freddy333

Considering your premise, I think you did very well. 1 thing though - until you replace the pearl, I would lose the 1 that is in there now. Oh &, if you want to mimic the strap from Goldfinger, the Bond strap should be 16mm

Hard to tell from that pic, but it looks like it may be a 1940s Precision. Value, depending on model & internal condition is probably somewhere between several hundred & 2 grand. If you can get better pics (all sides & the movement with caseback removed) & the numbering between the lugs, I can probably give you more info.

Works for me.

Typical fake. Most telling give-away are the (too-)serifed 'cowboy' fonts. Research some gens & you will see what I am talking about.

A couple of suggestions - 1st, either tilt the watch or move the camera away from it so you do not see (or get so much of) the camera's reflection on the xtal. Sometimes, due to ambient lighting conditions, it is best to move the shoot to a different location. So instead of taking the picture on your desk, move outside & wait until late afternoon when the sun is just starting to set (this is called 'the golden hour' in picture taking circles). You will get the best light then. 2nd, set the size of the picture to the camera's largest setting so you can back far away from the watch. Then, you can crop the image down to remove the excess, leaving the watch image the same size it is now. Taking the pic with the camera so close makes it nearly impossible to avoid seeing the camera in the xtal. Sometimes, for the sake of a great pic, you gotta do what you gotta do. But, in most cases, it is best to either tilt the watch or move the camera back. 3rd, read your camera's entire owner's manual & practice, practice, practice. Knowing how to properly use your camera will go a long way to taking great pics. Once you learn the basics of good picture-taking, like driving a car, it becomes 2nd nature. By the way, most of my pics are taken with a 12 year-old 4MP Canon point-&-shoot.

When the school opened, the though crossed my mind as well. But, unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), I have a well-established career & live too far away to commute. Good luck & enjoy the experience.

1st, you have to learn to position the watch (vs camera & light source) so there is a minimum of reflection on the xtal. Then, if the dial details look a bit washed out due to ambient light, you can select the dial area in your photo editing program & up the contrast over it to increase the details. You have to be careful not to overboost the contrast, though, because it will make the dial look too dark &/or artificial. It is a balancing act that can sometimes remedy an otherwise good pic or create an odd looking questionable 1.

Blurry, out-of-focus, dark or distant pics are generally spell a scam.

Proper xtal for the '42 is the 115 (116 for 1675). Hard to be 100% either way about the clasp (still think it is new manufacture), but I would dispute most of his claims. I am not poo-pooing the watch - it was lovely - just citing some issues with the seller's description. And considering he has since removed the item, I think he probably agreed.

Considering the parts cost vs franken value, I would have just bought the gen. Still, well done.

Hands, bracelet, xtal & dw look aftermarket.

The worn out Rolex part that sells for thousands today was tossed into the bin without a 2nd thought up until a few years ago. Interesting how fashion changes.

Please do not re-quote an entire set of pics just to add a line or 2 below it. Thanks.

MQ. No, which is why, although I love 62xx Newman Daytonas, they would not be my 1st choice for a beater.

The newer (blingey'r) Daytonas are certainly more 'dressy', but the old 62xx series were not called 'tool' watches for nothing.

Hodinkee contains alot of great Rolex info, but I would disagree with the author's premise. Although the Daytona is an iconic watch & the 1 that I would most like to keep (as a beautiful collectible), for everyday wear, I would probably opt for the 1665 Seadweller, which is less fiddly & more hearty.

You should use the Search feature. This website has been cited for over a decade now & there are many threads referencing it.

I do not think that dial is faded. It just looks that way due to the ambient light & faded appearance of the bezel insert.

Looks like the start of a great build.

Welcome & please read item 5 under posting. There are scads of threads detailing how to learn about Subs, but, in a nutshell, visit your local authorized Rolex dealer (AD), try some on, work them to see how they look/feel & then spend some time viewing gens online so you know how to tell the differences between gens & reps. If you have specific questions, post them here & you will receive plenty of help. Good luck.