Tom Hawkes

So the bezel gasket that might be too thin to be good for anything is OKIDOKI if you grease it up and throw the whole thing into the water? Great! And the remarks about how disassembling the case and putting it back together might get it just out of round enough to cause problems cause after all it's just friction fitted? No problem I guess.. But you are right of course. People shouldn't answer me. At least when it's going to be 'well I dont care about WR'. Rather lets have some more '005 is out of stock' threads.

Oh boy.. Really, wolf? Cause YOU said everyone who does so rolls the dice. So I asked if anyone did anyway. Believe it or not, I do actually take your opinion seriously. No sh*t, Sherlock.. My comment regarding the 300m divers watch was in regard to the previous post stating: He is talking about why anyone would want to get a PAM wet. No talk of a rep. Neither on his end, nor on mine. A Luminor is not exactly a dress watch, SO WHY ON EARTH WOULD ANYONE WOULD GET IT WET? Hahaha, oh wow.. This thread was merely meant to investigate if anyone did have any problems with WR, if anyone did actually test the WR and if anyone did anything to improve the case construction problem. All concerns raised by you wolf... So are you guys kidding me with your "if you want to go diving buy a gen" comments? Nowhere did I say I expect the same of a 200 USD rep that I would from the 5000 USD gen.. I was even talking about rinsing it under the faucet. So if you guys don't have anything to add, why not keep the "get a gen" and "why do you need WR" comments for yourself?

Oh come one guys, all this drama over nothing... You really think our chinese friends will stop selling their topsellers...?

You do realize you are talking about a 300m divers watch that comes standard with a rubber strap, right? Besides that, how pitiful is it, if you can't even rinse your (rep ultimate 1:1 super duper) divers watch under the faucet?

It never is my friend..

+1 Not what I expected. BUT is this the rumored 360 from the H-factory? Because if it is that means they are now using 6497-2.. (It's a high beat one, no? Two screws under balance wheel. But the wheel should be smaller I guess?) Everyone better sell his/her 005 etc. before the new ones hit the market then..

Stop with the sugar coated turd reference!

The only thing you could do is flatten the CP but other than that there isn't anything you could mod on it.. and that for 200 USD! Have a read on the countless reviews on the watch..

Guys.. Read my initial post again.. This is not a newb asking you if my watch is good to go for a 200 meters dive. The case construction on the H-factory reps is different from the gen and the gasket that has been used between the top part and middle case is half as thin as the one on the caseback according to some members who know their stuff and have taken some apart.. So the questions are: 1. Did anyone test their watch (after greasing the seals and tightening the caseback ) and see if there was any problem due to the case construction? Such as the decompression popping the bezel or having water leak from under the bezel. 2. Did anyone try to avoid the case construction problem by fusing the top and middle case together with (for example) epoxy.

I'm wondering: how many people did test the water resistance of their new H-factory reps? (005, 318, 219, 177) Did anyone try to make the case more waterproof by glueing the top bezelpart and middlecase together with epoxy or something similar? From what I have read so far the makers used the case construction of the 47mm cases and together with the extremely thin gasket between the topcase and middlecase that might prove to be problematic. (See the posts from w0lf at RG for example.)

I opened a thread about this a couple of months ago.. Klick it like Beckham.

Oh, so most of the rep cases are built like that? I thought all the cartel cases are built like the gen and only the 47s and the H-factory cases are built with the bezel being part of the case.. ?

The superlume is a giveaway.

No. Noobfactory has gen like case construction. H- factory: Crystal sits in bezel, bezel and middle case are friction fitted. (Acurate for 1950s and (some) Radiomirs afaik, but not for Luminor cases.) Noobfactory: Crystal sits in middlecase, bezel goes on the middlecase around the crystal. (Accurate for Luminors.)

LOL.

But it's AEROmarine.. :b

I'm soo looking forward to the 000..

The letter after the model number tells you which year the watch was released on the gen. (Example: 005H, 005J, 005K and so on..) The best rep version of this watch comes from the so called H-factory and their version has a K serial number. Thus the best version to get is the 005K. Your link points to this version. (See: Serial KXXXX/1200 in the description.) This watch takes straps with 24mm lugwidth. The provided leather strap is pretty good though from what I hear. The rubberstrap is supposed to be the best rep version of the gen rubber strap.

It doesn't get better than the 005 at the moment. The watch looks better out of the box than most highly modded watches out there (imho). I think Perfect Clones doesn't have it on stock but on reorder though. (Be sure to get the 005K!) There are numerous reviews and pictures of the watch in this section. Search around..

Breitling Seawolf, blue dialed gen. Not sure if the blue dial was repped but the black dial is a (supposedly) 1:1 rep. Since you have been around for 15 years and have access to all the gen parts why not buy this and get the gen blue dial? 44 or 45 mm, numbers on dial, Pro 2 bracelett, st. steel case.. The guys from the Panerai section spray their dials with varnish to make it matte.. If this dial is too matte spray it with varnish to make it

Mike: There is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing a rep (or rather watch) thats not accurate to the gen counterpart. I have had a couple of reps that werent accurate at all myself, but I liked the watch itself. So that's totally OK in my book.. The reason why people are "caring" is: - You post QC pics with low post count and without further comment. - People try to "help" and point out "flaws" and point you to the "right" direction. - You say that you don't care about flaws, that you will get rid of the logo, that you bought the watch just cause it is the only one with a blue dial and numbers and in steel. - People tell you that it would be cheaper to buy a gen which will fit your criteria... - Again you don't care about gens or the watch being accurate, but still want to "tinker" with gen parts.. The only reason why you would try to source rare and expensive parts that wont fit anyway, is to make the watch more accurate. You see? Doesn't make much sense. But go ahead, be happy and have fun. The pictures I posted were just to show you that there are a bunch of steel Breitlings with blue dial and numbers. The great thing about the blue dialed Breitlings is that the colour of the blue varies a lot depending on the light and the angle you look at it. So what you see on the picture is NOT what you get. They are either 41 or 42 mm. (With exception of the bottom two. Old models with 38 or 40 mm.) Whats your problem with GMT? Is that another criteria? No GMT? It's steel, blue dial, numbers on dial.. All logos are WHITE gold on the gens. Not yellow gold. All of them can be put on a Professional 1 OR Professional 2 bracelett. (With maybe the superocean being the exception. The bottom two only fit the professional 1 bracelett.) The one without the pearl is the new GMT. All of the watches are gens. If your watch has to be 44 mm than you don't have any other choice than the watch you bought. Unless it can be quartz and chrono (I know, you don't likey chrono.. But the Skyland that plaifender mentioned doesn't even come in blue dial, so..) Anyway: Don't feel insulted when people try to help you and have fun with your purchase. That's the most important thing.

The one from the swan neck? LOL. While regulating mine the past two days I took the swan neck completely off, because I was afraid that little wobbly screw might come loose and fall in the movement while wearing.. A real bummer for you, but now I'm glad I did it.

A few people had problems, most didn't. Maybe give it a little slap against your palm? Also this wouldn't be a problem of the 005 movement but of the A6497-1 movement in general if at all (from the H-factorys supplier). If the movement is really dead, just get a Seagull A6497-2 for 40 USD and you are good for the next years.

So let me get this straight: You buy a watch that's completely off, because it is the only one in the world that will fit your criteria. You are going to buy gen parts for it (which I guarantee wont fit), but you don't care about it being a Breitling and would even remove the logos. That doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but go ahead.. Considering what your tries and definive errors are going to cost you and the time it will consume you could have just bought a gen Colt for around 800 Euros.. Could be a case of Post-purchase rationalization though.. If you like the watch you bought as it is, sure, fine. But why try to put gen parts on it? Especially if you dont want the logos on it since it's not accurate?!