freddy333

That unit is really intended for small tools & not movements, at least not assembled movements. A much better option would be working versions of either item 180217280682 or item 360026228511, both of which are designed to demagnetize a watch (or tool). I did not know they were still being made, but I just found what appears to be a new Han-D-Mag on ebay, item 270213954210. So if you have an old tape deck, this might be a better option since it will have dual uses.

Unless both rotors are fixed to their respective movement's auto-wind modules by way of the same screw & the size/shape of both rotors (including the gearing on their undersides) are exactly the same, no. If there is a problem with the auto-wind function, replace the movement (or watch). If not, like they say........if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And for whatever it is worth, I think it is a mistake to automatically dismiss a POS (piece of s-h-i-t) movement just because it was made in Asia or does not have ball bearings in the rotor. Some of my best friends lack ball-bearings (or have POS movements in them). For example, I was able to adjust this non-ball-bearing rotor watch (which was described in a recent tip on demagnetizing) to within +/-1 secs/day, which is well within COSC specs (many ETAs (with ball-bearing rotors) cannot do that) Similar case with this old friend (which was described in my 1st diy He valve post) -- POS movement timed not quite to +/-1 sec/day, but definitely within COSC specs & it has maintained that for several years of beater use (prior to my DRSD taking over that job a year ago) In fact & I will probably get flamed for saying this, but I have had more problems with ETAs (with ball-bearing rotors) in reps than any other movement (though most of the problems can be sourced back to the fact that rep factories tend to use (unserviced) 2nd hand movements). The biggest problem with POS movements is getting parts for them.

If you need a pearl for a vintage Sub or Seadweller (no metal surround), Search for 'Illumines Dot'. If you need a pearl for a modern watch (pearl surrounded by metal), you will probably need to replace the insert (I only deal with vintage models, so someone else will have to recommend a good source for these).

Looks fine.

I was testing a watch that was producing real strange readings on my timer, so I decided to demagnetize it (which I should have done in the 1st place). For those of you who do not know what a watch demagnetizer is or how important it is to getting & keeping a watch in proper running order, I will just say that a watch demagnetizer is as important to a watchmaker as a hammer is to a carpenter. Indespensible. So I put the watch on the demagnetizer & pulled the trigger, but.........uh oh........nothing.........dead watch demagnifier (get it?.....pulled the trigger--dead demagnetizer......sorry, bad joke). So, I was about to buy a new one when I realized that I have an old Annis Han-D-Mag tape head demagnetizer that I used to use to demagnetize the heads on home/studio tape decks (remember those?). So I pulled it out of my audio gear & blew the layer of dust off. Then, while holding the Han-D-Mag upside-down (red tip pointing down), I plugged it in & slowly brought the watch (dial up) down onto the base of the Han-D-Mag I slowly rotated the watch around on the base & then slowly drew the watch an arm's length away before unplugging the Han-D-Mag. Voila, demagnetized watch! A quick retest on the timer & beat error & timing are now nearly perfect on a watch that looked to be gravely ill just minutes ago. Pretty good for a minute of work & without even having to crack open the case. Moral -- If your watch is behaving erratically or running abnormally (more than a minute/day) fast, it may very well be magnetized & a quick treatment with a demagnetizer may be all it needs. Moral 2 -- If you have a good reel-to-reel tape head (or video tape) demagnetizer (most cassette deck head demags do not produce a sufficiently strong magnetic field to do the job), you may not need to spend additional money for a watch demagnetizer.

You will have alot of trouble locating the proper tube for that crown (assuming it is a genuine vintage part), and, if you do, it will probably be very expensive. I agree with the others that a modern 703 is the way to go. This is the part that Rolex would fit to the watch during a normal service.

Sorry, but it looks like crap to me. Like everything else I have received from that seller, who is also a lier & a thief.........but I digress. Try this one instead. I have the insert on the left (with an Illumines Dot from ofrei.com) on this

Ending the week with a blue beater

Even better, the buyer posted pics of his new watch on TZ (which were immediately blasted down). Too bad, though, because for someone that does not know alot about vintage Rolexes, it is a pretty watch.

I agree with Pugwash -- get an Explorer 1 or Air King since neither has a date (the date never looks correct out of the box) or other complications. But before you do anything, I would go to your local AD & try some of the gens on to see how they look & feel. Also, research available dial colors & bracelet variations to be sure you do not end up getting a rep variation that Rolex never actually produced (if accuracy is that important to you).

What happened to the metalized datewheels for ETA 2846 Subs & Seadwellers that I thought were in production a month or so ago from the same source?

I have 2 non-MBW 1019 reps & both measure about 35mm excluding the crown. Other than by its reduced weight, non-Rolex winding feel/sound or newish condition, I seriously doubt whether anyone could ID 1 of these reps by sight since they are so plain Here is a gen for comparison I have seen at least 3 versions of this rep, each with a slightly different dial. I have a black dialed version that has the word 'Milgauss' in a smaller font, which is incorrect Also, the case used for this rep is thicker than a vintage gen Datejust -- either 160x or 160xx. At some point, my plan is to swap out the current Asian POS movement for a slow-beat 2846, install a gen Twinlock crown/tube (if I can find the correct 5mm crown, that would be an option), change the bezel's polished finish to a brushed finish (may do that tonight) & install the correct Plexi crystal.

You will need to research the specs yourself, but they are the same as the gen.

As far as I know, the only functional difference between the 2 movements is that the 1580 has 1 additional jewel. Otherwise, they are physically the exact same size & operate at 19.8bph. I do not have an MBW 1019 (I would consider getting one if you find someone selling them for a reasonable price), but I do not see why it would not fit as long as the MBW case is the same dimensions as the gen.

Before buying the pair, did you check Stan's listings? I cannot compare prices since you did not list the specific model number you are considering, but he has some clasps for sale & his stuff is top quality.

Click here or search ebay for Rolex Daytona 6263 (or 6265)..

Until reps become legally traded commodities (which I do not see happening anytime during my lifetime), I do not think it is a good idea to post anything that could be used to locate members since these pages are now publicly available. Just 2 words (for public comment) -- RIAA & Napster.

Ignore if this is obvious, but are you logging in with your email (instead of your handle)?

Beater Tuesday

I can see why your watchmaker thinks it is a rep bracelet. However, everything except the clasp looks like the real thing to me. The only part I would question is the clasp. Unfortunately, I do not have a 78360 on hand to make a direct comparison, but the pressings & engravings on the clasp do not look quite right to me. Yes, the crown on the outer clasp may have been worn down by repeated polishings. However, if that was the case, I would expect to see at least a little wear on the 2 inside polished sections as well. There is none. But, more importantly, the Rolex insignia that is pressed into your clasp looks different than any of the pressings on any of my gens. Here is a better picture of the pressed-in insignia on your clasp So either I am wrong about the clasp & the bracelet is 100% gen (likely) or yours is the 2nd bracelet I have seen where someone fit a rep clasp to an otherwise gen bracelet (less likely).

And a good, clear picture of the side of the clasp would help as well.

Always a problem with Langes. If someone ever makes an accurate Lange 1 rep, they will be swamped with orders.

Am I the only person who verifies tracking numbers as soon as I receive them? Especially, for an unknown seller & even more especially when an unknown seller demands payment by WU only.

Pretty watch, even if it is inaccurate.

Make sure the clutch lever is seated properly in the 'groove' in the clutch. Otherwise, when you pull the stem out to the winding or time-setting positions, it may not be seating properly. Also, move the stem out to the 1st position (date change setting) & be sure you are turning the date wheel in the right direction. Turned in the wrong direction can result in exactly the problem you described.