freddy333

6538

As explained above, the rivets used in US-made bracelets are hollow while the Swiss-made bracelets have solid rivets. This, along with the width of the center links, is how the 2 can be identified (& differentiated). 7206 or 6636 with (integrated) 80 end links were spec'd for early 5513s. A folded link 9315 with (integrated) 280 or 380 ends were spec'd for mid-range 5513s (a 9315 with 380s is what I have on my pre-Comex 5513). A solid link 93150 with 580s was spec'd for the final 5513 series. The bracelet in your pic looks like a 7206 (or 6636 - they look the same) with 58 end links, which, while not officially spec'd, do fit as you can see. You will likely have problems fitting the proper 2mm dia springbars into Yuki's 7206 bracelet (though, while you may destroy a springbar or 2 in the process, it can be done), but, otherwise, it is almost an exact copy of the gen. They are so close that I often get them confused (I posted a review of the bracelet a few years ago with a bunch of comparison pics that you can search out). I would avoid getting the spring version as they are extremely uncomfortable &, while they look like the gen, as soon as you put both on the difference is immediately apparent (the gen pulls your arm hairs in a silky smooth manner, while Yuki's plucks them out with stiff, tight & ill-fitting ease).

Now, I am impressed. Best crown I have seen on an aftermarket Comex caseback. Any chance you would sell 1 of these casebacks separately?

Very nice Arabic red.

It looks alot like Phong's (which is designed to fit a Rolex movement). Can you post a good, clear full-frontal macro of the exterior of the caseback?

There is no such thing as a perfect 62xx Daytona case. Unless someone has a set of good, clear macro pics of a newly manufactured gen (fyi - 62xx Daytonas have not been made since the 80s), we are left to copy these watches as they look today. Since most have been polished to varying degrees by people with variable abilities & purposes, I think you have alot of latitude to play with.

TeeJay - I agree. Your collection has become quite mouth-watering, so I think it is time to improve your picture-taking skills to do them justice.

It depends on the country. In most western countries, it is illegal to engage in the sale or transport (for the purpose of sale) of fraudulently trademarked goods. However, it is generally not illegal to possess fraudulently trademarked goods.

True, but remember that until Eric Clapton sold-off the bulk of his Rolex collection, models such as the Yacht-Master Daytona, like the albino '42, previously thought to be nothing more than legends, were proven authentic. Additionally & more importantly, if Stefano Mazzariol is convinced Rolex made an albino 6542, then so am I.

Without knowing who serviced it last or whether they used the correct type/amount of oil I can only tell you that when in doubt, do not do anything. That is, leave the oil where it is & reinstall the stem as-is. To answer your next question (now that I removed the oil, do I need to get it serviced) - no.

It is probably oil & quite normal to see it on the stem.

Your efforts show.

6536/1

Still wearing my 6536/1 Bond Sub

If it consistently resets at the same wrong position, you will need to remove & reinstall the hand. If it resets at different places, then the hand wand is likely loose on its tube. You need to tighten (with a staking set) or epoxy the joint together There are MANY threads discussing this issue that you should search out.

The more I look at it, the more I think the dial is new/aftermarket, regardless of whether the red was done by the factory or added later.

Glad to hear all is well, Ken.