alt.watch.obsessive

Don't feed the...anyone?...not quite sure...flippy?

If they both do the same thing are you sure they're broken? Can you describe the problem?

You need the exact number and not just "late teens, February". This isn't the watch for you then. LOL!

I'm not particularly fond of either model, but at least the new version has (1) a complication and (2) a connection to yachting...not sure why the gen is so poorly received. Most of the new models strike me as far worse. Anyhow...agreed...not a great rep.

That was my first thought too...anybody know?

Thanks for the info...I'll look into a new crown. Cheers.

Plastic. No idea if original but probably not.

Hi all, Here are two franken rolies I put together following the great advice here. The date watch is a 1500 circa 1973. I uses a date wheel from, of all places, a super cheap modern submariner I bought years ago from watchsolution. Open 6/9 etc. Movement is held firmly by just the standard case clamps. Took the liberty of using rep 6694 hands since I'm so fond of them. Aftermarket glass from clark. The datejust is a 16200 circa 1991. It's for sure a gen case, but came with a tube for the 5.3mm crown. It was obviously drilled for this, since the threads in the case are too small for the 6mm. I didn't know this was possible, but apparently... Thanks for all the great guidance in the topics here. Steve.

Hi Stilty, The two aftermarket wheels I mentioned above are the exact same size with the numbers in the same position as far as I can tell. I know each fits properly in the respective date/datejust dial. Cheers, Steve.

The look on the German Chancelor's face at their press conference last week had to be the low point in American history since the Hoover administration. At least Nixon was up to something.

On the road, but I have replacement wheels for both 31 and 15 movements. Can compare sizes when I return. Thurs. I spent $39 before remembering the date changes in diferent directions LOL. Cheers, Steve.

That's a 2007 Chronoswiss correct?

Hey guys, Unfortunately, my camera has stopped communicating with my computer. I'll post pictures when I get this sorted out. Cheers.

Hi all, I just completed a 1500 oyster perpetual date model 34mm for 1570. 2824 movement fits just fine, lined up dead center for the stem. I fashioned a spacer from the 2834 enlargement ring by whittling it down to almost nothing, but I found the standard case clamps hold the movement just fine without. Perfectly tight against the outside of the case and the dial pushed up all the way. So, this may be one of the easiest projects. Much harder to find a good 27mm dial than 28mm however. Re. the comment above...some of the dial prices are completely out of whack. If I do this again I think I will start with the dial and then buy the appropriate case. I got a black dial with sticks for $36 after several second-place bids. BTW, the 'wholesale' guy on ebay from Sugarland Texas has added some very cool alternating red/black date wheels for 1570 to his collection. Didn't try, but I've found his other stuff acceptable if just barely. Cheers.

Great info from Ubi and Stilty as usual

Hi all, I thought I'd share this experiment. The noobmariner features a smaller and more accurate date window than most sub reps. Unfortunately, I've always felt it was too small. I know some people will agree with me, others not so much. The issue is not the magnification, but the size of the date window itself which is too tight to the numbers, especially in the vertical dimension. So, I simply took a very small file and enlarged it ever so slightly. The "damage" is limited to the inside edge which gets a bit of very high gloss black lacquer rubbed on with a toothpick. Here's the result. This is a stock noob with a new crown, CG mod, and the date window change. The crown is from another rep. For some reason the window looks a bit off kilter in the photo, but it is square in person with nice sharp corners. This is a pretty good photo for me . Anyhow, you can get a sense of the size.

Ask for a profile shot. If the crystal sits up like it should, these are fairly good reps.

I used to teach in the Business School there. Shocking story.

Ah yes...The "I just bought a house so I can't spend any money" thing...That lasts about two months. Just kidding of course...congrats!

LOL!

Took several hours for someone to suggest using an in-house movement. Drr.

Mine seems to work fine, but I don't know anything beyond that.

Hi Guys, I just got done with a 16200 following all the great advice here and had similar issues. Not sure if this applies to subs... I glued it to the existing datewheel. Test if it's working without the dial. When you install the dial, the spacer will probably be a hair small. I built mine up with a thin application of superglue, let it dry, then glued the dial. Then try it again. It needs to click over very freely--if it advances slowly when you set the date there is too much friction which you can overcome when advancing the date by hand but the watch won't be able to handle reliably on its own. You may need the longer pinnon on the movement for the hands to be perfect...I had to bend the minute hand ever so slightly to clear the large stick markers on the gen dial. When the date advances, no movement then "click" and it moves forward. Cheers.

This? http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...amp;mode=linear

Date's are the older model. Personally I prefer the older Rolexes when the design was fresh. Precisions especially among the affordable models.