blue.

Update Yesterday I had the opportunity to consult my watchmaker, who is working inside a boutique, Authorized Dealer for Tudors, Pam´s, Omega´s ... you name it. They told me everything is correct as it is and then he took off his Panerai and invited to test the winding resistance. It is no comparison to the ETA 2824 but, at least there was some winding resistance... A side note, I certainly would not bring rep parts or watches to such AD watchmaker. What I had brought was just the genuine ETA movement, nothing more. They had a tiny grin in their face, probably because they have not seen any customer bringing a naked movement with the correct ETA parts (cannon pinions in different sizes) asking for replacement of parts etc. All they service and repair are high end watches that are being sold in that boutique. Thank you everyone for the opinions!

Hmm, maybe it is something with "B", FxrAndy. Thanks for the opinions! Got to consult my watchmaker regarding this topic. It indeed feels like something is not winding correctly inside when screwing the crown in, metal rubbing on metal (even when the movement is not cased).

Thank you for the reply FxrAndy, Ceejay! The manual wind does work, it is just that the winding resistance is quite new to me (seems high). The movement has been on a service to change cannon pinions from H2 to H3 heights. The watchmaker didn´t mention that anything is wrong with the movement. Who knows ... but it is is possible to hand wind for sure ... I see the castle wheel has specific teeth that engage a corresponding wheel in the keyless, if that other wheel is turned in the opposite side the castle wheel would not be engaged in the 0 position (handwind position) ... It would be too much risk to do this change ... I would leave it as it was meant to be for now.

Hello, I have a genuine ETA 2824-2 that I both a couple of months ago. Would like to disable the manual/hand wind function because that ETA is going to be placed in a case that has a screw down crown. I had tested it before in the case but as I try to screw the crown the manual wind starts winding the mainspring that is already automatically winded and the crown gets pretty "stiff", not letting me screw it fully. After 1 day or so not wearing the watch, after the mainspring has lost a bit of energy, the crown moves free and can be screwed fully to the tube of the case. My stem is fitted correctly with the right length. Would like to ask what lever/part should be removed from the keyless works so the manual wind is disabled, but the seconds hack is still present? Thank you in advance

JMB´s case is very very nice! I would warmly recommend you that case, as a lot of people have built 1016 Franken`s based on it (me inclusive). It will accept a dial up to 28mm (at a max 28,26mm the "game is over"). Smaller than 28mm dials are not recommended! Don´t worry if you find a nice dial but in 29mm (a pricey example is NDtrading/Minh ... for example). Dials can be downsized, if you have the right tools and know-how! Though, it is hard to up size a dial that is too small for a specific case. In this case someone with the right tools and knowledge has to lathe you a precise fitting ring around the dial (stepped and glued to the dial). Something like the movement spacer ring, but flatter and tighter! Here is some example from the internet on how to downsize a dial: You would need a "mainplate" on which you would attach the dial with it´s dial feet, locked* (very important) in the slots where they belong to! In the middle part of the "mainplate" you need to attach a screw/bolt etc., centred very precise of course. Then attach it to a drill/dremel with slow speed and with a not too rough grade sandpaper attached to a hard surface (for a precise filed dial edge) you can slowly start to file down the edge. Key moment is to have a "vacuum cleaner" (with small socket) catching the fine dust right near the edge where you sand, to avoid the precious dial to get pretty dirty and uncleanable! *Have a look at the left picture, that hook on the right edge of the mainplate is for locking the dial feet. Please share your results when you finish your project or as a work on progress Good luck!

Just having the same thoughts as you, right now "cornerstone". But with the difference that I would like to build a Franken using only a rep case set as basis. Is a Liquid PO rep from the latest best version a good basis for such a build? How about case thickness? That GMT complication would require some more rehaut height to accommodate the GMT hand ... Wondering if genuine GMT parts like the hands, dial, bezel set are available from somewhere? Would prefer to use a solid case back from other case/model versions as the transparent case back is quite a tell. Which solid case backs would fit on a Liquid PO rep case? Has anyone tried?

Curious what budget level a gen case set, dial and hands may require? Can anyone help with information? Thank you in advance.

That is a great build! Wear it often and in good health

Great Franken! Good luck on the remaining part of the build.

Is there any new development around this great initiative? Can we already see any white vintage DWO?

Thank is a great 5506, monkeypunch! Congratulations

Thank you! Actually, I am playing with the idea to drill the lugs for gen spec springbars, but am not quite sure yet.

Happy New Year fellow members! I wanted to share some recent update I made to the Explorer 1016 (mbw version). Managed successfully place a genuine specification crystal, Clark´s Tropic 25-22 in combination with JMB´s special bezel (Thank you J!). Well, the stock crystal (similar to Tropic 21) and bezel combo wasn´t my taste, it also made the case and dial look smaller than they really are. Now I have a spare MBW Tropic 21 with bezel laying around, scratch free. It has genuine specification inner diameter, means it will fit on genuine cases. And the results: Masked up case with the Tropic 25-22 (rebrushed lugs, removed all engravings). Bezel Side profile Final result

Very nice work, Akira!

Welcome Kate. What a pleasure having you around! Cheers

First of all, Merry Christmas to all the members, their families and beloved ones! This year Santa brought some special surprises under the tree, one of them being from Japan! That special present contains some historic information about one of my favourite Rolex models, the Explorer 1016! Long story short, what I was able to find inside that "present" was an all so important information about the Explorer dials that isn´t available anywhere else on the web. As an owner of two Explorer 1016 reps (the first being a MBW version and the second a Franken) I had a hard time understanding the dial of the MBW 1016 Explorer, as has been discussed a number of times. The main topic being, that the MBW Explorer dial is marked "Swiss Made" instead "Swiss - T<25" (Tritium radiation less than 25 mCi). Every time someone (me inclusive) has asked here on the forums, if an Explorer 1016 marked "Swiss Made" ever existed, the answer was: "No, never existed one ...". I managed to find that special dial that existed in the 1960´s ( Officially Certified Chronometer not SCOC): This "new" discovery would make some Explorer 1016 owners, having dials marked Swiss Made a bit more happy

What a "hard life" that Space Dweller had

I am almost sure this model is a 1603 with some possibilities for a 16013 (13 being two tone code) You can research pretty easy for example here "chrono24-dot-com" I had seen these roman dials before somewhere. Personally roman indices are not my taste, but agree they look very stylish. Some months ago I got offered this gen, that is (if I remember right) 1603: Best of luck, I know how hard it can be to find the right model!

Really great Explorer´s Ihooq! Have a nice Christmas Holiday and don´t forget to post a theme picture of the 1016 in Christmas "action"!

What a beauty! Congratulations for this great Explorer II. Wear it often and in good health.

Love those open 6-9 Date fonts and the side profile of the Sub!

That is a special comparison LHOOQ and great 1016´s!!! Thank you for the images! I see the left bezel on the gen does not have a mini flat top section, where the right bezel has a smaller flat section. Conclusion, the left bezel has a bigger inner diameter. @StormTooper4 Many thanks!

Wow, that super special glue from back 15 years would be great, Automatico! In one of my Franken projects I have used a pretty cheap Epoxy glue (from a cheap goods store), two component (resin+hardener), mixed 1:1 and stirred for a couple of minutes. It contains the same chemical components as higher value Epoxy glues. I had tested it on other occasions and it has proven to be equally good as other pricey glues. Same with Super Glue! I am not blaming anyone for anything, but what I had learned over the years glueing metal parts, is that they need to be roughened on the areas of glueing. Means no glossy surfaces, clean of oils and dirt. I roughen the areas with a bigger grain sand paper and clean the surface of any dust, then glue the parts. Those micro rough areas will catch the glue even stronger!

Great NATO´s! @explorer69: like your version (can you please PM me the source where you got it?) I wear the following NATO´s The Explorer 1016 will need a new NATO for next summer. 20mm is a must. But to be honest with the 18mm it was OK, allowing the Watch to feel a lot bigger than it is.

Bonessey, you can read thoughts! Yesterday, I bumped over some similar platforms and immediately thought of your positioning tools. I thought, it would be great if your alignment tools can be ordered over such Rapid Prototyping platforms ... and today ... you have made them available! Great job!