freddy333

You really have only 2 options (well, 3 if you include buying a new retaining ring) - 1. Use a thicker gauge crystal. Aftermarket/rep crystals tend to be thinner gauge than gens & most aftermarket cases are made to fit gen crystals so their retaining rings fit loosely over rep crystals. 2. Add a thin layer of epoxy around the inner circumference of the ring. When cured, you may need to sand it a bit to make it smooth so it properly seals the crystal against the inner case wall.

I will give that a try, but I have a few questions (I really used to know this stuff, but it has been years since I have worked in *nix) - 1. Does the fact that I am using atacontrol to form a RAID with the 2 hard drives change content of the command-line you posted above? Or, do I need to unmount the individual drives 1st, & just clone the primary drive? 2. What is the command to find the listing of drive names? I do not recognize /dev/sda or /dev/sdb?? Is it da? 3. What is the command to mount both the source & destination drives? And is if= the source & bs= the destination or vice-versa? Thank you.

Working @ 360Hz

Is there a software app (similar to Norton Ghost) that can create a bootable copy of a BSD Unix system onto a new/larger hard drive? I know that Ghost & similar utilities can do this with Windows systems & they can also image a BSD file system over to a new/larger hard drive, but, the last time I checked (several years ago), an imaged BSD drive is not bootable. I have an old web server running BSD 4.3 & Apache 1.3 composed of a pair of 80gig Western Digital IDE hard drives (installed via a SIL680 RAID card) configured as RAID1 via atacontrol. The hardware is several years old & currently running fine, but I want to migrate everything over to new, larger hard drives before a drive fails. Optionally, I would like to relocate to an entire new PC & use the motherboard's built-in RAID software to configure the RAID so I can eliminate the SIL680 card, which is handling the RAID now. However, the last time I migrated to new drives, you had to install BSD from scratch & then migrate the old data over to the drives. Unfortunately, at that time, there were no utilities that were able to make a bootable copy of a BSD filesystem & I am hoping that that has changed.

Always buy the seller...............

Not quite there yet, but we have certainly come a long way.

Most members only check the for sale sections when they are selling or searching for something. If the seller is a long-time member of VRF, you might ask him for provenance.

If it is of recent vintage, it cannot be genuine. It looks very good, but it does not look 50 years old.

Very nice, but it looks like it may be of recent vintage .

MBW (sometimes referred to as MBK) is an acronym for Maria's Best Watch & is covers a number of good quality reps that were sourced through the MBK shopping district several years ago. Their vintage Subs & Seadwellers were famous as being 1 of the 1st reps to have a case that was made similar to the genuine (gen) watches so that they will accept gen crystals, crowns, crown tubes & bracelets (&, with a bit of nudging, a gen movement as well). These are still being made today, but I believe the design has changed & cannot verify the status of their current production. There are many threads on the subject that you can Search out, but I would encourage you to read Toad's guide in the Introduction forum 1st.

If you know someone with a geiger counter, you might have them check your watch dial. My mid-50s OPD, while not immediately dangerous, does emit an occasional electron or 2 http://s95.photobuck...nt=MVI_1735.mp4

Wearing my '39 still & again

2-3 dozen.

I do not allow any of my watches to get wet & a hazy crystal inhibits function, but I do wear & use them. Tool watches, like hand tools, were meant to be used & tend to look better when they look that way

7924. The rose Tudor is so much prettier than the Sub.

Posing with 1 of my Newmans among the last of the summer flora

What, no mountain biking wristie? I feel cheated.

Regardless of the sales pitch from the dealer, you should always assume that the movement in your new replica is either used or unserviced (or both). Therefore, if you plan to keep the watch & need it to be reliable, I would have it professionally serviced as soon as you receive it. Otherwise, you are likely to be back here in hours, days or weeks posting that your new watch is stopping or not keeping time. Check your local phone book for 'watch & clock repair' (or similar) or do a google search for watchmakers in your city. Before making the trip to a watchmaker, phone & ask if they will service replica watches with <insert type of movement in your replica watch here>. Many watchmakers will happily service your watch, but some will not.

<p> Me no-likee.

I guess it is up to me to start the wristies again & still wearing my white Newman

Me likee. He even got the wide P in COSMOGRAPH, which is a 1st on a rep Newman dial. Overall, it looks better than my MQ, even with its gen crown. Did he give you a price quote?

Wearing my '39 tonight