freddy333

If the hand is resetting in different places or spinning freely around the dial as you rotate the watch, yes. If it is running when the stop-watch function is off, it is a brake problem. I posted a thread (with pics) a few years ago detailing the problem with pics that you can search out.

Assuming your hour totalizer is supposed to be functional (as opposed to a date or other function that is frozen to mimic a Daytona's stop-watch in the 'Off' position), the brake is likely either worn or maladjusted. Either case requires removal of hands/dial to fix.

Definitely, an improvement. But why not just get Yuki's 7836, which has the correct links in the 1st place

The owner must have had it done for him by an indy watchmaker. There was a lengthy discussion of that watch on a gen site & it was pretty clearly a franken since no one was able to cite a Rolex reference illustrating a gold Daytona dial in a ss case. As a matter of fact, just recently, someone on 1 of the gen sites had a different gold dial transplanted into his ss case. But, as always, anything is possible with vintage Rolex.

Interesting. Are you aware that Rolex only installed gold dials in gold cases?

Sorry to hear about the problems, but, short of apprenticing with a master watchmaker, that is the best way to learn.

Your movement will look slightly different, but, basically, the set lever has a pin that sits in a channel in the stem &, normally, it is locked into place when the locking pin or screw is engaged or tightened. In your case, the locking pin or screw was not set correctly, which allowed the locking pin to slip out of the channel in the stem & that allowed the stem to slide out of the movement. So, now, it will only slide back in to the 1st position, which is why you are unable to set the time (2nd position). With the caseback removed, you may be able to loosen the locking screw or depress the pin & reinstall the stem. If not, the movement will need to be uncased, the hands/dial removed & then the stem can be installed & the locking pin/screw properly engaged to lock the stem in place.

Either the stem was not locked in the movement & it fell out or the stem broke off. In either case, you will need to remove the caseback. In the case of the former possibility, you will need to loosen or press the stem locking device, reinsert the stem & then lock it in place. In the case of the latter possibility, you will need to purchase a new stem & install it. If you lack the tools/knowledge, I would take it to a local watchmaker (an easy fix for a watchmaker).

Rolex Bexley is only following the business model that began in Rolex New York (with the assistance of the (supposedly anti-monopolistic) US government) in the early 90s. Up until a few years ago, I could still buy parts from Bexley & other Rolex centers in the EU. But that has changed. And, unfortunately, I believe this policy (of not providing support for vintage models (those made more than 30 years ago)) is becoming Rolex company policy internationally.

The author makes some good (though a bit hackneyed, for those who have been collecting for awhile) points. However, if vintage Rolex watches/parts were cheap & easily accessible, they would be Coach. And who wants a Coach (not me). Anyone who has seen the travesties employed against vintage Rolex watches by so-called indy 'Master' watchmakers can understand why Rolex has taken such seemingly draconian measures to protect their brand. Though, as an amateur watchmaker, I can see the other side, too. After all, many competent watchmakers are being pushed out of business by Rolex's actions. What is the answer? Probably, the best option would be for Rolex to begin supporting their vintage models (like Patek & Mercedes do) with service & parts availability, at least within their own service network. That way, vintage Rolex owners would not be forced, increasingly, to turn to the dark side (non-Rolex sources) for parts & repairs.

For the record, the Chinese holiday shutdown affects shippers there, too. So you can probably add about 2 weeks to your normal wait. Things should clear up by the 10th.

If you have a drill press, cobalt bits & some oil, you can drill an He valve without much trouble. Read this.

Check ebay.

I suspect these 500s (especially the Abarths) are going to put a serious dent in Mini sales. To stay on topic, some additional views of the Sub I am wearing today

Good to see you & your GMT back in the wristies, By-Tor.

Fiat 500? Nice.

Movement looks good.

Good points! It goes without saying that, ideally, I would go the Spaceview route. After all, if it was not for the Spaceview, Accutron would never have become the icon that it is & my lust has been for the Spaceview design, not Accutron's technology. But this watch came to me by way of a close relative, so I am not sure I want to change it. But I am still going back & forth, so we shall see.

Price has nothing to do with legitimacy. It is only legit if the seller discloses the fact that the dial is not genuine. He can price it as he sees fit.

At long last, I have in my possession an authentic Accutron 214 'tuning fork' watch Here is a backside view showing the 214's unique caseback, with its pull-out time-setting handle (left), screw-down battery cover (right) & serial/date code (below) In the early 1960s, a relative got 1 of the 1st Accutron Spaceviews & I can still remember the amazement of hearing the watch hum when he held it up to my ear. Now, the question is whether to remove the dial & fit a Spaceview crystal/handset (a Spaceview is essentially an Accutron without a dial) or just overhaul & tidy it up?

Wearing my pre-Comex while pondering the options with my new Accutron 214