stilty

no kidding! If I recall, they run around between $30-$40 a set from RSC.

here was the "deal of the week", or year for that matter! 6 sets of hands for $500. 1680/1665 hand sets

yes they can be used. I'm having some holders made for 1680 projects, and they can be used in 1500 as well.

$1000 will easily get you a dial and hand set. A set sold on the bay a few weeks ago for around $550 or so. That was a pretty good deal. Hand set will sell for at least $150USD, but I frequently see then sell for 150euro. Dials normally sell for $500+

here is completed sale on ebay for a gen 7750 320504934467 check with seller to see if he has another one. I've noticed he has relisted movements a few times.

I was thinking the same thing about Iceland. 24hrs of daylight during the summer. At least you wouldn't have to worry about your lume.

she looks good, the date overlay does not look bad either. If you do go with a gen date disc, the only one you will be able to use is either a 3135 (wrong font), or 3055 with open 6 & 9. (wrong font, but closer) The flat top 3 disc from the 1570 date progression is opposite of eta so will not work.

springbars are from a DJ, as are the endlinks. They should be 280, not 558b. and if you read the fine print, bracelet is not included. The dial is probably fine. If I'm not mistaken, that is a "frog" coronet.

Well, it was something that I would never have picked up on, until I began researching the movement. The 1575 GMT movement is a non adjustable movement. The 24h hand follows the hour hand. Note that the watch is set at 2:38. The orange hand should either be just past 2 or 14 on the bezel. This one, the orange hand, is just past 16 which would mean 4pm. The hand is off by 2 hours. And yes chief, the date mag is way off, not to mention the bracelet endlinks.

Nice Huskie!

anyone spot the major problem with this? http://tinyurl.com/yd6zpz6

You will need a spacer between dial and movement in order to align the stem. The difference is 0.30mm. Also, you will probably need to change the CP and HW. You will need to go up 1 height. 0.25mm. This is because of the spacer between the dial and movement. Also, your date disc will be sitting recessed from the dial. You could always try and find a 2834.2 date disc that is black with white printing. or... to avoid all of this, find someone to make you a spacer to go between the dial and rehaut. Machine the ID of the spacer in Stainless to match the ID of the rehaut. Probably not very noticable and will solve all your other problems.

A couple of options: minimize the space between dial and movement. this would throw stem alignment off a bit, but you could save 0.10mm find a set of hands with tall tubes to attach to the pinions... this would be the best option bend the hands so they clear the markers.

They are listed above in my post. If you go with H4, subtract another 0.25mm from the lengths posted above.

Guys, before you jump in too deep, please consider that the 2893-2 will not work for a modern Rollie project with raised dial markers, especially if you are using a case made for 2836-2. stem position for the 2893-2 is 2.00mm stem position for the 2836-2 is 2.25mm Right there you loose 0.25mm in height if you want your stem centered in the tube. Next, let's look at the hand fitting height: H5 is the tallest height available for the 2893-2. I'm sure that all the stock movements are fitted with H4, so you will need to order replacement parts if you want to use this movement for any Rollie project. The following lengths are from dial seat (back of dial) Cannon Pinion: 1.70mm Hour Wheel: 1.30mm 24H Wheel: 0.90mm You now need to subtract 0.40mm from these lengths to account for dial thickness. CP: 1.3mm HW: 0.90mm 24H: 0.50mm They seem tall enough right? But remember, your movement is going to be sitting 0.25mm further away from the dial in order to center the stem with the tube. Now you are looking at the following heights: CP: 1.05mm HW: 0.65mm 24H: 0.25mm Now factor in the height of the dial markers, say 0.40mm? Now the tolerances are too tight for hand fitting. Especially the 24H hand which will not clear the markers at all, and will only be sitting 0.25mm above the dial. Best bet would be to stick to vintage models with no dial markers, and even then, the 24h hand is sitting quite close to the dial. I guess the other option is to not fully seat the hands on the CP, HW, and 24HW, but then you risk the chance of the hands coming loose. But the good news is, you will have plenty of room to fit an overlay between the dial and movement! I considered this movement a few years ago for a Rollie project, but came to the conclusion that the tolerances are too tight to be successful. Best bet would be to use them for Omegas or even Pams.

you need a pin vise to hold the stem. And you may want to heat the stem in case the previous installed used some thread lock.

2651 - 70/120/20 2671 - 70/120/20 They are the same.

***UPDATE*** TEST FITTINGS ARE IN FOR NON DATE PROJECTS Thanks to another member for the loan of a genuine 1002 case, I was able to have a prototype movement holder made for the non date models. These holders will be for non date models. 5500, 1002, 5513, 1016, 5517, etc. Either genuine or 1:1 aftermarket cases that accept 1530, 1570 non date movements. The holders are made for ETA 2824-2 only. You will not be able to fit a 2836-2 or 2846 in the gen spec non date case! The stem will not align with the tube. And speaking of stem alignment. Even the ETA 2824-2 is not perfectly aligned. The 2824-2 is slightly thicker then the Rolex 1570 movement and the stem sits slightly away from the dial. Please see pictures. This is a genuine Rolex 1002 case with an ETA 2824-2 mainplate fitted with the adapter. As you can see, the stem is slightly out off center in the tube. It is not bad and I don't really seeing it causing any problems as there is a tiny bit of play with the stem when installed in the movement anyway. I was able to screw in a crown with no problem. The good news is there are no date overlays to worry about pinching down when you install the case clamps. This is a pretty easy and straightforward build. And if you really wanted a perfectly centered stem, all you need to do is sand between 0.05mm and 0.10mm off the back of the dial for the movement to sit deeper in the case. Also, if you really want a slow beat movement, you just need to order a 2801 mainplate and install the 2846 workings (minus date device) and you will have a slow beat movement. I know I have a fair amount of interest in holders for 1680 and 1665, but I would like to get a general idea of the interest in this particular holder. Again, these will be for 1:1 spec 5513, 5512, 5517 and 1016 cases. Or you could use them in genuine 1002, 5500, etc.

Great post! I have a feeling you may be getting a lot of requests for lug drilling.

Wow! what an awesome addition to the fold! That case looks awesome. I love the CG's. she's a beauty.

If Yuki's 1655 case is made to gen spec, then it will fit. But the genuine 1575GMT movement is 0.17mm taller then the regular 1570 w/date, so in order for stem alignment, you will need to have a thin spacer between movement holder and dial, or just use a thicker layer of glue.

Nice goldie! great pics too. what lens do you use for that great DOF?

It is possible! I have some being printed to 1570 spec, so as long as the date windows are in the same position, it will work.

She's a beauty! Your wife will love it!

I have a TT band if you are interested. Solid 18K midlinks. No flip lock buckle though, but you could use your rep buckle. Also included is the endlinks, but no guarantee they will fit the rep case, but you could use your rep endlinks. It is non SEL, has some scratches from normal wear, and very light stretch. Please see here: LINK