Martyd3

I know how do it, but is there a way to do it without removing the overlay? Thanks. Marty

Timex Big Crown ... nice

This was a bit of a basket case when I got it. The case was over aged in my opinion. I've brought it back to a well worn, but cared for look. The crown/tube are gen. The current crystal is a Clark. I have a gen crystal on order and a new relumed MBW dial ready to install, along with a silver date wheel. I am working on finding a better insert ... hopefully gen.

Unless it's a gen Rolex plexi

I've always been told to remove the stem from the winding position. There is less chance of buggering the keyless works that way

You will need to sand down the inside of bezel a bit to get the new crystal to fit.

The build date is March 1967.

It's al original. The dial is close to perfect and the case has never been buffed. It's off to be serviced next week.

Here's one of my grail's, which I am lucky enough to own.

I am looking for one. Thanks. Marty

That's better

Ingod44 on eBay.

I want the the watch, but should I wait for V3 (assuming there will be one)?

Matte photo paper, which is available in different weights, can work. This is a project that is much easier said than done ... correctly

I added a better pic

GS Hypo cement or Testors model glue holds tight, but is easy to remove. All you have to do is slide a razor blade between the date wheel and the overlay to loosen it.

Date wheels on 1680 and 1665 subs have been the bane of my existence. I've sold three of them because the date wheel alignment sucked. Some were good for half the dates, others were too far to to left or too far to the right. It's an OCD nightmare for me. My lastest 1665, from PT, was no better. It had a nice date wheel, but the date was crowded in the date window (which is too small). Some numbers were even slightly covered by the dial. Rather than selling the watch, this time I decided to fix the problem. My first step was to pick up an MBW dial, which has a larger, more correct date window. That was a big improvement, but it didn't work well with the PT date wheel. No matter what I did, the alignment wasn't great and I had a problem with the date wheel sticking. I tried a number of solutions, including making my own overlay, but nothing worked. In the end, I sourced an MBW overlay, which when properly installed, is as close to perfect as I think you can get. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but I didn't think about posting this when I did the work. Here's what I learned: 1. Plan on doing this 3 - 4 times to get it right (if you are not comfortable removing and resetting hands or screw up keyless works or a regular basis ... pass on this one). 2. Use a good, slow drying adhesive. One that will give you more than a couple of minutes to get things aligned. I use GS Hypo cement, but any good plastic model glue will work too. 3. Use a magnifier. You will need one. Without it, you won't be able to fine tune the alignment. 4. Once you think you've got it right, put the dial/movement in the watch and recheck it under the crystal. Things look different when the watch is reassembled (trust me on this one). How to align the date wheel: 1. Put small pin head sized drops of glue on the date wheel (not the overlay). 2. Using the stem as horizontal line, gently put the overlay onto the date wheel lining up one of the numbers. 3. Install the dial and check the alignment (look to see if it is up, down, left or to the right). It will be off in more than one direction. 4. Remove the dial, make some fine adjustments (you will be able to slide the overlay) and check again. 5. When you think the number is aligned, do the following. A. Check the number opposite the number you have aligned (if you aligned the 8, check the the 23). You will need to go back and forth a couple of times to get it right. B. Once you have those numbers aligned, you will need to align the two numbers on a vertical axis opposite the two numbers that you checked (if you aligned the 8 and the 23, check the 16 and the 31). C. Follow the same procedure as for the 8 and 23. Once the 16 and 31 are aligned, check the alignment of the 8 and 23 again. You will need to make small adjustments, but you will eventually get the four numbers aligned this way. Some helpful tips: I do my alignment using the top and left sides of the date window as a guide. I get the best results this way. You really need to use the left side of the window for the numbers in the teens and when I use the bottom on the window as a guide, the number always ends up sitting low in the window. It may be an optical illusion thing. It's a pain, but align four numbers opposite each other. It takes longer, but the results will be better. Until someone perfects an overlay, the alignment won't be 100% perfect. In my opinion, having a few numbers slightly to the left is best way to go. I have seen many gens that are this way. Be patient and take your time. If you have 20 minutes before dinner, don't start this project! Here's one pic, because this post is worthless without a pic

I guess our resident 127 expert has spoken.

I think it's better to remove the bezel, for the the crystals sake and to get a better finish. You can use a scotchbrite pad or a rubber refinishing bar. What I did was to hold the bar steady and rotate the bezel on it. I got a nice even finish that way.

One of my favorites ...

You will need a gen crystal retaining ring. I have an aftermarket one sitting in my parts box. If you want to try it, PM me. Marty

I am working on an overlay project. When the project is completed, I can give you a couple of the finished overlays for your trouble. Thanks. Marty

Understanding that it would need to be modded, are there any that turn the opposite way and mimic a 1680/1665 date wheel?

Thanks. Marty