jmb

I have built a couple similar to what you are wanting but they are 36mm...

Ho, Ho, Ho...

If you could stand 36mm you might be able to get a cheapo Silix Turn-O-Graph and build something out of it...

Dang! You shoulda said something...

The rep (and gen) Tudor 34mm cases will directly take a T12 crystal so I don't think any of the available bezels would fit. I toyed with the idea some time back and decided it would be more work than it was worth to just satisfy my curiosity! Gettin' lazy in my old age...

That's the correct size for a gen tube, the "Athaya" tubes I've installed used the odd-ball thread I listed above.

Then, the odd-ball tap was over $30 from the ONLY source I could find...

I'm making a tool like Bubba Darth showed above and might be able to do it, eventually. It's about half finished, like a lot of my other projects...

The "Athaya" crown has an odd-ball thread, at least the ones I've installed have have had it - something like M3 x .3, I had a very hard time finding a tap for it...

I would think a rep case would fit, but I've never tried.

My quest continues... Finally had time to transplant the guts from my daily-wear 1016 to one of my newly re-machined cases. This is the case I normally use except it has had the lug tops CNC re-contoured and lug holes re-located. I used wso990 (Mr. Slimeball) 580 end pieces and "shortened" StarTime springbars. Dial is an old MBW and it is powered by an ETA 2783. All-in-all I like how it turned out. I have further plans for this case with hopefully a case-back that has Switzerland spelled correctly and the correct reference number. I have ordered a batch of cases with sterile case-backs and hopefully I might be able to engrave them... Here's some pics and thanks for looking!

The bezel is different, about .020" smaller in ID.

Domez be kewl! Good call...

It's alive!!!! 'Sup, R?

This is with crystal, bezel, and wso990 580 end-links.

Well, M, you should know better than anybody here! Some want me to weld in the original "dimples" as well as other "enhancements" but I can see it getting to the point of having to decide how much is too much for a rep case regardless of how "accurate" it might be.

I have some dial blanks and a fresh pad and white ink for the printer. Hopefully I'll have a chance to give it a try before year end. I have developed a cliche but may have to have one professionally produced to get the resolution we need...

I have a feeling this is gonna cause me some work...

Maybe, have to decide if it's really worth it. Even with the CNC the cleanup and lug-hole relocating is rather labor intensive.

I think most folks know that after M inflicted me with the "Explorer Virus" I have become very fond of them. Once the price of suitable gen cases started getting unreasonable I looked around for rep cases that didn't look too bad and came up with the 2824 16200 case. This made a pretty decent looking mid-range Explorer and with the correct bezel and such made a reasonably believable copy. But, the lug shape bugged the dawg-$hit out of some folks bad enough to cause them to spend some quality "therapy" time with aforementioned case and various files and abrasive papers! Not my idea of a really good time... Enter blue. After some back-and-forth he sent me an AutoCad drawing file he worked up for the lug profile of a 1016 case. At the time I was really swamped and didn't have a chance to do anything to it and it sat on the back-burner for several weeks. After I caught a breather I kind of rushed a test and tore up a case but it showed me what I did wrong. Several months passed until I was finally able to make a few tweaks to the drawing and turn it into G-Code for my lathe and yesterday I decided to try my luck. I first re-profiled the tops of the lugs based on blue.'s drawing and cleaned up the burrs with a fine "sword" file. I then sanded and re-brushed the lug tops and turned to the lug holes. I usually drop the lug holes into the existing "dimples" on the lug insides but since I slimmed the lugs I decided I would try to relocate them to a more proper spot. I was pleased that the new location not only looked a helluva lot more correct but also the new holes didn't encroach on the existing dimples. I was afraid I would break into the edge of one of them and cause the bit to "wander" and make an ugly hole. Although the original dimples can be plainly seen once the end-pieces and bracelet are installed they should be hidden. I popped on a pair of wso990 555 end-pieces and they lined up with the newly relocated lug holes perfectly and I didn't have to do any grinding. After this I then lightly aged the case and pronounced it good enough. Enough said, here's a couple pics of the results...

I think I actually have a couple of those dials in the parts-box! It's one of my favorites. You could always swap in a different dial and better DWO... Mine sez hi!

Frazzle - If you use an ETA (or clone) the keyless is pretty forgiving and installing hands is pretty easy if you have some hand-pressers.

It's on it's way! Here's a teaser...

Guess I better write a program...

If the back it came with is relatively flat it could be engraved. PM me if you want to look into this...