fraggle42

Well done! I thought of Seikos but thought you'd never think of one of those, they're that cheap they're not worth repping! Bad man!

<random guesses> Any Pam with el Primo movement? Anything with a perpetual calendar complication? Breitling AeroSpace (ok, that one's my ideal gen ) Sorry, brain won't work - I've been breathing solvent fumes all weekend whilst painting the garage / workshop floor - weeeee! And it's time to put another coat on...

Argh! I know it, but the answers doing that thing where it sits *just out of reach* and I can't quite remember it!

I'm guessing there's supposed to be a pic of a bunch of watches attached to this post? There isn't?

Wearing my new Ebel today:- Richard

Finished building the workbench and shelves now. Now waiting on various EBay sellers to send me the trunking and other bits and bobs I need to install power and lights. Richard

I picked up one of these on this forum http://www.heinnie.com/product.asp?P_ID=3621 Cost the same as a good rep, quartz, chrono, countdown timer, lap times, etc, etc, all the usual quartz stuff and I love it. I've not really looked at quartz reps of mechanical originals so can't really help you if that's really what you are after. If I'm not sure if I'll like a watch I'll buy a cheap mechanical rep (same price as the quartz rep anyway) and if I do like it I'll buy a decent rep and sell the cheap one to someone else to try. Richard

Only the womans one has the diamond:- http://www.omegawatches.com/gents/product-presentations/seamaster-50years-james-bond

Quartzz movements always have the 3, 6, 9, 12 sub hands further towards the centre than mechanical movements, so the sub dials are more crowded together. (on all the quartz watches I've seen pictures of) So I would definitely pick either a nice gen quartz, or a rep that has subtle sub dials that don't stand out. Or a quartz that doesn't have chrono - no sub dials to worry about

Lots of the TDs here also sell rep boxes. Have a look through their websites (look in the TD forum area and then dig through the posts by the TDs to find their websites, some can be a little hard to find the website URL, some don't have a website) I must say that I've never thought about boxes, even the gens I buy I put the watch in the 20 watch box with all the others and the gen box and manual goes in the loft for if & when I sell it. It'd be a really nice touch if giving it as a present to the SO / a relative. Maybe an instruction manual too, but I certainly wouldn't bother with a rep "receipt" and "certificate"s, etc, too much temptation for whoever you sell it to to try and sell it as a gen.

Is this from Sead? Lovely looking Omega, I'm very tempted to get one

Hehehe, I like it. I've heard from quite a few people that whatever type of shave you use, your skin gets used to it and switching to a different method (wet to dry or dry to wet) is like sanding your skin for a couple of weeks. I can definitely vouch for this as when I use my Mach 3 (in the shower) for a few days on the run my skin gets sensitive. Going the other way is the same and why a lot of people stick with what they are used to, as their skin is used to it too.

Electric razor. I just cannot be bothered with all the faffing about wet shaving, takes too long, and its hard to do when you're standing there taking a wizz at the same time Richard

It is a bank holiday in the UK today, and as is tradition for UK males, DIY was the order of the day:- The upper and front lower worktops haven't been screwed down yet which is why there's small gaps under them. I've got a Makita cordless drill and impact driver that take the same battery, and I've got one battery to share between them. I thought my work would be limited by how long the battery lasts and I'd have a few 30 minute breaks whilst it charged up. It outlasted me. All day using the drill & driver a lot and the battery was still 2/3rds full, and I'm knackered! The last few bits shouldn't take long to do, and then I've got to invite a few mates round to lift the thing into position. There's a gas pipe coming out of the floor (almost) right in the corner - there's just enough room to get this in, but the whole thing will need lifting over the pipe to get it into it's final position. And then paint the wood white, install lights, install dado trunking and the mains sockets and light switches, wire everything up, paint the floor of both halves of the garage.

The walls that use those aircrete blocks are the house walls, the garage is attached to the house. It'd cost many thousands to replace them and then rebuild the kitchen and hallway Richard

Well spotted Yes, there is radio gear there. I passed my advanced radio amateur license a few years ago. I actually started learning it because I was bored and had a head start on the other students as I used to be an electronics engineer. Now that I've got the license I don't actually use it that much - big aerials at home would cause too much friction between neighbours so it's 2M and 70cm bands at home, and I've got a multi band HF aerial that I got with the intention of using static mobile but haven't used it yet. I've also got a Kenwood TS-450S and a TS-2000 in the living room. This new space is going to be for electronic repair/alignment/calibration, learning to work on watches & clocks and I'll put the TS-2000 in there too, together with a spare laptop I've got for digital modes. One big problem I've got is that those grey blocks that the wall is made out of are "aircrete" http://www.aircrete.co.uk/ which must be the stupidest thing invented yet. You can poke a hole in them using your finger! They have absolutely NO strength, the only benefit is light weight, thermal insulation and fire proof. All the things a normal breeze block is more or less, apart from the weight thing. Which means that anything I build has to have it's own full supporting frame, or be suspended from the ceiling joists.

Yes I realise that Ken and I feel for you, as I said in my post the "review" was full of poor choices of words and hurtful when it should have just been a simple comparison. I think anyone here who is used to the rep game will know to ask around and study the pictures to find out the flaws (that all reps have), and then decide if it's what they want or not. We all know they're not perfect. As far as your reputation goes, you're not the factory, you don't produce them yourself, you offered a free hole punch and money off the next order, both of which you were under no obligation to do, so excellent customer service as usual. As far as the buyer goes, they've now got a bag they're happy with and now know more about the rep market. They can't change the past, so learn from it and move on.

On a siller note Lord of the Rings The Silence of the Lambs Rear Window Sunset Boulevard Apocalypse Now Saving Private Ryan Alien Toy Story Untouchable Or for those times you can't get the male chastity belt off:- Full Metal Jacket

I hate you! I'd love to have the space to build a workshop like that!

A little bit of progress. Contents removed to the other half of the garage and the wall unit removed:- And £300 worth of various bits of tree:- And now I have to start assembling the jigsaw

Use the full list of gens. Then a dealer can stop / start doing a particular rep and you'll always have it in the database. Things like fantasy reps will need to be handled differently and might be a bit of a pain to maintain but not impossible.

Ken and Arkon, I don't know either of you and have no beef with either of you, I'm just pointing out what has been said and where I see misunderstandings, so please don't think I'm taking sides! Arkon has repeatedly said he received the bag, wore it *then* 4 or 5 times, noticed the wear, did the investigation in the product (that he really should have done beforehand), noticed the flaws, wrote the review. Then "other life stuff" got in the way for 3 months. Then, when he had time, he posted the original post. So he was not "happy for 3 months". Arkon, posting a review is perfectly fine, but in your review you did the following which I would never do in a review:- * The Subject had "Fake" & "Complaint" * The word review is in quotes, as if you are trying to mask a complaint as a fake "review" * "I'm not so angry anymore" - this is a review, you should only post facts and pictures - no personal feelings, and certainly no emotions like this. * "Bad fake for high price" and lots of similar stuff - just post the facts and pics, readers have different expectations and can clearly see the differences and make their own minds up. Maybe a short summary of what you think of the rep, but not loads and loads of it! Personally if it were me, as soon as I saw I had received the wrong bag I would have been in touch with Ken and had it swapped for the right one. All these reps come from different factories, and if you ordered on the strength of another review that had pictures of a good bag, I wouldn't then compare a different product with the one that the other poster reviewed. There is no guarantee that one size of bag is made by the same place as a different size of bag. Take this as an opportunity to learn how to write reviews; take pics, tell us *just the facts*, e.g. "notice the wear on the strap where the dye / paint has worn away", "Notice the difference in the logo on the leather, the missing text and difference in size of the leather part". I think it's fine to summarise your views on an item you're reviewing, but I'd put that after everything else, and write it without emotion, just say what you thing; e.g. "I feel the bag is a poor rep for the cost", "after minimal use, noticable signs of wear were apparent on the straps where the buckle passes through them". Also always remember to check out the pictures on the TDs website and any QC pics. If the QC pics show you everything you can see when you get the bag, well, you only have yourself to blame as you had pictures showing the faults before you ordered / accepted it and still ordered / accepted it. And lastly, it's not "fake", it's "rep"

Nice and quiet. Richard

Cape Cod should clean it up. As to fixing it, you can probably find a piece of steel rod the right diameter and length and mushroom the ends over yourself and then polish them with a Dremel. Or rather mushroom one end, polish that end, assemble and mushroom the other end. I wouldn't try to polish the other end with the bracelet assembled as you'll polish the gold off the other parts. That's how I'd do it with my non watch DIY experience, I'll let others tell you how to do it properly Richard

Sounds dodgy? "Yes sir, it has your correct address on it, but we couldn't deliver it. And we don't know where it came from, but we're sending it back there anyway." Sounds like someone is blatantly telling you "thanks for the watch, you'll never see it again" Hope that's not the case.