praetor

:Jumpy: :Jumpy: love that dial

Sorry I don't have any better cameras, that's the best I can do. Featuring: MKIII 1:1 font Plastic crystal Alarm function Actually Superlative Chronometer non glowing non-existent luminova. Printed @ Staples for 54 cents,but their quality sucks though I need to buy a better printer. And maybe change that 3 o'clock marker to a faux date window? hmm. here's the finished image & the image over the template I used:

It's like science really, you can't prove anything, but only disprove. And in order to disprove, there just have to be one "small" thing that's wrong with it. A rep is a rep, the only way there are no "tells" is to go with gen parts.

Good suggestion on eliminating the date. The reason I'm doing this is that this project has a lot of potential... I'm going to get a print shop (staples) to print it in colour, like 50cents a piece and they make transparencies @ $1 a print. Or I might go to a dial refinisher and "refinish" a dial bought of ebay or something. @Dizzy, thanks a lot. But trust me, I've tried using the GWSD dial. The font, although very similar has quite a few differences. I used a lot of pictures from the antiquorum and doubleredseadweller.com. But only antiquorum is high res enough to make a tracing out of. Notice in gens compared to yours, the gen has a pointy tail in the "S" of the OYSTER or a flat S, whereas Mark 4 - GWSD is pretty much curvy S. Also there's a bit of a gap between "E" and "R", I'm not sure why they have this, but if there's a mistake I pretty much have to replicate it. Making a dial like this will make you a WIS in the DRSD MK3 department. Oddly enough, the only high res pictures I found that has a complete oyster (in hodinkee), I doubt it's genuine because, of all 7-8 other DRSD mark III, this one has thicker font than the rest. Here's a comparison shot: Notice that the antiquorum one (single example) has a curvy L in ROLEX. I realize I'm asking too much. I'm sorry.

genuine has a silver metallic sheen to the overall paintjob whereas my v2 was basically plastic. It's easy to change it yourself, you just need bezel assembly instructions and a dull knife (I saran wrapped the knife to prevent scratches). Here's my V2 on gen insert the second problem is that gen bezel insert doesn't fit properly on rep bezel. rep bezel insert is thinner than gen. So in order to get recessed insert, you have to sand the genuine down a lot. I was too lazy, so i just sanded mine down halfway.

I posted this on RG. I'm doing this project where I took scans of genuine dials and make a vector file using adobe illustrator so that I can print it and put it on my alarm clock =). but I need help regarding the font, especially with the "ER" in "OYSTER" font and the "A" in "PERPETUAL", which I had to completely make from scratch because people keep posting watches @ 10:08. Do you think it's too thin? fat? not curvy enough? Also I think that the S in "OYSTER" is too fat. What do you think? All help is appreciated Thanks :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Yea I have a bit of OCD, but watch weight isn't one of them. But I believe it's either due to the extra links or the placebo effect. You expect expensive watches to be "heavier" so thus, when you knowingly try a gen, it's heavier.

unless you can detect the difference in 3-5 grams, I doubt it.

Rep? it looks as if the crown is too big & bezel teeth has the wrong shape (too short). looks so good tho :wub:

maybe if you dream hard enough these watches will come true

Depends on the strength: (lowest to highest) 1)use alcohol/acetone (might dissolve the rubber gasket though) 2)use sandpaper with polishing paste* *if mineral crystal, you'd need to buy crystal polish to buff out the scratches afterward.

loosely for diving like Jacques?

Right there with you with some failed fishing action:

Mind you, the differences in font is very subtle and I've picked it up after owning a v2 after about 2 months. The A in wm9 dials are pointy vs flat in gens (for Z series anyways), that's one of the difference that you can only pick up without a loupe. WM9 is clearly trying to replicate a Z series case or later, judging by the "wokkiness" of the rehaut. In gen F series or earlier, you can sort of tell that it's more wokky than Z. So with those two pieces of information, it's a rep, a darn good one. Of course, with a loupe, there are a lot more differences..but yea, not recommended if you're obsessed with it.

I can tell that's a v3/v2 dial by looking at the A in "OFFICIALLY" Nevertheless, that's a nice rep. Great SEL fitting, nice gen insert.

is that hand drawn?

Thanks, what city is he in?

at least you're not this guy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170514431242&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT claimed to be an X series (i.e. year 1993) - wrong box - wrong bracelet - wrong CG? (pics too shitty) - wrong crystal? - lugs look funny. - bracelet look funny. - shitty clasp - shitty watch - tons of noobs bidding.

v2 on a nato strap.

wow, quite surprised. Something else I've found, they use fake alligator straps on Baselworld. Take note gen owners. 2:31 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brIUiVtGt6Q

that's a really nice pearl you got there. There's something off about the insert though, the neatness of the markers. what did you mod? - shave the CG? - shave the insert to recess? - change crystal to 2.5 mag? - change the DW? - sand the engraving off the rehaut? nice work.

That's a rep! just kidding...O_O for 200k, I think this Patek is better (IMHO) ref 3448 http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?intObjectID=5130778 or this one ref 5396

^ agreed. Gen uses an in house movement with a 7 days power reserve. I was researching this watch and it turns out that it has too many flaws to satisfy my obsessiveness and doesn't have the capability to be modded much: 1) Date wheel wrong color 2) Subdial spacing; needs to be further apart. 3) date window position; needs to go down a bit 4) hands look flat (maybe just dealer picture) I think the regulateur is a nice substitute for this watch, maybe someday

That's a v3, the v2 bezel has its angle (top) slope down too much. Btw, how do you tell if your insert snapped in securely? my gen insert snapped but isn't recessed in the bezel.