them and after alot of sanding it finally fit correctly. I had bought a genuine crystal retention ring and it fit fine on the case and the crystal, so the bezel had to be fit to the retention ring, but it finally happened. Watch is WR and doing fine, gen bezel insert snapped right in. Second watch was a 16800 matte dial with the ST case- same deal, it was a matter of patience and finally I got it right So I'd stick with Tom's advice- order another TC bezel and hope it fits. BTW, I sanded mine with some wet/dry sandpaper, 320 or 400 grit- just keep going around the inside. Pressed the bezel on with the crystal press.

I can't see where replicadetails is around these days. It's not a bad looking rep- the case appears to be correct for a Day-Date with the flat spot between the lugs. A few weeks ago we saw another DD that was similar- appeared to be good quality also, someone said it might be an MBW. But even MBWs are hard to find these days. Mymanmatt builds very nice rep DJs and DDs with gold cases. They might cost a little bit more but the quality is there. I built this DJ with his case and a gen white dial It was very reasonable costwise around $400 with a swiss eta.

Nice, a 6309 Thunderbird from the 50s. Movement is a 10-1/2'", automatic. these go for around $12k in gold Here's a few more: https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/luxprice-index-watches/rolex-datejust-6309-prices.html I love the depth rating on the dial

This watch doesn't have the dial you're looking for, but it's a decent starter watch and somewhat accurate. http://www.pf-818.com/0rldv00124v-6263pn-ssss-cream-asian-venus-p-12358.html The Venus 75 movement is reliable and even though the six o'clock subdial is fixed, the watch is still a decent starting place. If you really like it, then you can start working on building a more accurate rep and spending $2-3K on it. Keeping an eye open on the sales forums would also be a good way to pick up a 6263

Ollech & Wajs- MK4 Roamer Heuer 1964 Re-Edition Baylor with the 24 hour bezel Pre-Carrera Heuer and a 6238 cartel Sinn 203 Silber- the most accurate of any of my nechanical watches and WR to 200 meters Breguet Type XX with the V23 movement, but not a flyback Jean Marcel with the 7751- the modern triple date Albino 6239 on the right from DW and my V72 6238 with the 6239 bezel the 6238 with the phong case and dial

That's a beautiful watch pseudonym! Picking up the early 3135 DW was a major coup! Congrats!

You could probably find a 1989 L serial 16610 for around $4500, maybe a little less, you just have to be patient and be ready to move when you do see it. I picked up my R serial 16610 for $4400 a year ago.

This is correct, but I have a 2834-2 in my ST3035 case and a 2836-2 will also work. Finding a ST3135 would be cheaper than a TC case, and they used to come with lugholes. They run around $200 with the bezel and crystal, I believe.

Beyeler was making 16800 dials in the early 1980s. this is a matte dial from 1981 it's the same dial print as your dial has rower, only difference is yours is later with the white gold surrounds, c. 1984. this 1680 dial is also a Beyeler, circa 1978, it's called a MKII By 1988 dials had changed- this is a 168000, R serial Completely different from the earlier 80s dials- smaller print for Submariner and 1000ft/300m. I think by this time Rolex was doing the dials in-house. I don't know if they bought Singer and/or Beyeler at that time or what.

1610 takes a larger crystal- the 295-C 14060 takes a smaller crystal- a 285 or a 286- don't know which one. Sea Dwellers also take the smaller crystal 14060 case is slightly smaller than the 16610

L serial Rolexes were in production during 1989. That would be the case for either the 16610 or the 16600. Like BC says, tritium dials,hands and inserts were still being used back in those days. A TC case with lugholes, a Yuki dial that says 'Swiss T < 25', a flat four bezel insert and a 93150 bracelet with 501B ends would get you awfully close on a 16610. You could have Phong engrave it for you- don't know what that costs. I have a c. 1998 MBW Euromariner- A serial- with lugholes, a 93150 bracelet with 501 B ends and a flat 4 bezel insert. But then I went and put a WM9 dial and hands in it- but they sure glow well at night. Tritium from 1989 wouldn't glow much these days if at all. Here's the A serial- can't see the lugholes!

WOW! I love that dial rower! A beautiful c. 1984 dial- same dial print as the earlier matte dials, but with the new wg surrounds. Awesome! Does it say Beyeler on the back?