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Justasgood

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Everything posted by Justasgood

  1. Really? Because....
  2. Well.......
  3. Check your PM.....
  4. Nice write up and amusing.....the link is a diver's extension. They come in two sizes. The kits usually provide the long extension (Hence the "L" stamp). Your SD will have a shorter version of this and the kit allows for changing. Skin/Snorkel divers usually leave the original on and Scuba divers wearing wet suits opt for the longer so the watch can be worn over the sleeve of the suit..............I think.
  5. I prefer the NDTrading case. If you look at the area where the "ears" of the endlink rest, you can see the edging/step of the NDT case in the picture here The watch at the bottom with the smooth fold-over is the NDT: As well as at the base of the crown/tube: Now the MBW has only a smooth transition from where the caseback covers to the edging of the case shown here: here are a few more of the NDT. I would say it is like a Channel that that surrounds the caseback: I hope this helps ....
  6. QUOTE you miss the rear case edges and steps You lost me here? Notice the edges and step of case...... and an MBW 5513 back.....
  7. I love Tudor watches.... Good luck with your project, Kurt.
  8. My dials fit perfect....no mods needed. The 1680 needs to be brought down a mm to fit.
  9. Yep.....only Gen's....T-19 for the 5513 , T-127 for the 1680 and T-39 for the "Dweller
  10. With an eye towards warmer days.....
  11. Well, I am glad our talk wasn't a waste of time.........I swear, I'll hunt you down and take a hammer to what ever abomination you build with that GMT movement............Seriously, I will......
  12. I did this mod by using a very fine grit paper, gloves(no prints on the dial) and I gently rotated the rim of the dial and test fit until it worked........use care and be willing to spend a lot of time. Someone here has the 1680 I modded with the Gen dial.....I believe it is Chieftang
  13. The 501B endlinks are on my 1680 now. The 5513 has a Gen 93150 with 580's......old pic, sorry. The 501B's came from my Gen 14060M........watch head sold, Bracelet sold without endlinks at buyer's request. Now as for where I got the bracelet so cheap......lots-O-patience and searching
  14. So here is the ridiculous cost of my project: Dial and hands Gen and NOS: $550.00 Case from NDT: $950.00 Gen 1560 Movement donated from 1963 Rolex Oyster: $800.00 Gen NOS bezel and insert including crystal retention ring: $250.00 Gen T-19 Crystal: $40.00 Gen crown/tube $60.00 Gen Bracelet w/580 end pieces: $200.00 Gen spring bars: $10.00 Gen caseback gasket: $2.00 Movement serviced assembled and cased by my watchmaker: $free Total: $2862.00 I'd buy another NDT case if I had the ca$h. My watckmaker was quite impressed with the overall quality and finish as well as the ease of pullin my All Gen 5513 together. Not to mention that dealing with Natalie was a great experience. Peace!
  15. Gen for comparison: Actually.........I would leave them as is.
  16. Inside CG's look o.k. You need to tke a litttle of the outside where the lugs curve into the cg. Nice work.
  17. Aquarius.....Thirsty?
  18. Amen and Amen! Well said and my approach as well.
  19. Pfan.......I've always liked the way that dial turned out..........nice skins
  20. Good work Marty. A little cleaning up of the inside of the CG's and you are set. Nice Gen clasp as well. The Lugs look good and could probably use a little more polishing to clean up the bevel. Nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Wear them well. Kurt.
  21. Only here can my dream watch be outdone by some gnarley Toes
  22. 'nuq, I figured you would like it.
  23. Just thought I'd share
  24. If you don't countersink, the tube/crown will have a gap at the case. A small gap is common, but not countersinking will leave a very pronounced gap. Gasket or gasket sealant if properly applied will serve yuor needs. it's the aesthetics you need to choose.
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