alligoat

I agree with wiesn089, 6263 and 6265 have 7mm crown and tube and likewise the 6240 if it has screw-down pushers. I think an Air King Date 5700/5701 may have a 5.3mm tube and crown as well as the 1500 series Date. But some of this is tricky because the 600-602 crowns have 6mm tubes, but late model DJ's with the 603 crown have a 5.3mm tube. And even though you have a 5.3mm tube, the crown will still probably measure around 6mm. A few yearsw ago someone posted the Rolex crown chart which listed which crowns for which models.

The crown guards certainly suck. I can't see the dial so who knows. With 46 feedback, I'd certainly pass.

To remove the bezel, stick a razor between the bezel and the case and basically pop (or pry) the bezel off. You may have to work your way around the case prying til it pops up and off. Same with the crystal retaining ring- place the razor in there between the ring and the case, you may have to tap the razor in w/ your small jewelers hammer. Once again, may have to work your way around the case. If the crystal doesn't come right off, same procedure. Be careful with the razor, it can be deadly. You'll need a crystal press to reinstall. Some CN 1680 reps may not have a gen like construction, but you still have to pop the bezel, etc.

Here you go P4GTR This was just an economy build like yours. I like the black GMT bezel, old style tritium markers and the chinese 21j is working well. One of those watches where if you tear it up, who cares, on to the next beater...

Heck, I wear mine in public, who gives a darn! You got to remember 99.99% of the people could care less.

At $100 it looks like a good deal to me, unless it has an asian 21j! I do like the droop of the crown guards and it's not everyday that you find an untouched case with the bevel on the lugs. But alas, Ronin is right, where is the pic of the HE valve? Oh well, I sure do hate it when it's too good to be true! Edit: I forgot that the bezel in the watch pics doesn't match the bezel in the SN and Model # pics. Can you believe this yahoo would steal some pics?

I agree with Ronin, those cg's and crown look a little suspect. And as Freddy always says, buy the seller first. If you don't know the guy, be careful. Better pics are a must.

It's the usual suspects type of deal- Yuki, NDTradingcorp and Jewelryandwatch: Yuki didn't have anything, NDT had a color change which looks decent http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=104 and I didn't get to J&W Ingod44 on ebay shows up from time to time- haven't seen him recently And another dealer in HCMC, Viet Nam has it also http://www.vintagewatchesmq.com/enlarger.php?id=425

I'm thinking a 2836-2 might work, assuming the movement in there originally was the Rolex 3030, or maybe a 3000. You're really going just have to give it a try. A 2824-2 would be your other option.

I'm kinda like Freddy on this- a gen movement would take you all the way to a top notch franken. If you could find a movement for $1250-1500, you wouldn't have to buy a gen 1675 later. You could put a set of aftermarket hands on til you found a nice set of gens. Likewise the bezel. And I do like the faded black insert you already have.

A dial from Yuki would be easy enough http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6380817/6203058.htm But you really need to check with our buddy M, he's the best judge of Explorer dials. Maybe he might even have a spare...

Yep, they're 5500's and had a 1530/1520 non chronometer movement. Typically said 'Precision' on the dial at the bottom, instead of SCOC or the older OCC. The 1016 (36mm)would have had a 1560/1570 movement- chronometer grade.

It fits, but it won't align w/ the DW. Been there, done that. I bought a T-12 and turned my 6694 into a MKII Explorer I Unfortunately the MKII dials are no longer available, but you could get a Yuki 5500 Explorer dial and build a nice Explorer rep with the case and a T-12.

The 6508 is an Oyster Perpetual. Apparently there is a mis-print referring to it as a Submariner. Submariner models are 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6536-1, 6538, 6538A, 5508, 5510, 5512, 5513, etc. 6538 and 5510 are big crown subs.

I like that Vintage Raven, Chris! Nice find.

Nice pic PM! Look how well worn the bezel and crown are. Obviously that watch has never been to an RSC! Either that or it got caught in a Sahara dust storm.

Nice comparison M! You had me sold on the 10times or 20times less part!

I bought a 16800/16610 bezel from them but it was aftermarket- can't remember how it was advertised- I don't think they said it was gen, but they might have alluded to it. If you have a set of gen hands to compare with and the a and e hands don't match, I'd send them back and say they don't match.

Possibly. When I wind it up and reset the time it will run for an hour or so, then it (hour and minute)stops but the seconds hand keeps going. Watchmaker here I come.

Oops! Looks like the reset pusher on the Daytona is a little out of whack. I happen to have one of those myself(pusher) that got damaged in shipping a couple of weeks ago! That sub looks loverly.

If I were to get one, it would be this one, http://www.1-pc8838.com/rlsv01017-vintage-1680-white-subalternative-swiss-2846-p-8533.html I'd plan on spending $75-100 to service the 2846, put a gen crown on it and trim the cg's and then beat the you know what out of it.

The complete assembly for $159 has worked for Chiman and Rolexaddict in building early 1675's using the 1655 Explorer case from Josh. As for the bezel alone working on an existing crystal retention ring, God only knows.

Good point freddy. This was more like when I was advancing the minute and hour hands with the crown and the GMT hand was just 'slip siding away'. At times the minute and hour hand would be turning and the GMT wouldn't even move at all. The watch was going this morning but stopped around 10:30- second hand still ticking. I have spare 150 & 90 hands, may have a temp GMT- 2.0mm, I believe. But I see a trip to the watchmaker for a looksee. I just hate sending stuff back to China. But I knew going in that the 2846 was a risk. One with 17 jewels could easily be 25-30 years old- in fact, it might be a plain 2846, no -1 or -2 after the 2846- like I say, the engraving was hardly legible.

Boy, you sure have to hope it's the 3.0mm x .35 tap which is standard for all of the 6mm and 7mm tubes.

When I bought this watch Chi, I pretty much figured I was buying a dial, movement and bezel assembly. If you took the slope out of the rehaut, the dial wouldn't fit in the case. The lugholes could maybe be fixed of sorts- slope the top edges over- round over so to speak- which would also thin the lugs some and maybe file the undersides- probably the whole bottom edge. But the lughole drilling is inconsistent- 2 of 4 are halfway decent, the other two are problematic. You could beat up this case and maybe use it for a 7922, but you'd need a crystal. And I haven't got into the bezel/crystal retention ring assembly yet. It could be another PT nightmare w/ the plastic gasket thrown in there,... will take it apart tonight! I noticed Yuki has the 6542 case available again- but I don't know if i'm ready to drop $500+ yet.