Jkay

Too many to choose from

Two versions here

Hmm!! OK, I'll take your word on this

Way-Hey! Work which is fun is good work!

Good catch!

You need a VC Overseas, white dial.

Ok there are code words some dealers use for the crystals .. ready? Mineral Glass - glass. it scratches very easily. Synthetic Sapphire crystal - glass! it scratches very easily. Sapphire Crystal - almost as hard as diamonds. prolly won't scratch, ever. --- As for buying an inexpensive genuine watch? Your call. I buy reps because I love watches, but refuse to pay $8500 for a stainless steel diver's watch.

Welcome! Yes please post pics, but not in this HELLO post .. people will not see the pics if you put hem here

I suppose that all depends upon how tight you can make it with your fingers

Yay, I'm Super and I post stuff. What's that triggered at, 1400 posts?

If it's a real Swiss quartz movement or a real Japanese Miyota quartz movement then expect years of happiness. Just change the batteries! I can't comment on the build quality of the actual watch body. I meant to say this in my previous post but completely forgot: ALL reps, except those hand-inspected by a trusted modder, have a high percentage chance of having something wrong with them. Why? Because there is no quality control in replica factories. None. They build them and package them in the same motion. No checks, no care .. nothing. Never fool yourself about this. Always ask your rep dealer to email you photos of your watch so that you may OK it before shipment. You want to see it, before it goes in the box. believe me.

Someone here once said .. finger tight, then 1/4 turn further with a tool "should do it"

Just a shot in the dark here, and maybe a stupid suggestion, but you know that a21j only winds in 1 direction, right? Is your watch winder spinning the correct way?

Well first let me say that there is a wealth of information here in this Community. As you read more and more you will learn 10x more than you thought was possible about our hobby. Next, let me try and answer your questions: Always shop around. Just because 1 dealer wants (for instance) $240 for a swiss-engine Noobmariner does not mean that another dealer does not have the same watch for $140. Every "trusted" dealer is able to set their own prices. Shop Around. There are several different common watch movements you see in reps .. "mystery" movements are the lowest quality. Who knows where they come from? Then you have the Asian 21j series. Reliable work-horses and cheap! Seagull movements .. a real factory makes these, not chinese elves .. I'd place them as better then A21j. Next, ETA clone movements .. chinese made movements which are exact copies of Swiss movements. They can be very good but are probably quite dirty inside and need a good service when you get them. Lastly we have real Swiss ETA watch movements. They don't cost as much as you think, are as reliable as you would expect and also probably need to be serviced immediately, since they are kept in unsanitary conditions in the rep factories. In a nutshell, one legitimate reason for price differences is which movement you pick to be inside of your watch! Many offer a choice. I know that the popular new Rolex Explorer II replica comes in 3 movements and 2 lume colors. They are priced widely depending on your own choices. Some models offer the SAME watch body no matter which movement you select. Other models have cheaper watch bodies to match the cheap movement you select .. this is falling out of popularity, tho, as more dealers are bragging that they offer the same high quality body no matter which engine you choose. The last thing Im going to mention here is that often a style of watch will be offered from different factories simultaneously. The Rolex DeepSea has at least 3 popular variants. The Planet Ocean has the same ... $100 for a nice POrikaa 42mm with Asia 21j movement or $250 for a full blown Ultimate PO 45mm with swiss movement. To sum up - 3 things determine the price you pay for a replica: Movement, case accuracy/quality, and lastly, the profit margins set by the dealer you are speaking with.

Bring it to a watch kiosk in your local Mall .. the person working there should be able to eyeball the space and fit the right cell. A Gen ladies J12 is quartz anyway, so there should be no raised eyebrows at all.

Yes, I will add that I have never held a newer "316f" model watch next to an older model. here, tho, is my Cape Cod cloth after one use on a clean watch ... there is a lot more black oxidation on your watch than you think. Both sides are black

Different grades of 316 .. that's all. 316L has more molybdenum in it, and theoretically is slightly darker. The trouble here is that in China, steel factories commonly lie about what they are selling you. Beyond that, our "316L" watches commonly have a 440ss caseback .. soooo .. why trust what anyone says about steel color and content? There are too many lies in the supply chain to accept anything at face value, especially where YOUR money is involved.

From the main DSSD page at rolex.com .... Flat topped triangle. and BY GOSH you are right about the tickmarks .. how I've always missed that, I do not know.

The DSSD rep HEV is designed backwards. It will let water rush inward. At the very least fill it with epoxy from the inside. I do not know if the gen HEV will fit.

Where are you going to wear this watch? Are you a more normal person or an Executive business man? Do you go camping in the woods or drink mixed drinks on your yacht? All these things matter It seems to me that you are looking for a dress-watch but not TOO dressy .. so how about a Vacheron Constantine Overseas in a white dial? VC's website uses FLASH so I can't copy their image here .. so click here to see it

The problem with the noobfactory (bk) DSSDs is the curved-top bezel insert triangle. Yes, they fixed their |10 | but they forgot the big triangle kk - your question about color is a common one. Your computer monitor and the digital camera used to take the photos and the lights the photographer used ALL add up to change the colors of anything in the picture. You can't tell subtle color differences in a digital picture. It's not possible. So relying on a picture is not a good thing. Also .. not many people understand this but the SS watch you get is caked in oxidation. Does SS rust? No .. not under conditions you find on the surface of the Earth but it does form a layer of black oxidation! I wiped down my clean DSSD yesterday with a polishing cloth. Here is the cloth. -- It was clean when I started -- Both sides look this black. Wipe your watches with SS polishing clothes and be amazed at their proper white brightness.

I don't know your price range, but we happen to have a watchsmith here in the Forum who builds beautiful IWC watches from combinations of real parts and replica parts. Look for user name Concepta if you have a big wallet. Here is the area for the replica dealers -Watches, clothing, shoes, luggage, jewelry-

Even a simple rub with Cape Cod and a quick wash will make dull 316L white and bright. The most practical conclusion is that without a lab analysis of BOTH watch cases and bracelets, it's all up to the eye of the beholder. Beware of the Emperor's New Clothes ... such a human trap to fall into.

As a wise man once said "WM9/BK for the perfect Sub and a lot of cash or Noobfactory's NoobMariner for the next-best Sub and a little cash." Ask yourself how perfect you want it. Know that a Noobmariner was posted to one of the top Genuine watch forums recently and fooled everyone.

I have seen this question many times, and have wondered myself. Just a few moments ago I was re-assembling my porikaa and didn't get it quite right, so when I tried to wind it, the hands spun freely as the spring was powered up. For the record ... the minute hand moves 1hr 10mins for every revolution of the stem in winding position The seconds hand spins so quickly, it can not be seen! So there you have it .. about 70 minutes of reserve for 1 revolution of the crown, when hand-winding.