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I use 2834-2 discs to solve the clearance problem. The 2834-2 disc is slightly stepped and measures 0.4mm in thickness including the stepped teeth. This gives just enough clearance above the mainplate and the back or the overlay does not touch. Also, gives you a nice flat surface to glue down the overlay. they are available from your watch supply house. Usually sold in a two pack. date discs + day disc. You could also use a 2836-2 date disc, but it might be too tall and then you run the risk of having the overlay rub against the back of the dial.

nice find! thanks

right! the 5.3mm crown... silly me! and just two days ago my buddy stopped by to show me his '64 gmt.... with the 5.3mm crown. I was just curious... and too lazy to dig up some pics for comparison. I haven't really studied the 1675 too closely, but I may have a spare 1655 case.

oh yes, one other thing... you can fit a 1570/non date movement in a 162XX case. The 160XX or 160X case is made for a date model 1570 or 3035. I haven't done it personally, but I know someone that has. One thing you have to consider with the 1601. the case is made for a pie pan dial. Shouldn't be a problem if you use a 2824-2. but if you use a 2846, you could run into problems. Also, the rehaut will be different.

Anyone know if the 1655 EXII case is the same as the 1675 GMT case? I know they use the same crystal, crown, gaskets, as well as the same 1575GMT movement. Is the only difference the engravings? The the dial diameters the same? Thanks!

sorry about pm being full... now resolved. there are a couple of reasons I feel the 162XX DJ case is a good base for a 1016. 1.) you can fit a genuine tropic 22 to the case. it snaps on no problem. Only thing, is you will need to mod the smooth bezel to fit the crystal. the OD on the 22 is bigger then the OD on the 295C. 2.) the caseback gasket setup is the same on the 162XX and 1016. If you go with a 160XX it is totally different. You just need to drill the lug holes to accept the thicker sport springbars. Also, if you really want to, you can drill and tap the tube hole to fit the older style tube and crown. I didn't bother as you can't tell unless you unscrew the crown. Looks the same with the crown screwed down. also, the 580's fit the case nicely. I don't think they will fit the 160XX case very well. the lugs seem too thin. The 162XX lugs are thicker and look more like a 1016. hope this helps.

Have you tried to email them or call directly? Could be a problem with their site. JB is pretty quick at getting back. I'm sure Cousins will have it, or at least be able to order it from ETA. Probably just have to email them a specific request. Hope this helps.

You'll need a set of H.4. HW 1.76 CP 2.70 4w 5.57 I'm assuming the 2824-2 is going into a 1680 case?

The crown position on the genuine article is quite different then on the WM9 case. In this pic, you can see how the case tube is just sitting proud on the top edge of the case. See how the top edge of the mid case is just below the case tube. Anyone have a pic of the V2 or V3 in similar position to make a comparison?

Not to throw the topic too far off, the lume looks to be applied by screen or pad printing. The initial printing is done by a pad printer, and it looks as if luminous paint was applied by pad printing as well. The dial vs pad are off just slightly so the imprint of luminous ink is just off slightly. Very hard to align the dial print with the pad, especially with that tight of tolerance. With modern computerized equipment, the result would be better. My theory is, Rolex just let these go and accepted as is. We have to keep in mind that back around the time these were made, the quartz movement was kicking the [censored] out of mechanical watch companies, Rolex included, and they were losing money and needed to keep all costs down. Which would include not scraping dials with slight flaws. And in reality, that slight imperfection is not noticed from the wrist and only by loupe, or by Ubi's photo skills! Anyway, that is a beauty you have put together! Glad to see it all work out.

Yes, very nice touch! And as per your inspiration, I did the same thing. My custom serial is of my children's birthdays. Might as well make it personal. No point in stealing serials off the web. but your engravings look much nicer then mine!

Best analogy I've read in a long time! I think you nailed it! I feel the same way about my 1016. I wish I never had the markers relumed... although zig did an amazing job!

Click Here If I didn't already have one, I'd snap this up. Build yourself a nice "vintage" tritium 14270. All you need is a 16200 smooth bezel DJ case with lug holes, an ETA 2824-2, my movement holder, age a set of clark hands, and you could have yourself a very nice EX-I.

Yes, that is correct. GMT had 3 rubies on top, and the standard only as 1 ruby. That is the easiest way to spot the difference. Anyone have a 27.2mm, 3 ruby part, let me know!

You'll need one that is 26.6mm in diameter. in Ronin's pics is of the GMT and is 27.20mm. That one won't fit as it will be too tall and the stem will not align. It always cracks me up (not really) seeing sellers on eBay offering 1570's saying they are for 1680, 1665, etc when they are just pulls from 160X datejusts. They do not fit and they are just taking advantage of unsuspecting buyers.

I thought you would never buy another rep again? Just kidding buddy, but you did set yourself up for that one and I couldn't resist! Hey B, did you get my email in regards to a recent aquisition? Would like to know your thoughts. @ Ronin. Must be watch time as I didn't see it in IW, unless I missed an issue.

what a beauty. nice pics. I've got the same wear on my automatic winding bridge. I've got a NOS bridge that I hope to swap in one day.

Like two oranges in a pair of stockings! LOL

Very true freddy. But from what I was told, the genuine article is around $600! Ideally it would be great to get these sheets as well. Interesting, I've never thought to use grease on the caseback threads or back of caseback, i've only greased the gasket, but I don't see instruction to grease the caseback gasket, or the outer tube gaseket. Anyone know if this is just standard silicone grease that Rolex is using?

There are "copies" on the bay. 350243292114 A bit pricey for a "copy". But it is 300+ pages. I asked him about them a while ago. Never bought a set. I wanted them in PDF, but he only has paper copies. Why PDF? That way it would be easier to share with friends and split the cost! Kinda like rippin' a CD to MP3 and sharing! I wonder how much work it would be to create a PDF booklet of all 300+ pages? Say, get 10 friends to commit to $25-$30 each? Cost for the paper version is $180+ shipping. One could make a few bucks for their time creating the PDF. Say charge $30 each, make $100 for their time after paying for the paper version. This way, we could all save some money, and save a few trees by only printing out what we need. I know I don't need all 300 pages, but it would be nice to have them all for reference. Anyone want to take on the task? I'd do it, but I have zero free time! But I'd be willing to throw down a deposit if one wants to make a nice digital pdf booklet.... it would need chapters and everything.

You can find some of the part numbers on the jules borel site, not all, but it may help.

Brilliant! Absolutely Brilliant! BTW, your bezel die got some use today. Works perfect!

If anyone is interested, I have found a very rare batch of genuine 3135 Rolex Date Discs. These have very rare large and open 6 & 9 font. Similar to the 3035 font. These would be ideal for 16014 and 16013 franken projects! For Sale HERE.

They would work in a PAM 029 that came with the 2836-2... Or use it in an Omega Seamaster GMT. or, if you have the standard 2893-2, then order the taller HW, 24H wheel, and CP. Swap them out and use it in a Rollie vintage GMT that has no dial markers. Beat rate will be off, but it will be a nice reliable GMT.

looks good! Nothing beats a happy recipient!