ubiquitous

Regardless of nomenclature and semantics, I think it's one fantastic looking watch, K! A beauty!

bluebite- DW is another option as he makes a V72 case as well. Less expensive, but a little less refined. Should still get the job done and there are several members who have built gorgeous 6263/5's using this case! Only drawback is that sometimes it take a little more work to get things to fit right...

I agree with Stephane- Start with the two hardest parts to procure and then work your way down from there. That first step is the dial. A no-date 7016 or 9401/0 dial can be pretty tricky to find, as most available are usually the 7021 or 9411 date model dials. They're out there, but they don't come up often. Best thing to do is to just keep on a diligent search. The second step is to get the line on a nice set of hands. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a set of matched dial and hands sold as a package. Doesn't always happen that way, but in some cases it's possible. Once you have the dial and hands, you'll want to find a nice 2783/4 movement; for a no-date, you might also consider finding a 2461 or 2776 for the 7016 and 9401/0 respectively (as those are the correct calibers to use), however these are not always easy to procure in good working order. The 2783/4 with date removed works just as well and can be had at watch material houses like Ofrei for under $60. Next course of business is to address the case- In my experience, I've found that MBW cases work well. They're not the most ideal as these are based off of Sub rep cases for the 5513 and 1680 and lack the neat Tudor engraving on the caseback (along with correct sized wrench recess, incorrect engraving at 12:00 and 6:00). To me, it's a moot point; I don't really look at the backs of these things anyways, and so it doesn't matter. If you want yours to be 100% correct on the outside, you may want to go with a Phong case, albeit a bit more expensive. Once you have decided on a case, you'll need a T-19 crystal, good quality bezel insert (gen is best, in my opinion) and a gen crown and tube. If you are going with an MBW case, have the lugs drilled and CG's shaped for better results. Assemble and you're next focus should be on the bracelet. I wear mine on a gen mish-mash of 580 ends, 78360 links and a 93150 clasp. MBW offers a nice hollow link rep bracelet that works great, or you can go the route of the G10 like Lani So... That's my rough outline on how I would approach the project. Hope it helps

If I recall correct, my gen 14270 Explorer dial was around 28mm; the gen 16200 DJ dial it replaced was also 28mm.

That's the spirit, Bob!

Very cool! And a very unique one of a kind... Looking forward to seeing it completed. Very nice tribute indeed...

Hi folks, Personally, I can understand that this sort of stuff takes a while to sort out; assembling people's watches to an exacting and acceptable level of standard and coordinating the shipping, administration etc. for a large scale is absolutely time consuming and lots of busy work involved. There is no doubt about that. I myself have had a single watch of mine assembled, taken apart, reassembled, etc. 20+ times in an effort to get the overall finished product to my personal satisfaction; that's just one watch! Drives me a little crazy, and sometimes it's a week long process for me to sort out all the issues and what not. I call this 'stress testing' the watch (and my patience). However, the thing that strikes me as concerning is the lack of communication to end customers. Sure, multiple emails to every customer + back and forth questions, answers and what not can be a very time consuming endeavor in and of itself, but it really doesn't take long to at least make a blanket post to all participating members/customers with an update on status. That takes but a few moments to do and can put a lot of people at ease about their watches; most just want to know that something is being done, and the lack of communication makes for anxious individuals. So, while I have never personally worked with this individual and know nothing about him, I don't really have much else to offer except for the observation above. For folks who have asked me if I offer mod services and wonder why I usually decline- This is exactly why! I barely have enough time to do my own stuff, and oft times, I piss myself off as a customer. I know better than to subject my friends here on RWG to that kind of stuff Cheers, R

Very well done! And blu-tack and/or rodico to hold the watch up! I love it! May have to give that a try as well Your pics are always stunning...

So, what you guys are saying is that it might be a while before I find one, then? Good thing I'm patient. Kind of. Okay, not really

Great pair of Oysters there! Definitely some keepers...

'EE' is the nomenclature used to identify this particular case/movement/product combo as offered by a specific individual from the old TRC days (ExtraExtra). Not really a dealer per se, but he had insight into certain offerings and made those unique items available to forum members...

kruz- I think you have one of the few examples of mystery movements that can go the distance. And, you have one of the original first run DWs as well. That makes it even more rare in it's own right

Man, that Fricker... THAT is a thing of beauty, K!

mrandazzo- You can always try an old DW V72 case! Shouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as Phong's, though it might require some massaging to get the movement to fit right. Or, if you're on a budget, go for a DW with Mystery Movement You can always swap in a nice V23 movement and have a Swiss, manual wind 6263/5 for quite a bit less than a full V72 build (only draw back is that the V23 is bi-compax with a dummy hour counter; V72 is of course full tri-compax...). V23 based 6265: As far as I am aware, the EE's were a pretty limited production; the only way to procure these days is to buy from someone who might have one in their collection

(Sorry- I must have missed this particular question last night)... Mostly stated as these are now $50k - $100k watches Anyone who knows what it is will likely be suspiscious of it's nature due to what the watch is, especially since those who own the gens are a pretty tight knit crowd that know each other quite well (an established network of folks who have come to grow close by sharing info of watch characteristics and details in their quest of authenticating, determining numbers in existence, etc). Now, granted, these watches weren't always commanding these high prices- Back in the mid 80's one could buy a tray of them for just a few bucks (I seem to recall 30GBP). A fair number of these went to Asia to be converted to standard 5513 models- Lug bars cut out, lug holes re-drilled, casebacks polished down and dials either replaced or modified to remove the 'T', hands and bezel inserts swapped. Most thought at the time that there was no value in a Mil spec watch (hence the low buy in) and that they had far more value as standard civilian watches. Luckily, most of the 5513/5517 MilSub heavy hitters are in the UK, with others spread out in other countries; the British presence is big since these watches were originally for the MoD and since RSC Bex is really the only center qualified to authenticate. However, the watch is popular enough for most watch enthusiasts to know of it; your average individual who isn't into watches will likely not give it a second look. There is always that off chance that you may bump into someone who knows what that watch is

I think he's looking for a spacer/case ring to fit the movement inside the case. Fit/compatibility will depend on the movement you are starting with, and the movement you are changing to. For what it's worth, old vintage Rolex (and vintage watches in general) had slow beat movements anyway (e.g. 19800bph); changing to a high beat 28800bph ETA or similar movement would technically be incorrect if you have, say a 1680 Submariner...

If you're interested in building a 6263/5, I'd suggest going with a Phong case and pair it with a nice V72 movement. Depending how far you want to take it, you can add a gen dial/hands, etc. Should turn out nicely with the right ingredients!

Probably best not to discuss shipping methods, experiences and specific particulars on the open public forum. Might I suggest taking advice from others via private message instead?

You got it! Coool! Did you also get the snowflake one too?

Lani- I wear my G10's the same way you do on your Snowflake... And my buckle is always offset towards the outer side of my wrist. Sometimes a bit uncomfortable, but I'm getting used to it. As an aside, I will say that I prefer my Blacksteel on the G10. It fits the wrist tighter, feels less top heavy and has less tendancy to flop around/ride up/spin etc.

Ehhh... Well, technically, it's not mine. The original owner sent it to me 3 years ago for a potential engine swap. After searching for a viable candidate to install, the owner vacated the watch scene for other hobbies. No address provided to return; emails were answered sporadically at best and then communication drops off... Some day I'll get it back to him. I just don't know when

MoD hands for the ETA 28xx are out there as well...

Nicely done, as usual, rolli! I do have to wonder where you find the time to wear all your PAMs! Cause you've got a ton of them built and at your selection...

I hope he doesn't mind answering for him... It's lumi... One from my stock...

Whoa. Now there's something you don't see every day! Cool! @Lani... What can I say? Nice choices!