alligoat

I like what Ronin says. That pointed "A" in Sea Dweller got me though. I have an MBW dial on my PT SD and sure enough the "A" is pointed I had to check a gen pic and sure enough, the "A has a slightly flat top But I still like the MBW dial way more than the dial that came on the PT SD

Well, that's what all the sellers say, original dial blank, redone (by a professional). But we all know that they are just aftermarket dials, nothing original about them. But they sure make for a nice rep.

You realize that you have the original date wheel in the 2824-2 and then there is a datewheel overlay that goes over it. The Tissot wouldn't have this DWO since it's not a rep. The DWO goes on top and the numbers sit slightly inside the eta DW, but line up with the date window on the Rolex rep dials (or gen dials). There are tutorials around here that can tell you how to do it. Also, if you submariner has a 2836-2, a 2824-2 might not work due to the higher stem position.

Spending $1000-1200 for a gen movement isn't worth is to me anymore, been there, done that. Particularly with the 1680/1665 when you can put in a 2846 and have something that is just as good movement wise. By the time you spend $2000-3000, you could have spent a little more and got a true gen which will only go up in value if you care for it properly. A franken will always be a franken. Some of my favorite reps are the ones which cost me either side of $500, they're modded and WR, great beaters and if I tear them up, who cares, I can fix them easily. But that being said, I'll probably still build another valjoux powered 6239, as soon as I secure a decent dial! So each to his own.

Nothing fantasy about that watch, it's a 6241! They were produced from 65 to 69 and had the 722 movt and finally the 722-1. Your dial is correct for that model. Bracelet wise, 6635 or 7205 were used early on and then the 7835 was used later. But the 78350 is still fine as far as I'm concerned. Also, there was the later 6264 which sported the same make up, only it had the updated motor- the 727. Enjoy your watch!

That's actually a pretty good price, 10 crystals for a grand- $100 each. Usually Dr B is way over priced, IMO.

I'm with WW12345 on this, send it off to jmb and have him make a crystal retaining ring for you. Then you'll have something which is a copy of the gen assembly. That damn nylon gasket is junk, a product of chinese reverse engineering.

LOL, I ordered the asian 1655 from Josh on Thursday and it just arrived today. That was pretty darn fast! Now it's time to order the rest of the parts.

This is the first I've heard of a chinese 2846-2 although it wouldn't surprise me. Both of mine which my watchmaker worked on are swiss. Here's the pic of the 1570 movement with the silver DW that automatico talked about This is what all 1680's came with originally. But bear in mind, for an eta movt, the numbers progress in the opposite direction. Sure would be nice if jmb would do a run of 50 or so of the silver DW water slide decals on a thin piece of metal! Beat they'd sell like hotcakes.

You are pretty much on your own. Certainly a 2824-2 would be a good place to start and I do think a movement spacer ring would help because I'm thinking that the 1030 series of movements are around the same size as the 1530 movement series. So the movement that came out of your 6569 is larger than a 2824-2. But basically you're going to have to operate on a trial and error basis. A 2892-2 might also work but they're expensive. Spacer rings come from Raffles-time on ebay, get the #2 size. I was able to build a vintage Explorer I using a 2824-2 in a DJ 1601 case with a spacer ring, but I just don't know about a 6569 case.

Thanks Akira. Guess I'll check my spare casebacks.

Looks good so far. I'm curious about the caseback also, why is it necessary? I'm looking at doing a ss 1675 so I'm starting to pay attention!

Another version of Donerix's 6542 Maybe, I copied it from somewhere, when I checked the properties, it said 'Photoshop'

I'd buy a gen insert and a crown and tube for your WM9 before I'd spend $400 on the 295-C2 crystal. $150-200 would be a much better price for a crystal.

Actually a 16000 DJ takes the 3035 Rolex movement. A 1600 takes the 1570 and a 16200 takes the 3135. It might be cheaper in the long run to just have your eta serviced- if it's a 2836-2, that's the best movement for the 16000 case.

I'm not sure about this unless you're using an MBW 1680 dial. Of course, the MBW 1680 case is really just a 5513 case- or used to be on the old ones- says 5513 on it. Key here is using a 1680 dial that measures 26.2mm(MBW). A real 1680 dial measures 26.5mm- it won't fit in the 5513 case w/o mods- shave the dial or turn the case on a lathe.

Looks good! If you got the V2 super lumed dial, you're in great shape.

Yep, JB, and it looks like your dial is in better shape than mine!

I've used those watches and parts pearls on two CN subs and they sure made the bezel insert look 100% better. I got mine 4-5 years ago and they were more off white with a glow to them in the dark, but they looked fine during the day.

Lol, I've got either the same dial or a similar one on my franken I figure my dial is from the early 80's, and my case is a 16014. My dial is silver and faded to beige.

The problems with the 14060 rep are: 1. The gen case is smaller than the 16610 case- just slightly, like the SD and therefore it takes a smaller crystal, bezel and insert. The rep makers just use a 16610 case, etc. If it doesn't bother you, then it's not a big deal- it's a rep anyway! 2. The dial from Prestigewatchco is wrong with the serifs on the words 'Oyster Perpetual'. JMB's dials are better- esp. if they have good lume. The good thing about the Prestigewatchco case is that it has lugholes and the bracelet has the detachable end links, not SELs. But the crown emblem on the safety clasp sucks. Oh well, it's a rep! Drill the lugholes, trim the cgs, maybe install a better 93150 bracelet with 501B end pieces and go down the road. No ones gonna notice anyway. Same old deal- fix/mod your rep and go on.

He could send it to the RSC and Rolex would do it- new dial and hands with (super) luminova. And the parts are 100% genuine Rolex. Of course, the RSC would keep the old parts! I've seen these watches showing up from time to time on the sales forums- 1675s and 1680s. Jacek and Jared come across them regularly.

You can crimp the top sides of the clasp and it will hold the divers extension in there. After time the sides will open up and not hold the extension in there.

Since the dial is a luminova service dial, the T Swiss T marking is fine. This dial dates to around 1998-2000. I've seen 1680 dials that were marked Swiss- T<25 and lumed with luminova. My 16800 has a c. 1998 service dial marked the same- Swiss- T<25 and it still glows like a torch- luminova. The T Swiss T mark would hark back to a circa 1963 dial- at the time that Rolex was switching from radium to tritium and adding the T's to either side of the Swiss. I still can't explain the lack of SCOC or maybe the older OCC. Even the 5504 Explorers were marked Precision on the bottom half.

Yep, 1500, 5500, 6694 and 1002 are all 19mm- all of the 34mm cases. For a circa 1999-2000 luminova replacement dial, that 1016 dial is certainly an oddity w/o the SCOC wording- almost like a Rolex reject that missed the trash can and made it out into the real world.