freddy333

I would not change anything on that case.

If the final dial is accurate & MY is able to replicate the original dial's patina, it will be a beauty. But matching that patina without it looking manufactured will be the key.

That is what it looks like. You can check out details here.

If the stem does not lock in, either you did not insert it all the way in before locking it or you bent/misaligned a component in the keyless works. If you are comfortable decasing the movement and removing the hands/dial, you should easily be able to see what the problem is. If not, post a good, clear macro of the area & someone should be able to guide you. If in doubt, you should wait until you find a good watchmaker to handle this.

According to Rolex, any Rolex with a single non-gen part is a franken (ie., not a genuine Rolex). That is the definition most use.

Best non-gen 62xx Daytona dials I know of come from MQ (see cc33's post above for link). Very pricey, but the best usually is. All MQ dials

There are various levels of frankens, too. From a rep with a single gen part to a gen with a single aftermarket part - both are frankens, & there may be myriad reasons why frankens are made, sought after & collected. But, in the end, I think it simply boils down to an envious pursuit of perfection.

A gold gen 62xx Daytona for $30k? That would be the deal of the century! Prices generally run in the $50k-$250k range, with Newmans sitting near the top of that range.

Ditto alligoat (as usual). The Venus movements are generally very reliable (not sure about the Asian copy though?), but will likely need an overhaul (rep watches rarely contain new or properly serviced (used) movements). Replace the crown/tube with gens &, possibly, if you are especially enterprising, also the dial coronet & you have a nice looking gem........at least until the gold wears off revealing the underlying steel. By the way, these are Newman dials -

Sorry, those are not Newmans. Just standard 62xx Daytonas.

Wearing my Bond Sub today

Yes & no, not if you know how to use a press. If in doubt, have a watchmaker install the xtal for you. Better safe than sorry.

Nicely done. Wear it in good health.

I would not trust any type of putty/clay to provide sufficient torque to make a waterproof seal. Even those soft balls that are made to close casebacks may be insufficient. Just sayin'.

rolexuk - Please read item 25.

Remove the movement, press the existing xtal out from the inside (with your thumbs). In most cases, you will need to reuse the rep xtal gasket, so do not lose or tear it (the gen gasket may be too large to fit a rep case). You will probably need a rubber-jawed hobby vice or crystal press to press the gen xtal into the case. Clean xtal & reinstall movement. I think there are a couple of threads detailing the procedure that you can search out.

Congratulations. Like the others, I prefer the matte dials, but it looks like a solid Sub.

On its own, I like the previous insert more, but, on the watch, this 1 is a perfect match. A keeper.

Great pic, Nanuq! I like how you can see the horizon's reflection in the xtal.