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This weekend I'll look and see if I have any I haven't trimmed, I trimmed one the other day but I'm pretty sure I should have one more...

delta, I think the problem with a lot of the rep crowns is that they are too "long" and I think you need one that is slightly larger in diameter, correct? If you just want an overfed 7mm crown I may have one or two (I'll have to look) as I had been planning on trimming them down in the lathe so I didn't toss 'em.

Check ofrei.com, that's where I have purchased flat mineral glass crystals and they're only a couple bucks...

Yes, that is doable!

That's just cool! I wish I knew his trick for putting the balance assembly back on so effortlessly - unless a21j is supposed to be a lot harder...

The Eurotimez 4813 is the "tall canon" version.

Looks very nice, Lani. This factory finally got the case back correct and the pearl doesn't look like some mutant growth! I think this, with a V5 insert, would be about as close as anything could get at this point in time!

Could somebody measure the diameter of the lug "pins" for me? How are they attached, are they slightly tapered and pressed/driven in or is one end threaded? Thogaa, looks much better now, after you got done torturing it the first time it looked a bit scary! You didn't really put it in a dryer with rocks, did you? I can't imagine that - I got into enough trouble curing some exhaust coating on a pair of exhaust manifolds in our oven once upon a time and can't imagine what would happen to me if I ever tried that procedure!

T, you are correct. The a21j I took out of this had a date wheel underneath so I "nicked" the overlay to use on something else... I'm going to order a few more no-date dials and convert a couple of the $50 Subs I have laying around into no-date versions. I know, incorrect but they still have the nice clean simple uncluttered look even if the case and bezel isn't 100% correct... S, it's not so much jerky but I can see it "ticking" at about the same rate as the DG2813 which is making me think more and more that this was a mislabeled DG2813... The date related stuff is pretty easy to yank out and what to remove is pretty self-explanatory once you get the little plate off. Maybe next time I do this I'll take a pic of what to remove. One other nice thing about pulling out all the date related junk is if somebody was really anal it would be easy (I think) to remove the "notch" for the date set position so you only had wind and time set positions. Seems I remember reading about this mod being performed by some because vintage no-dates had only the two positions.

Thanks, T, but the more I stare at this thing's sweep the more I think I went through all of this for a mis-packaged 2813! So, does this mean there are short canon DG2813 movements out in the wild?

The lume looks nice, my V5 has nice blue lume as well and it looks SO cool!

No CGs but I still like! Can't wait to see it finished...

I'll PM ya and we can discuss this...

Jerome, You don't have to wait until you get one to ask questions, then it's too late! Do your research, settle on a dealer you think you might be comfortable with, then decide on the rep. Once you've got this far then post your decision/questions (before ordering) and solicit input. You'll either be applauded for an excellent first choice or flogged and thrown to the wolves for a less than stellar choice! Don't worry, most folks here have had their shots, or so I'm told... Have fun...

P4, they are supposed to be. I have two of them and will be assembling a fantasy watch with one as soon as I find some freakin' hands that fit! All I have are hands that will fit ETA movements, I think... Highoey, does it already have the existing "wimpy" holes? I think I have a couple no-date dials left...

See if you can depress the valve from the outside with something that won't scratch it. My V5 can be depressed from the outside - BAD. As soon as I can get the back off I will glue it shut...

While I was trying to breath life back into my Noobmariner, which only ran for one day, I went on a quest for the cheap high-beat holy grail. After spending as much on DG4813 movements from cousins and ofrei as I did on the original purchase price of the watch I gave up and put in a DG2813 movement - works great! Hopefully the word is out that if you get a DG4813 from anybody other than Eurotimez it will be a short canon movement and it ain't gonna work in anything that you need to glue a date wheel overlay to. Well, all this said and done I wound up with a few movements I figured were pretty much worthless in my world... Enter the no-date Submariner - after drilling lug holes and putting in a tad thicker crystal I sort of got attached to it and wore it daily ( I may be able to clean out the watch drawer sooner than I had thought ) which made me start thinking about maybe putting one of these "worthless" 4813s to good use. The a21j low-beat that was in the watch had a surprisingly smooth sweep, and I had no problem with it, but I just wanted that 28,800 beat that everybody seems to be so fond of so I decided this mad thought was a go. I decided to completely remove all date related junk from the movement - a few gears, date wheel, some springs, etc. I figured if it was date related I saw no reason for it t be bogging down the works. WHen this surgery was completed the dial sat right down on the movement and there was plenty of canon sticking up to press the hands onto. I was starting to get happy! But, if I have learned one thing in the short time I have been messing with watches it's that once you solve one problem you have probably created another. Sure snough, with everything reassembled the movement sat "slanted" in the case due to the assembly's reduced thickness. The l/h side of the dial rested against the rehaut while the r/h side was propped up about .020" but the stem! I was pi$$ed so I tossed it in a drawer for a while. Today I decided to turn a little spacer ring to "shim" back the assembly so things would line up and be level. I made this one ( a quick and dirty proof of concept type piece) out of 6061 aluminum because it machines so easy and I don't have a carbide cutoff tool for my lathe. While on the wrist the spacer is barely noticeable even though I know it's there and I doubt anybody else would notice it under normal circumstances. I may make one out of stainless steel someday if I ever get a carbide insert cutoff tool. Now that I have done all of this was it worth it? In my case, I don't think so. The ofrei DG4813, in my opinion, does not beat at 28,800 and if I look at it I swear I can easily count only 5 ticks per second and a 2813 looks smoother! This might be an ideal movement for a no-date Milsub, or other vintage project that had the real low-beat movement and I may put the cheaper a21j back in here since I had it regulated to 2-3 sec/day! I seem to remember some discussion where others swore they got DG4813 movements that also did not run at 28,800. I have one of my Eurotimez 4813s dialed up and ready to put in another project as soon as I get some gold hands for a21j - my source sent me hands for (I think) a 2836 as the holes in them are too small. Well, here's a couple of pics of the surgery for your viewing pleasure... This shot is pretty blurry but I think you should be able to see how the movement/dial assembly "tilts" to the right: Here's the ring I machined, it's .025" thick: Here is the spacer installed into the case: You should now be able to see that the assembly sits level and the stem slid right in where before it was in quite a bind: As I mentioned while on the wrist the spacer is rather hard to see but you can see it in these close-ups: People also said it sorely needed a new insert and pearl so I insalled a J and K Watches insert that came with a "zit" pearl very similar to that on the old Nobmariners. I gave the pearl the "epoxy treatment" and stuck it on. I think I got about the right "convexity", maybe a tad too much: I have some more bands coming to evaluate from a new "source" I'm cultivating so when I get them I will address my sloppy SEL grinding job by installing a non-SEL band after which I think I will be done with this one and I will likely try to find this one a good home and do another!

The whole washer thing seems a bit extreme...

I don't think I'd seen that particular dial before, sharp! Are the numbers lumed? Looks nice, if lumed how 'bout a shot?

Great looking dial! I also love the Daytona models...

I got my Clark pearl yesterday and had a chance to install it today. I had to slightly enlarge the existing hole in the bezel insert and then set it with clear epoxy. Someone had also mentioned the bezel "teeth" were too sharp so I lightly hit the bezel with the "wheel" and took some of the sharpness off - maybe not enough? I go slow on this stuff as it's always a lot easier to take off a hair more than to try and put a hair back on! I also wore it at work this week so it picked up a couple of scratches here and there. While I had the bezel off I popped the retainer ring and crystal and made some measurements so I can start searching the various forums to try to come up with crystal dimensions to see if I can find a more "rounded" crystal and I think I'll be pretty much satisfied...

Were the riveted bands "options" or standard equipment? I have one and I'm trying to decide what to put it on!

Thanks rosnik, I had a feeling it was not going to be a simple answer!

I have a couple of general questions about various Rolex stainless bands. 1. When was the switch made from the bands with separate end links (non-SEL) to the SEL style? 2. Was there a general model/year/era breakpoint for what models would be correct with a riveted link Oyster band? Thanks!

I think most of the forums have various tutorial on putting the keyless works back right. If you're not confident with a microscop and tweezers than a $15 DG2813 from ofrei might be the best way to go...