jmb

Yes, just ask Yuki to sub ETA hands and they will match the dial...

Well, it does admit to being "aftermarket"... Funny how sellers like this (that probably look down their noses at us rep guyz) pawn off rep stuff as aftermarket...

Yuki has been, through the years, somewhat hot and cold at least as far as Explorer dials go. I think they get them in "batches" and I have often wondered if these batches come from the same maker!

Yeah, the dial is going to be either right at the edge (will chip the crap out of the paint) or fall through. I usually machine a combination movement spacer/dial "platform" and glue the dial onto it.

It will probably require some sort of combination movement spacer/dial platform...

I've built several and I think the easiest and best bang for the buck is a Cartel 5512/13. Putting on a gen crown and tube helps the stubby CGs a little and a Yuki dial looks decent. The Yuki minute hand is too long so a better dimensioned set of hands is a nice touch. Of course the between lug engraving is not right but I doubt very many people chase down strangers and force them to look at lug engraving especially if they have to wait for you to remove the bracelet...

Depending on what broke it might be a simple fix or require a movement replacement. I've had the rotor attachment screw shear off after a drop, the tip of the balance broken, and the bearing and rotor come detached.

Very cool! I engraved a back for somebody and just centered the logo, didn't even think of putting something cool under it!

Bc - The PT always has used the plastic spacer but at least the ring and bezel were sorta gen-like, now they even ruined that! auto - I agree, the case has some redeeming qualities but it's just another hurdle and expense to deal with.

Well, truth be told I imagine that the run-of-the-mill rep producers and sellers consider us as a PITA and would just as soon leave us to the likes of Yuki, Phong, et al. Rat-ba$tards...

Here's some pics of the new construction. AND they still make the ring too big and use the nylon/plastic spacer...

Why do they always have to take a somewhat good thing and farkle it up! For a long time people have been using a PT something ot other to use as a base to build all sorts of stuff. Has CGs that can be worked into something pleasing to the eye and a bezel that's at least gen like and with a correct compression ring can be gen spec. Well, all good things must come to an end. Someone sent me a PT Red Sub to do a crystal and crown swap on and when I popped the bezel it was held on with the good ol' paperclip spring. I will say, however, that the arrangement they are now using closely resembles the gen brass coin-edge construction on the really old Subs. I can see why, from a machining/manufacturing standpoint, why they would do this as tolerances are not as big an issue but it's just one more curve-ball folks need to deal with...

My favorite "beater"...

I used to build a lot of these but I can't get the older style dials anymore. I do have a couple of the older version dials kicking around but they have the larger "maxi" markers on 'em. Although not 100% correct I sorta like the Maxis...

Did any of the monoblock crowns use the smaller "old style" tube? So, so far the overall impression of this crown is fairly favorable? I'll pass this info on.

Startime has the "native" A7750 for around $175 and the ETA7750 for about $425. If you go ETA you'll need some hands...

Seems the more I try staring at minute details comparing several closely related objects the more everything starts looking the same! I received an evaluation sample (from a proto batch) 6mm crown from a trusted parts seller who wanted to know what I thought of it. After receiving it it just looked a bit odd but I couldn't really put my finger on what bothered me so I put it on my "daily beater" Explorer and took some pics. There are some immediate contradictions that really won't be seen but bear mentioning. The crown is a monoblock (?) construction but the internal thread is for the "old style" tube which I believe is the same as for the 5.3mm crown. Also, the machining on the back-side of the crown is pretty rough but it really isn't seen. The crown gasket is of the "flat" variety which is also in keeping with the older style crown. I'm thinking for an old-style crown the edge chamfer on the back-side of the crown should ba a bit more pronounced as well. The "knurling" is nice and sharp, compared to a lot of replica crowns, overall thickness looks about right, but the "fillet" transition from the edge of the knurling to the face of the crown seems a bit weak. The main thing that just looks a bit strange is the coronet and "dash" placement. The coronet seems a tad small and the "dash" maybe a bit high. But, I'm about cross-eyed about now so I'll shut up and post the pics...

Welcome, M, to Club Jube!

Lugs look great but M's right in that the lug holes look like you could drive a truck through 'em! Of course, macros and close-ups exaggerate everything. Nice work!

Well, these cases start out with no holes so I can't blame anything on the mfg. I just hate that sourcing additional endlinks adds $25 to the cost of a build! But, I agree on the wrong size holes.

Sounds like you farkled the keyless works on 'em. Movement will need to be removed, then dial and hands, and the keyless sorted.

Is that lighting or is it a "fade job" on the paint? If it's a fade I like it, too! That makes me think of Candy Apple Blue and Red dials - Oooo, the possibilities are endless!!!

Joey, I gave up on trying to drill out regular end-links a couple years ago. I would twist the tubes off on probably 4 out of 5 and that was using 4 different bits to gradually increase the opening. I even bought a tapered 2mm reamer and that didn't do any better.

goat - So far I've had pretty good luck with their end-links, unlike some of their other stuff.