bruce79

But it might be better to just get your existing movement serviced. A good servicing from someone like The Zigmeister will set your movement straight plus you know that it's good for at least 3 more years. The cost of the new movement is probably at least that of a service...just a thought.

Come on, there have got to be pics?

I say go for the quick fix now with as little case modding as possible.

Well, first off the gen bezel will not fit our reps, except for the vintage MBW stuff. There are TONS of threads about this very question. As for the click, there are two mechanisms, one for the tw and one for the cn. Again, there is a lot written about this and a few suggestions for improving it. I would just reccommend polishing it up really well and enjoy.

Have you been successful in removing the existing hev yet? Once you're sure it can be removed without destroying the case, you should measure the existing hev valve because that's what the case can hold. The rep case is not as thick as the gen so the rep hev is probably smaller than the gen too.

Thanks, it looks as though there are a few folks here that carry the 580 folded ends but the incorrect loose end link for the 16800. The number is 78360. I think I'll use them anyways though.

This is my first time reading this thread but I can say that from what I've heard, applying lume is no easy task and is in fact, pretty tedious. Anyway, can't wait to see the finished dial.

I'm sorry, is the 93150 with 580 a solid end link or a hollow end link. Thanks

Can't wait...I'm gonna start saving now.

Perhaps someone could tell me if the 16800 with the transitional dial (circa late 80's) came with hollow end links or solid end links? Thanks

I don't know if it's as easy as just swapping the hevs. From what I've heard from the modders here, there is not really a way to get the hev out as it is cemented in and you'll risk ruining the case to get it out. I had a tw sd and really wanted to swap the hev with a accurate model but decided against it. If someone manages to get it out, let me know

Don't know what to tell you. It's not a good idea to take your watch apart if you don't know what you're doing. Try sending it to one of the trusted watchsmiths on the board. Good Luck

beautiful watch, classic

An old acquaintance of a few years back was, and probably still, is a regional sales associate for Roger Dubuis (SWUS). I was hanging with him before I found this site and before I knew anything about watches. He was a friend of a friend that I'd run into ever once in a while. Anyway, he would always have on these Roger Dubuis watches and he'd tell me, 'This one's about $35k...this one is $75k' I didn't know what they were then but the sheer cost of them blew me away. When I asked, he'd often let me try them on and wear them for a while throughout the evening. He told me a story...he once had to take a RD watch valued and over $200k to a client in Mexico City for a viewing. He was so scared of getting his bags stolen that he carried it in his pocket. He's told the story several times and he always trips out every time he tells it. Anyway, thought I'd share. I too would love to see some decent RD reps.

Your album rocks.

Inserts are often glued to the bezel on reps...even mbw's I suppose. Just take a screwdiver and pry it up gently from the inside/underside of the bezel. It should come up fairly easy...then you must clean the glue off of the bezel.

Are there any recommendations out of these bits? Cobalt Bits

I happened to be in LA this weekend for business and was staying at the standard...anyways, there was this beautiful woman at the pool and I noticed she was wearing a sub, full size of course. I must say that it looked fine on her (ref. size) and was quite attractive.

Good question, I know that the cylops can be removed and reglued but am not quite sure which glue is used...I'm curious myself. For cyclops removal, I've heard a little heat and a razor blade will do the trick though I have not tried it yet so maybe some of the experts can confirm this.

No, the insert will have to be sanded down a bit around the outside and quite a bit more underneath. You might want to practice first on a crappy insert before you try it on a better insert. It takes tons of patience. Good Luck

I'm noticing the cgs...look a little thick for my taste. Look how the front of the cg wraps around the crown...that sh*t ain't right. Pics are not good...

LV SUB

You can get a gen dial out there but where I know of will cost you upwards of $500. You might just want to get a cheap sub from Trusty and swap dials. How did you rework the cgs, did you just do the inside? What drill bits did you use and how did you polish them up afterwards? Thanks

Count me in too Ubi, thanks.

Can I ask where you got your sd from? Thanks