alligoat

I've been happy with my G-S crystal. It's PA462-67A. Here's a profile shot They run around $8.00 but you may have to order a few plus pay some s&h. G-S Supplies- www.gssupplies.com or 800-295-3050 Mine actually came from Ofrei about 6 years ago, but they no longer carry it. It's first cousin is the PA462-67 which is a T-19. Can't tell much from the front shot.

Hollw mid links and brushed edges- it's a tool watch! Polished edges would be a DJ, a Daytona, or a Yachtmaster

Mine is a V2 also, it's the Polizia di Stato, Sommazzatori model. Only drawback is the bracelet has solid mid links. My nephew's V1 has the correct hollow mid links- just goes to show the reps are always changing.

F539117 & Z539117

Me thinks you worry too much! A few years I bought a gen 16800 as a beater. I got a good price on it. I came to find out that it was an 8.1 mil SN with a newer tritium dial with the WG surrounds- the dial and hands glow well at night. Last summer driving into town one day in the sunlight I could clearly see the lazer etched crown- Rolex had installed a new crown when the watch was serviced in the late 90's. Also, the DW was a later replacement- closed 6's and 9's instead of the original DW w/ open 6's and 9's. To boot, the DW printing was smaller, making it look like maybe 2.0 mag. I was able to find a NOS DW and that fixed that problem. So the moral of the story is Rolex could care less. If they're Rolex parts, everything is cool as far as they're concerned, period. Get a tritium dial and get it relumed and don't worry about the LEC.

Gold datewheels on TT DJs are fine. This is one of those gray areas which can go either way. You're more likely to see a white DW on a silver dialed TT DJ. A gold dialed TT DJ should have a gold DW. An SS DJ will have a white datewheel.

Nice comparison. The thread pitch on the case ends of the 702 and 703 tubes looks slightly different... You would hope the 702 tube is 3.0mm x .35 just like the 703 tube. I have a 702 case tube which came out of my '78 1680, I'll look at it tonight when I get home. I had to go to the 703 assembly a few years ago when my crown putzed out- threads stripped out in the stem end. Since then, I've picked up a 702 crown in case I decide to switch back.

Sounds like it. Gen hole size is 3.0mm x .35. The .35mm is the thread pitch. Don't know what WM9 size is. The next common size smaller is 2.5mm x .20 which is what Rolex uses on the 5.3mm crowns for DJs and GMTs, etc. 2.5mm x .25 is another possibility. Old MBWs have a smaller hole size- I broke off a tap trying to enlarge one once. The proper way to do it is drill the smaller hole with a 2.65mm drill bit and then run the 3.0mm tap thru it.

I did notice yesterday that Josh's Rolex Explorer 1655 had jumped up to $138- I believe it was at $118 previously. And all I want is the case to build a 1675.

congrats! Now you're set for swimming and washing the dishes. We won't tell your wife!

Yep, PT rep w/ a swiss 2846. Fake HE valve, but still a good beater for the price.

Looks great to me! I'm not a fan of the Daytona buckle, but you certainly got a good deal. Congrats!

Although the etched crown is important on late model Rolex replacement crystals, the profile on the side of the crystal is just as important. The bottom of the crystal measures 29.5mm and the top juts out to around 30.5mm. If your crystal has that profile on the side and the etched crown, I'd figure it's gen. BKLM1234 used to show a shot of the gen side profile at one point, with a couple of other cystals but it's been 3-4 years ago! Cousinsuk has a nice 295-C crystal which also copies the Rolex side profile. It's the only aftermarket crystal I've seen which copies the Rolex design well.

You've got the right part numbers for the gen crowns. All you can do is remove the current crown and stem and see if a gen will fit on the existing tube. But for best results, I'd install a gen tube or one of the good aftermarket tubes. That way you're assured of a good tight fit.

I've bought a number of straps from FredaWatchStraps. I like the 835 alligator tail grain which is a leather strap embossed to look like alligator. Then I put a 16mm Rolex buckle on there- like the one Yuki sells for $18. http://www.fredawatchstraps.com/haroaltagr.html I end up with something that looks just like your picture! Here's the strap on my O&W MKIII I used to wear my 16013 DJ with the strap, but I've had a jubilee on there for a while now

Mag was slightly small on my 6694, so I made it into a MKII Explorer- great lume on the dial and hands- too bad Bill Yao has discontinued the dial and hands parts section. I first put an aftermarket crystal on the 6694- it fit fine, but the cyclops was too far left. So then I put a T-12 on there and the MKII dial and hands- the dial had eta feet so it fit perfectly. I bought this watch back in 2006, so it had a swiss eta, all for $130! I've got $300 in the watch, even left the Rolex rep crown and tube on there. All I need to do is check it for WR. It works pretty well with this $10 metal bracelet also- 19mm, no logo, with a flip lock clasp. The 6694 case is probably a good deal by itself since it takes a 2836- that and a 28mm dial and you could build a very nice rep.

You're not going to be able to find an Oyster Perpetual Date on Trusty's site. The closest you will come is a Datejust with the smooth bezel. No one makes a rep of the 34mm OP Date. Here's a couple of gens There was a watch from Silix, but it is a copy of the 6694 Oysterdate Hope this helps.

Mine came from Angus/Nikki at Puretime Intl.

Yes, it is a V2 case, at least the one I have is- complete w/ the V2 SN of Z539117. Original SSD's had an F539117 SN.

@ omgiv, I don't have a pic of the squat 703 coronet, but the one in freddy's pic sure looks squat to me. There was a discussion here about a year ago or so on this subject. I can check tonight, I have both. My 1680, and two 16800's have tall 703 coronets- all my reps w/ gen crowns have the squat 703's.

No, there's the tall crown and the squat crown, tall is vintage, both are 24-703. Both are the 'wrapped' construction Monobloc is 24-704. It also fits the 24-7030 tube. I've seen the 704 crown used on the YM and Daytonas, but I think the 703 is still used on the subs and other tool watches, but maybe the 704 is being used on everything at this point.

The taller coronets (crowns) are the older vintage ones. They are still 24-703's. The squatter crowns are newer. The taller ones would be appropriate for a 5513, 1665, 1680 and a 16800- and would be service crowns in the case of the 5513, 1665, and 1680 since these all came with 24-702 or earlier model crowns originally. Early 16800's may have also come with the 24-702 crown and tube assembly, but both of mine have the 24-703 crown and tube with the tall coronet. Rolex could care less and swaps out crowns and tubes fairly regularly when servicing a sub. So a squat crown on an old watch is just fine as far as Rolex is concerned- that's what they have available.

I put an NDT 5508 dial on the window sill in the sun for a month and it bleached it out fairly well- to a much lighter yellow. I've also used tea to stain a dial and also some light brown paint as a wash. Of course, a relume in a vintage white/ivory is the cat's meow, IMO.

On an older Rolex Date, 1570 movement, my watchmaker said the axle jewel was cracked and he had to replace it. But it's a 35 year old movement. On a newer 3135, you would think the jewel wouldn't just fall out unless it was hit pretty hard. I'd be careful going to the RSC, it'll probably run around $500+. Any decent watchmaker should be able to service it and replace the jewel for $250-300!

Andrew Shear was selling a MK4 gen, 5.25mill SN for $22,500 over at VRM yesterday. I keep thinking I've seen lesser examples for sale in the $15K range. Of course, no one has ever really questioned me about any of my reps (or gens for that matter), but like Dizzy, I stay away from the DRSD because they are so expensive these days. I opted for the GWSD rep and have enjoyed it, and I consider it a little less conspicuous. But if someone asked about one of my reps like the GWSD, I'd admit that it's like a late 70's SD but that I'd built it from parts. Good GWSD's run $9-10K these days, so what's wrong with building a good rep for $500? Reps are a great way for watchaholics to control their addiction w/o going broke or having to get divorced.