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T - Yeah, I probably should have but it isn't seen when wearing it...

I might as well wear it!

I wonder if a clear polyurethane or clear lacquer was applied to seal it...

Nuthin', same ol' $hit! I was wondering what happened to you when the system wouldn't let me send you a PM. I figured maybe your box was full, or something...

I just did this to prove to myself I could still drill holes where I wanted them! I still need to bevel the ends of the transition links but they're not really seen while "on the wrist".

The contrast between the DLC case and the white dial is phenomenal. It would be really bithcin' if the bezel was lumed! I've thought about doing that on one of my old EXP II junkers to see what it would look like...

I took a break from a somewhat vexing project today to relax a little so I decided to attach a Tudor signed vintage style clasp to complete this fantasy Tudor's illusion. The AP clasp arrangement it pretty slick, and I thought seriously about just gluing a Tudor shield onto it, ala Daytona flip-lock, but it looked like it would be easy to bump and unlatch so it had to go. As the clasps were different widths and nothing lined up it would be necessary to machine some "transition pieces" to hook everything together. I first cut a chunk of 1/8" stainless the proper size and clamped it into the milling vise and "squared it up" and brought it to it's finished size: I machined it to .400" x .582". For all of you metric guys, sorry, but as a machinist I think in thousandths of an inch! I then clamped it back in the vise and used an edge finder to locate the l/h edge. All layout measurements would be made from this edge. This is the finished slot that will go toward the clasp: Here is a test fitting to make sure I machined the slot size adequately: I then flipped the transition link over, located the l/h edge, and proceeded to mill the notches on the band side. The mid links on the band will mate into these notches: At this point the machining of the link was complete and all that remained was to de-burr it with a fine file and locate and drill the pin holes. Holes are really easy to locate and drill with precision when you are starting with a clean fresh piece of metal. The first step is to clamp it back up and use the edge finder to locate the l/h end and the rear edge. The table is cranked in the Y axis the proper distance to place the center drill in the exact center (.0625" in this case) and over in the X axis (.050" for these holes) and the hole is "pecked" with a center drill. The table is again moved in the X axis to the second hole where it is "pecked". After the holes had been located and "pecked" the center drill is removed and the proper drill bit is installed. I decided on a .050" hole is this was very close to the hole size in the AP links. At this point the pin holes are drilled: This completes one transition link and I repeated these steps to make the second one. I then chucked up some 2mm SS rod in the lathe and turned a short section down to about .052" - .053". I won't bore you with lathe shots of doing this as it is really a "yawner"... After the pin stock was made I then pressed the pins into the transition links and band, filed the pins flush with the links, and the job was finished. Here's my fantasy case with Rep Tudor Prince Date dial, AP Royal Oak band (thanks again, Ubi! ), and rep vintage style Tudor clasp. Even though this watch has quite a few boo-boos and other defects I quite like it and I can only hope the next will be easier and better executed. Thanks for following along with me on this "road less traveled" and I hope you enjoy the finished product...

Bitchin', K!!!

Nice clean looking watch.

Ronin, my God, it may be the camera angle or lens choice but it looks like you are wearing an alarm clock!! How big IS that!!??

Again, keeping with no-date theme. I can see from pic that I need to treat this to a new insert some day! It's been pried off so many times I guess it's bent just a bit and it's not flat anymore... Oh well, it still keeps excellent time!

Someday I hope to grow up and have a junk box just like Ubi's!

If it runs fine turned out 1/2 turn then the stem needs to be shortened just a bit. It's not that hard if you have a few basic tools and have good mechanical aptitude.

Keeping with my recent no-date obsession I decided to wear this a21j junker today...

Sounds like the stem might to be trimmed just a hair. I've had a21j watches do the same thing... As a test, screw the crown all the way down and then back it off about 1/2 - 1 turn and see if it runs OK.

I'm very glad to see you "come up for air". I, too, was beginning to worry but I figured if there was something serious going on, that was any of our business, Ubi would let us know. Hurry up and get you a$$ back here! It's been somewhat, umm, lackluster without you!

K, I'll see if I can find your address...

Time to "stick a fork" in this project. After a bit of brainstorming with Ubi (actually, he did most of the brainstorming) it was decided that an AP Royal Oak band would look pretty good. He took some measurements and I confirmed it was exactly the right size for this case so the band went in the mail. Milling the "slots" into the case went pretty uneventful but when I was drilling the case for the attachment pins my clamping fixture slipped on one hole and when I was drilling all the way through case and band (for alignment) on the other end the drill bit snapped! Not having any way to get this bit out the watch now has one band lug pin which is a broken drill bit and I have one "tab" which sits recessed from the surface and has a "munch mark" on it... But, this whole exercise was meant to be a learning experience and that it was! This project will probably stop at this point other than maybe trying to figure out how to graft in a Tudor clasp and finishing the "rough brushing" on the band. Here are a couple final pics: Thanks for all of the kind words and encouragement in the other two threads and tagging along with me on this odyssey! Here's hoping I remember mistakes and the next one will turn out perfect.

At least you finally got it. I cringe every time somebody insists on shipping to me via UPS. I had a package delivery attempt one day that required a sig and I didn't feel like driving 20 miles to pick it up so I rescheduled the delivery on their web site and took that day off. I waited all day and no re-delivery attempt and customer service on the phone was practically rude. We still finally had to drive to their sort facility (or whatever they call it) and pick it up...

Interesting...

preacher, I'd like to see those same how-tos!

Red, I machined everything but the case-back. The main case is machined from 316 and the bezel is from 303. I'm glad everybody has enjoyed following along and it also benefits me when I outline the operations involved as I often see ways I could do something better or easier the next time! Well, off to my "real" job...

Ubi and I are scheming something up that I think will look rather tasty!

krpstr, I don't care for it. I think the next one will be made from 303! Lathe is a cheap Chinese 9 x 20 with a few "modifications"...

I'm wondering if anybody has ever tried "lapping in" a bezel and associated parts. You could maybe thin some fine valve grinding compound, coat the mating surfaces, assemble, rotate a few times, clean, and test.