red series 3

I'd be keen for a 5514 and 5517

Patience seems to be one of the attributes required to enjoy the rep experience. I'm still trying to learn this lesson myself.

This looks great. I'm sure you will be very popular with these.

If the Tc sub i have is anything to go by. With the gen crown in a good position on the TC tube It was only turning on a half turn, So I felt I could either shorten the stem and bring the crown closer to the case. Which I tested with a crown without a stem and it looked too close or install a gen spec tube, which I think is the correct option. I'm not sure what it will entail has anybody removed TC's tube. Does installing the gen spec tube involve countersinking the hole or not.

I just bought the tap from a seller on ebay. The first item I bought was not in stock and I had to cancel the order and re order with another seller. I know the 703 needs an M3 x 0.35 tap. I ran this in by hand i.e with no tap holder. It looks like the phong case has been counterbored and counter sunk for the 703 tube so hopefully just running the tap through will be o.k, this was one part of working on the DW case that was very trial and error. But I am really happy with the way It ended up. I searched and search for photos that showed the amount of the tube to be proud from the mid case. I found this is one area a lot get wrong. With the tube being counter sunk and screwed too close to the case. Freddy is good at this also. Actually I think Freddy and his fine photographic skills are to blame for me desire to build a daytona There are not many options for the tube tool on ebay. These were actually much cheaper through the local swiss watch material supplier than on ebay. I had a tool from my old days as a fitter and turner that allowed the installation of the spline section of the pusher easily. But I had trouble with the pusher I ordered from Clark. the outer section was a bit loose and wobbly and when installed it was more prominent. I sent Gary a message and maybe he will sort it out for me. I have seen Freddy has a specific tool for installing pushers but have not seen aftermarket units. I cannot confirm the pusher thread I thought it was M2.5 x 0.25 The pusher I installed matched the threads in the case. I think the case I have is very similar in thickness to the case pictured here. Even though it is from DW

Surely a waterproof watch is not unreasonable. I tried to lift the bezel with my nails and was able to separate it from the midcase a few mm so i think i will have to look at a new bezel. I never swim or shower with a watch. If I sweat in a watch I usually will take the watch off at the end of the day and wash it when I wash my hands sometimes with soapy water. Any watch should be able to withstand this. I think if you asked me what the biggest hurdle with assembling parts for a daytona build is knowing whether the rep parts are going to be up to the job. The comparisons that have been done by some of the members here are really great.

I made a post some time back about the different series of valjoux 72 about. There seems to be a few different models. I think when choosing a doner movement you just have to pay attention to how it mounts in the case. I struck another stumbling block on my daytona build. I assembled the 703 tube into the case and swapped out the DW pusher so I had two Clarks units. greased up all the seals and put into a glass then filled it with water. It leaked so I dried it out put it on a tapered plate face up. I filled it so the pushers and stem were submerged. No leaks. I turned it over and then filled the plate so just the bezel and crystal were submerged. turned it over and it had taken on water. I can only assume the crystal is not sealing. Considering the id of the bezel has been sanded I would think this could cause the issue. If sanded too far. Maybe there is not enough pressure on the crystal to the od of the rehaut. It has a J@k crystal are these any good regarding being waterproof. The case is from DW is there any chance of getting a waterproof daytona. You almost need an oracle service with Daytona builds. There are so many little issues that seem to pop up.

http://anonym.to/http://dl.free.fr/f1aheMRWF Here is the link. This link is not being hosted by me. The effort put in to scan and host this is very much appreciated. If It is not the right thing for me to post please remove. Thank you

I enjoy all the builds on here if I could offer any help. I would gladly. I have recently bought heaps of bits for the daytona build. I bought some hands from Clarks and look forward to receiving them with some anticipation. I find the clarks tudor hands (eta datejust)look great hopefully these are the same.

Just read this and the repgeek thread and they've just reposted that the link for the download is live again. Which it is. Cheers

I didn't realize that it was so cheap. At this price it just seems like a bargain. Can I change my opinion. Now I want one. maybe two one for each wrist.

I keep on reading different stories about which sub cases fit gen inserts and which don't. I remember reading on the gen rolex forums that this discussion happens as well with gen owners having black and green bezels and changing them. When it comes to returning to the other bezel they have had major issues with getting them to fit and I think I remember a post about somebody pushing the insert evenly down on a bottle neck and then fitting it in easily. Has anybody tried this here? Or tried freezing the insert and then trying to fit I'll try to dig up the post. I just don't know if I could bring myself to file down a gen LV insert to get it to fit. https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=243940&highlight=sub+insert+issues

Legend thanks. The coronet on this crown looks identical to the 702 freddy has shown in his pictures. That's good news I think it looks great

I hope i didn't do it again, I was looking at freddy's pic and started thinking oh no thats a 702. I just bought this off another member can anyone confirm what series crown this is. Thanks

whats the gaytona. This is pretty gay. It has a rainbow where its bezel is meant to be. I searched gaytona and saw somebody already posted this in yellow gold. I'm sorry to have brought it back up

http://www.rolex.com...116599RBOW-0003 Surely nobody can find the look of this watch appealing. Maybe this is why vintage daytona prices are so high

I was about to post that all was good as I had wound the watch and worn it all day without an issue. Then I looked down at the watch and it had stopped at 6:25 after running fine since 10am today. I removed the sticker on the back and was able to take the caseback off with my fingers. Inside it looks normal nothing seems loose or out of place. Although there was a nice scratch that was not there when I sent the movement away. The watchmaker marked the case and the gasket had been lubed. But I have still had no response from him since Thursday last week. Heres a pic of the inside. Starting it back up just requires unscrewing the crown and moving it to the time setting position. As soon as you move the hands either forward or backwards. The movement starts running again. I just wish the watchmaker had replied and said something like sorry mate. Pop it in the post and we'll sort it out. But he has read my message and chosen not to respond.

Freddy is saying that the dial pictured is for a modern daytona i think 16520. By definition it is not a paul newman dial the newman dials were for the 60-70-80's daytonas http://stefanomazzariol.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Rolex%3AThe%20NEWMAN%20%20dial

I bought the movement loose so I cannot say

Hey guys I have been admiring your 7032's for some time and started looking for a movement. I sourced one and thought that the case kits would always be available and waited as finances were limited at the time then the DW thing happened and I had a movement with no home. I ended up locating a case set and sent the lot for service and assembly. It returned and I was excited as I head up to the post office spring bars and nato in hand, Wound it up strapped it on feeling chuffed after collecting it from the post office. But soon after I looked down and the watch had stopped. I wound it again but it only turned maybe two clicks and then slipped. I moved to the time setting location with the crown and it started again. I set the timing hand running to see if this changed anything but after a few hours the watch stopped again. With it always being sufficiently wound. I emailed the guy that serviced the watch and have not heard back from him yet. With the watch on for two days it stopped a total of 17 times. I started taking photos to see if there was a conceivable reason. Were the hands always in the same position. No Could I make it happen on demand by the way the watch faced. No Does it last the same time before stopping. No I tried leaving the watch on the table wound but with the crown left out. To see if it was a stem length issue. But it still stopped. The main hands appear to have good clearance. Whilst the running seconds seems to slow at certain positions it never stops in the same spot It is about to be left on the side table as I have no confidence in the movements ability to keep going. When this movement was in a movement holder I wound it up to see how long it ran and it went for over two days. Any tips on how to sort this out would be appreciated. Although I think I have little to no chance that it could be something simple. I have a wide array of tools but kind of think it shouldn't really be my problem. I wanted a reliable watch that I didn't have too much money tied up in. The biggest expense in the whole watch has been the servicing costs. With no response from the watchmaker and no reliable timekeeping to be had it is little more than an ornament for my side table Here's a pic(bad) I call it the Aussie battler 7032 Thanks for any assistance

I'm a 78 and I've got a few datejusts from this year but I want to get a 5513 and 18038. I wouldn't mind buying my daughter a watch but she is only 15months old and whilst she knows what a clock is. She cannot yet tell the time. She likes to have a watch strapped on her wrist and parades around with it. Quite funny. I don't really like any of the modern rolex. Probably WG submariner for her. But I'll wait a few years until the price of these becomes acceptable.

Google searches on certain Rolex model and part numbers brings up this site quite a lot. I was at the Omega AD in Sydney with a friend taking his PO in for service. This just changed before you went to swatch and you could buy parts. My friend was asking about an orange bezel and they said they couldn't sell it to him as his watch didn't come out with that dial bezel combo and I was thinking Omega are trying to be Rolex. It might be a tumultuous time ahead in the luxury watch market it looks like eta really is stopping selling its generic movements to other companies. Or something else is fuelling the return to in-house movements.

i looked and looked for part 2 but never found it

Hey guys how did these hands work out is this the source for subdial hands?