PeteM

Best thing to do is buy on from a dealer or maybe try BK ...you will probably get a BP crystal without much problem but Noob wont sell parts generally unless your dealer has an in Then send crystal to Prof in USA or Domi etc in EU... Profs is best as its colourless.. Or just keep look out for sales threads as I just sold one and they do appear now and again... Or just send your DSSD direct to Prof or Domi etc and they will take it out and get it ARd for you..

Its defo not front loading mate You have 3 screws holding movement to the movement holder ring.. You probably wont get the dial out by taking the bezel off without doing some damage

Rochest is Watchesinternational Mary is Kingshow Ken is Chazingtime All are TDs either here or other forums but you will find top 2 in TD section mate

There's a few more of the 03s already released in last few days in PVD etc movement is 9125 Miyota There's still a bit to do with the lume colour uncharged but these are al ARd and superlumed etc

Its the magistrates comments that get me.... Be interesting to see his sentence.. bound to be community service and repay damages at £5 a week...

As well as the big influx of IWC reps coming over next few months this new B&R should be here soon as you can see from the prototype below... Another maker may be bringing out some of the larger models as well... {robably after the national holidays over there

Hi guys I am still getting used to this new format for the forum and I have tried searching in the usual ways but the answers all refer to the old format site... I want to edit my signature... It used to be in settings on my profile but now I cant find an option to do so... I can do my avatar and other user info etc but i cannot see a signature edit option Can any one point me in right direction .... hopefully it wont be the door ... !! WANT TO BUY OR TRADE FOR A BELL & ROSS 01 (46mm) PLEASE

loosely they are abbreviations I guess that are used to differentiate between makers... some makers produce better or lesser reps... all dealers sell these watches (with a few exceptions, but generally speaking) Its too much to explain here all the variations... but once you decide on the brand, the model, the budget... you choose the maker (if there is more than one) usually and if you are lucky there will be one maker that stands above the others for your particular watch choice... (or maybe only one, in which case its a no brainer) anyway then you find out with research on here in relevant sections which maker makes the better version and which version is best of them... like V1 or V2 etc... or ZF maker or Noob maker etc Once you know then go to a few of trusted dealers and see which one you would prefer to buy from in terms of cost of watch and cost of shipping and payment methods to suit... also check reviews of both watch and dealer... if you arent sure when looking over the dealer sites then its easier to email them direct and ask them specifically they will know what your talking about and will get back to you with price and shipping etc as you might want triangle shipping to minimize customs risks etc Some TDs like Sead have EU stock limited but some decents ones and again like Sead he doesnt have a website or only has small website with limited list of watches and if you find one dealer is cheaper than another generally but you cant find the particular watch you want on his site then you will still be able to get that watch from that dealer if you contact the dealer direct and ask him and it will still likely be cheaper You can find price variations that can average around 40/50 bucks higher or lower and about 15/20 bucks with shipping higher or lower... some dealers advertise discounts like with the current ZF sale and others dont in the hope you buy at the higher price... It really comes down to getting yourself around the forum and like I said in first post make certain choices about what you want before you hone into which is the better version and best place to buy.. ( I would also suggest you have say a list of 3 that you are looking for as you might find the rep of the watch you want aint great or it might be out of stock etc so its good to have a fallback choice) The more I type here the more I am feeling like I am answering a "Who has the best sub...?" thread ;)

Oi Oi 'ammer !! Welcome mate... plenty of interesting sources for your project mate and most that work within all ranges of budgets... Many guys here do that sort of stuff themself but parts wise guys like TC, Jacksontse, getatwatch Helenerou River etc etc But you will find that info as you trawl around.... also try HF forum as they do lots of sterile stuff and can get some great ideas.. Look forward to seeing you around mate... Close one so far... COYI...

Blimey T ... where you been mate.. Good to see you mate... I hope all is well? Thats some sweetness right there... Lets see that Blue baby... Would like to see that beauty on the wrist mate or in daylight... see some dial action.. Very Sweet and very tasty mate

Blimey mate...Quartz.. really... surprises me you would think of going for that in any of those... The newer 25J asians are very robust and pretty well made.. much better than the older 2813s etc I think you would be better only going for Swiss if the watch is a keeper and worth the expense If not go for a Swasian hybrid or Asian Clone which you can pick up cheaper from a M2M sale usually in a watch that no one really lies and ends up or even starts out cheapish.. Or find a cheap one from the dealers as you can find some decent movements in some horrible watches that because they are horrible do sell for little dollars... and often discounted, in sales or part of special offers like buy this watch get this watch free which a lot of dealers do if you get to know their sites and dont just look at latest arrivals or brand sub sections.. etc

No matter where you start it wont end there so dont get to hung up on the first one mate... I would recommend if you cant decide that you start with a brand you like or wanted to try... then think about your minimum and maximum watch size.... after that comes the makers and/or versions and best and more reliable after that.. Say if you wanted Breitling then size can be either say 42 or 44 then best OTB rep is arguably the SuperOcean Abyss... even laying next to the gen you cant spot the differences.. then you can look at the movement options... If you are budget limited then do the same exercise but after the brand choice add budget limit... If you fancy a PAM then ZF maker are having a sale at moment they have about 10/12 models on sale from auto to HW... starting around $170 Or look at the H maker or Noob low price PAMs they are some very good OTB reps at around $150.. Models like the 111,112, 113 or the FUs or Boutique editions etc etc To make a choice I would really suggest you narrow it done first as decision will be hard enough after you have... As for secs at 6... thats very much a maker and time rule as there is one maker that produces a decent at 6 movement and a purpose built one (as in not over plate gearing) coming shortly if not already here... as are a couple of others like working PR for IWC models.. etc etc Which ever way you go mate...it will NOT stop there so dont get too worried about it ...

My reaction was the box was rep..or certainly from that pic the cloth inner etc... though many guys mix and match old gen boxes with rep accessories etc... For me the only box worth buying is a branded multi watch box like the OP 6 or 12 watch display box etc... Other than that they are only good for pics and even when it comes to selling it can be a PIA... But each to their own ...thats what makes this hobby so great and so appealing as you can go as little and/or as far as you want and no one can be critical of it as its a very personal thing just like an opinion... Best of luck to you mate..if it brings you pleasure then just enjoy it ... Never try to justify it to yourself and certainly not to others

It can also help !!!

If you are easy on the actual designs there are plenty of companies EU wide and china etc that have off the shelf engraved cases that morealess cover most case shapes and brand looks... Another ex member to ask in Germany is T-Crown at Tourby watches DE.... Plus if you google you will be surprised just how many companies do it... as well as other aftermarket mods...like plating, ceramics, DLC etc not just RG etc but also rhodium etc etc

Anyone reading this should note that this is a US issue... to UK DHL customs is done HK side And UK customs cannot simply seize an item simply because they believe it to be a rep... they have to have that item confirmed as a rep by an authorised agent of the brand...and allow 30 days to recipient to appeal or prove to the counter... Its a completely different process and one reason why triangle to UK and shipping on to EU or US can be a great deal safer...

jauntily

Some new release IWCs... http://www.replicawatchvideo.com/iwc2015092301_8ce389ea8.html http://www.replicawatchvideo.com/iwc2015092302_f336cf70f.html http://www.replicawatchvideo.com/iwc2015092303_1c44f38ff.html

Absolutely my gens do exactly the same mate... move away from the area ...Nothing to see here...

No mate..that elusive spot is as said a quirk of variations in light and the angle etc sometimes you will think its scratched other times the dial has mark etc etc The noob crystal aint the best and I aint comparing it by any means to the gen but its a common sort of question or concern asked even by gen owners...

Though in this case Gasebah... it would be a rep watch with a fake complication ... you may well find a rep of these mate but as mentioned the complications will be faux ....the best place to find out if a rep is available is to search on Watcheden site as they list near enough every rep around.... from the $20 specials to the better reps... they have more than any TD site I have ever seen.... but I would never buy from them.. What you should do if you want a particular watch and you cant find a rep on a dealer site or even know if the rep is made is to email a dealer someone like Connie at Kingwatch or Rochester at Watchesinternational and attach a pic of the gen you are after as a rep.. they will then tell you if one exists and if stocks are available.. In fact i would recommend to anyone that they should never just assume because a deler doesnt list it on his/her site that they dont sell it.... You should always contact a dealer direct as if the maker has stock they can get it for you and the smaller dealers will be cheaper than the bigger ones including postage will be cheaper plus you tend to get a better service as they arent as busy... I dont think I have ordered from a site in years.... I just email my dealer direct with a pic and details and he gets me price and then I order it... the only time I use a dealers site is for reference or research and I use certain dealers for certain types or makes of watches... For example if you want to see whats just come out regularly check sites like Ryan or Angus' If you want to research older or less well known reps that might be out there then go to any of Cartel or similar dealers like Josh or Andrew etc If you want to ask if this or that can be bought or if stocks exist or even for parts then go to someone like Ken (my dealer) or Connie or Rochester or Sead etc.... A lot of guys seem to forget that dealers all sell the same watches and if you cant see it ...It doesnt mean they cant get it

Yes gen will fit and I always preferred the H makers cyclops on PAMs but that maybe different now or rather more recently.. The crystal is one piece mate so I am a bit of a loss to explain your issue assuming i understand it that is Have you been to opticians,,, Are you sure its not an issue thats always been there and you have only just noticed it or taken more time to study it recently and the perception has grown...I know it sounds daft but the mind and memory can play tricks on you... The gen cyclops especially the 7mm on later models is very distorting at even the slightest angle... my gens are like that with the cyclops ...though again thats assuming i understand your concerns.. as I might be totally misunderstanding what your saying...