alligoat

The dial is only for a 1570 if you insist on using the dial feet. But you can cut the dial feet off and glue the dial to an eta movement. No big deal.

For the gen, it's a C2.

I'm thinking it's just B25-295-C2. There's two different gasket sizes, 1 and 2. 1 is on like a datejust, 2 is a sub. C is the cyclops, and 295 is the lower diameter of the crystal.

Beautiful job Chi! I love that silver dial w/ black subdials and the silver bezel, case and bracelet. It makes a beautiful statement, congrats.

Very nice! I like the gen pearl and the WM9 dial. Enjoy your new watch.

I agree with wiesn089, 6263 and 6265 have 7mm crown and tube and likewise the 6240 if it has screw-down pushers. I think an Air King Date 5700/5701 may have a 5.3mm tube and crown as well as the 1500 series Date. But some of this is tricky because the 600-602 crowns have 6mm tubes, but late model DJ's with the 603 crown have a 5.3mm tube. And even though you have a 5.3mm tube, the crown will still probably measure around 6mm. A few yearsw ago someone posted the Rolex crown chart which listed which crowns for which models.

The crown guards certainly suck. I can't see the dial so who knows. With 46 feedback, I'd certainly pass.

To remove the bezel, stick a razor between the bezel and the case and basically pop (or pry) the bezel off. You may have to work your way around the case prying til it pops up and off. Same with the crystal retaining ring- place the razor in there between the ring and the case, you may have to tap the razor in w/ your small jewelers hammer. Once again, may have to work your way around the case. If the crystal doesn't come right off, same procedure. Be careful with the razor, it can be deadly. You'll need a crystal press to reinstall. Some CN 1680 reps may not have a gen like construction, but you still have to pop the bezel, etc.

Here you go P4GTR This was just an economy build like yours. I like the black GMT bezel, old style tritium markers and the chinese 21j is working well. One of those watches where if you tear it up, who cares, on to the next beater...

Heck, I wear mine in public, who gives a darn! You got to remember 99.99% of the people could care less.

At $100 it looks like a good deal to me, unless it has an asian 21j! I do like the droop of the crown guards and it's not everyday that you find an untouched case with the bevel on the lugs. But alas, Ronin is right, where is the pic of the HE valve? Oh well, I sure do hate it when it's too good to be true! Edit: I forgot that the bezel in the watch pics doesn't match the bezel in the SN and Model # pics. Can you believe this yahoo would steal some pics?

I agree with Ronin, those cg's and crown look a little suspect. And as Freddy always says, buy the seller first. If you don't know the guy, be careful. Better pics are a must.

It's the usual suspects type of deal- Yuki, NDTradingcorp and Jewelryandwatch: Yuki didn't have anything, NDT had a color change which looks decent http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=104 and I didn't get to J&W Ingod44 on ebay shows up from time to time- haven't seen him recently And another dealer in HCMC, Viet Nam has it also http://www.vintagewatchesmq.com/enlarger.php?id=425

I'm thinking a 2836-2 might work, assuming the movement in there originally was the Rolex 3030, or maybe a 3000. You're really going just have to give it a try. A 2824-2 would be your other option.

I'm kinda like Freddy on this- a gen movement would take you all the way to a top notch franken. If you could find a movement for $1250-1500, you wouldn't have to buy a gen 1675 later. You could put a set of aftermarket hands on til you found a nice set of gens. Likewise the bezel. And I do like the faded black insert you already have.

A dial from Yuki would be easy enough http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6380817/6203058.htm But you really need to check with our buddy M, he's the best judge of Explorer dials. Maybe he might even have a spare...

Yep, they're 5500's and had a 1530/1520 non chronometer movement. Typically said 'Precision' on the dial at the bottom, instead of SCOC or the older OCC. The 1016 (36mm)would have had a 1560/1570 movement- chronometer grade.

It fits, but it won't align w/ the DW. Been there, done that. I bought a T-12 and turned my 6694 into a MKII Explorer I Unfortunately the MKII dials are no longer available, but you could get a Yuki 5500 Explorer dial and build a nice Explorer rep with the case and a T-12.

The 6508 is an Oyster Perpetual. Apparently there is a mis-print referring to it as a Submariner. Submariner models are 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6536-1, 6538, 6538A, 5508, 5510, 5512, 5513, etc. 6538 and 5510 are big crown subs.

I like that Vintage Raven, Chris! Nice find.

Nice pic PM! Look how well worn the bezel and crown are. Obviously that watch has never been to an RSC! Either that or it got caught in a Sahara dust storm.

Nice comparison M! You had me sold on the 10times or 20times less part!

I bought a 16800/16610 bezel from them but it was aftermarket- can't remember how it was advertised- I don't think they said it was gen, but they might have alluded to it. If you have a set of gen hands to compare with and the a and e hands don't match, I'd send them back and say they don't match.

Possibly. When I wind it up and reset the time it will run for an hour or so, then it (hour and minute)stops but the seconds hand keeps going. Watchmaker here I come.

Oops! Looks like the reset pusher on the Daytona is a little out of whack. I happen to have one of those myself(pusher) that got damaged in shipping a couple of weeks ago! That sub looks loverly.