Ephry73

Shoot me a PM Dave. E

No fee?

That peek at 12:01 is a bad tell

Very nice

Rob, details please E

Seiko 7002-700A in oyster for a change

Sub Saturday

Source?

Compression pin

Submariner day for me. The more I wear it, the more I need to thin down the heard.

Welcome to my ship Garrett, where we are still searching for the cheap alternative. Lol. All jokes aside, the $350 is negotiable(you can submit an offer) but they never accept one for less than 300. I would be more than willing to do a group buy. I meed one for a bog crown build.

I have been running since military school. Off and on that is. Shoes are one thing you HAVE to spend good money on. Good running shoes should be used just for running and nothing else. That said, depending on your running style and mileage, a good pair of running shoes should last about 300-400 miles. After that there is just not enough support and too much give. Im a heavier guy now and only running about 20-25 miles a week, but I find that Brooks Beast shoes are lasting and offer great support. $130 for a pair or less with a coupon. The Brooks GTS for a lighter person are very good and are a lot less expensive. As said before, match the "outfits" to the shoes and be healthy. Good socks and a custom insole for your foot type will pay great dividends in more running as well as faster times. Just my .02 cents.

It does, but always keep in mind the ultimate goal. Imagine the watch you want, collect pictures and images of that particular build and aim for it. Sometimes you will find really good prices on gen parts that ultimately you won't need(like me for example) If you want a pristine looking watch, sort of like a safe queen, then new, or almost new parts are what you need. The TC parts are good, very good even. If you buy the case kit from TC, crown, tube and all, plus his 93250 bracelet(I suggest the V2/V3 combo pack) then all you need is a gen dial, hands, movement and insert for your franken. If you don't want to go with the gen movement and dial/hands, then buy the TC ETA dial and hands and source a serviced gen ETA and gen insert. TCs 2824 ETA already has the tall cannon stack, which makes the watch look tons more legit. More importantly, set a budget for yourself. An honest one, then add 60% to that and you will have spending money. Patience is key when trying to save cash. Good luck and ask away brother. E

Where did you get those gold 'big buddle seconds hand' hands? That looks sweet after sanding E

Sounds good. Thanks for indulging me guys.

Looks like the yuki case with a different crown. Almost like an Athaya crown. The pearl on the insert is definitely suspect. Can you take the bezel apart?

Any time brother. Any time. The hardest part is finding the right date code. E

Sneed, thanks brother. That is what I was looking to build, a nice franken GMTII with a gen bezel assembly and a good serviced movement. One with the CHS, but one that would not self destruct. E

I love this reference and I use it all of the time. I managed to source a gen 93150 clasp with diver's extension for my 16800(fits the year code perfectly) but I need to know what the part number is for the springbars on the clasp. I want to install new ones ads the clasp is GEN and these are probably in dire need of replacement. The clasp is still on its way to me. E

Ryan, I think what you need to figure out first is what model Submariner you want. Once you have that knowledge, then you can source cases/parts to build said model. a 16800 case is slimmer and has a shallower rehaut than that of a 16610 case. An older 16610 will have different bracelet, crown and crystal, as well as bezel insert combination, than say a more modern 16610(LV for example) where the case will have no lugholes, no engraving in the rehaut and different crown setup. LEC crystal versus plain crystal, AR cyclops, versus non, flat 4 versus pointy 4 on the insert, etc.... This is of course without tackling the daunting list of dials you can use, Maxi, vs non-maxi, Swiss T <25, vs T Swiss T, etc... Bracelet choices also vary, including the different case profiles and end link combinations. I prefer the fit of the 16800, as it wears very comfortably, but the 16610 is my almost daily beater.

I see it, I really do. E

I hear you M. But, could it be done?

A crazy thought about the BP GMT II and gen bezel assembly, but what about a gen like movement? Then I thought of the y3135 and how I have enjoyed the serviced movement. I wonder what it would take to turn this movement into a GMT movement to make a decent modern GMT franken. Thoughts?

The y3135 once serviced is excellent. Expect no less than $430 once purchased and serviced. The trick is knowing where to spend the money. With the Y3135 you can use the gen parts and leave them be. Thus, keeping their value as you don't have to cut dial feet etc... My serviced y3135 has been running strong at +/1 4-6 seconds a day. The one for Duke's 16660 build about the same. E TC franken on the right using a bigcrown double AR crystal and the ST 3135 franken of mine on the left.

OD is 28.6mm ID is 33.05mm retainer OD is 33.1mm Looks like it may also fit a standard paperclip arrangement E