If you see Kay

Ahhhhh another one joins the club!!!! Welcome!! Still have to work on the lug drilling on mine. Doesn't look as good as I want it too yet.

Not too many naked bikes in that CC range, as most start at the 600 cc level. (I'm talking about the north american market), don't know what the Asian market is like. You could try the DRZ400sm, but that is a totally different bike. Then there is the Suzuki GS500, but there's a big love/hate relationship with those. again, both Suzuki.

Those are three excellent choices that came to mind before I could finish reading your post. I have a Suzuki Bandit. I also like the VStroms as well or the SV650N's. All Suzuki, though.

she's awesome!!!! love those baby blues

Possible your package was lost. I sent something back in the summer of last year and the recipient still hasn't received it. It went to Germany for repairs. I figure it got lost in the mail. I gave up on that watch and just moved on. I suggest you do the same too. No use giving up a hobby just because of lack of information.

panerai153: where did you get your datewheel overlay?????????

While Stilty movement rings are what members prefer, you don't necessarily have to go with him. There are other suppliers of movement rings. Ebay it and someone called raffles-time sells a metal movement ring. You can even go for plastic, but many franken builders might shun that.

I want to know how easy is it if I purchase an aftermarket sapphire Rollie cyrstal with a proper 2.5x cyclops on it and have the cyclops removed and then repositioned to fit the ETA datewindow location? I know Uwe used to sell just the 2.5x cyclops on blank sapphires, and I actually got him to do one for me, only to have the goods get lost in the mail. I'm wondering how easy (or difficult is this task). I've seen Uwe's tutorial on removing the cyclops with a blow torch, and seen UV glue in action but have never attempted any of this myself.

I've got a gen 555 endlink jubilee bracelet and it looks like the first pic shown in AmStaFF's link.

what do you mean when you say the stem doesn't line up 100% (btw, I have a 2836-1 movement I plan on using - yes, a -1 not a -2) on a 16000 case.

On my local sportbike forum we call them douchecati's

I think I know which one it is too. By the way, if it is the 1225 movement, and you have to set the time, get ready to start winding, alot. It is not quick set or semi-quick set. It is the full blown slow set, meaning two full revolutions to advance one day.

what's wrong with the ones you picked up from Angus for the sample image? btw, you willing to sell one???

the 6694's had a slow beat movement in them. I wouldn't swap it out for an ETA high beat. In fact I'd do the opposite.

From Silix: (Note: the case is slightly larger than the gen 34mm as the dial is about 27.9mm to 28mm in size, which is the DJ dial size. The datewheel is the sheeeetz, and the date mag in not correct either. from Yukiwatch: (apparently from the description, it is 34mm)

yeah, $53 is a bit steep, considering that he most likely gets them on the cheap. I wish I knew CAD too, but apparently someone is working on a Hublot or AP datewheel overlay somewhere on the other forum.

The DJ linen dial is the best IMHO

Is it true that the 2836 has a taller cannon pin than the 2824 and hence a better movement to use when a date is involved? I've had a 2824 movement in a rep 6694 (date), and a 2824 in a rep 1016 too. I know that the 2836 is about .5mm thicker than the 2824, but not sure about the cannon pin heights.

Since when did Andrew start selling dwo's??? I'd love to get my hands on that dwo..

to the OP: I hope you know EXACTLY what he means by this....

hahh, hhhah, yeah,

Can a 2824 work in place of a 2836?

Love the 1016. I'm glad I'm in good company with mine!!!!!

let me know if you want to get rid of your 5th gen dial....