importr

ummmm I doubt that the bezel is even ceramic. This looks like a cheap, rushed out test-piece. If it is, the bezel will almost certainly be PVD treated polished steel, engraved with the markers prior to coating. I had a GMT Master II with this faux-ceramic bezel insert. I thought it was ceramic until it got scratched and turned out to be steel.....

Sublime review Chrgod, thanks. I'm not a fan of this watch, but can appreciate that it's very nicely made. Well done to all involved

Brilliant! I really enjoyed that!

Hope they weren't related to anyone we do business with? http://uk.news.yahoo...e-27431293.html

Although I'm pleased that they made an attempt with the Montbrillant, a new rep there are a few things that bother me: 1) the rotor. The Calibre 01 is nothing like this 2) the cheap stick on "Breitling ChronographeCertifieChronometre " decals on the rotor. The previous were engraved. Why go down this cheap route, when there's an open caseback, making this even more significant? 4) the wrong engraving "Edition Limited" surely this should be "Edition Limitee"? Duuuuhhhhh 5) the edition number "0/2000" on the side. I sincerely hope that this would be a one off, not applying to all reps? 6) wrong date font. They did it for the B01, why not for this?? The mind boggles....

Mate, I've lost count of the number of times I've stuffed things up when it comes to modding. It is part & parcel of this game and should you wish to continue, your modding skills will improve. Don't lose the faith! When the PO is finally finished, it'll be worth it

It most probably is winding. That clicking sound you hear may be the clutch engaging to prevent over winding. I can't remember exactly, but this could be a normal occurence with your movt. Your stem may be a gnats whisker too long. Which is why it is still winding....

Prolly not news to most , but just for clarifcation: http://www.cousinsuk.../page/News.aspx

Sorry to hear of your problems, but it sounds like you have a serious issue with your keyless works? Did the stem/crown work ok when the movt wasn't in the case? If you're screwing the crown on and it pulls out the tube, then either its not bonded well, the stem was the wrong length, or even the yoke was not engaging/disengaging properly. You may have to bite the bullet and get someone to fix it now! I never had any of those problems though, and the all of the pendant tubes are still in situ, watches working fine... What can F-up the keyless works is when the stem release is pressed too hard. The stem release should only be lightly pressed when the crown is in the neutral postion (ie. for manual winding) NOT when the crown is in date setting or time change position. Pull crown & press stem release simultaneously.

Welcome to the forum....! Let me start by saying that the watch you've got is arguably the best version of 42mm PO there ever has been. If you were around a few years ago, you'd be praying for a watch lke this. Colour variations with the 'pumpkin' do happen (which is why the all black is the better bet), the pearl - well, it's an improvement, and the clasp - nope, my genuine PO 42mm has Professional engraved on the clasp too. I very much doubt that you'd be called out as such - unless the 'caller' has experience of the gen.....and unless there is a quality flaw, then most people don't question it. So, relax, and enjoy the watch! Oh and don't screw & unscrew the crown too much....they have a habit of stripping threads!

I would use loctite, as it is runnier than most glues and will get into the threads. Just be sure that you set the stem at the correct length or you'll have problems later on.

yes, thats what i meant. Apply the loctite from inside the case, to the back of the tube. I find that there is always a tiny gap between the tube and case in this area. The loctite seems to bond very well with the other epoxy.

Mask off the surrounding case and crystal with thick electrical tape in case you slip: There may be better ways to do this, but I've done it to 4 Omega rep watches now and i know it works To remove the useless rep tube, all i did was grip it with fine needle nose pliers, squashing it into a flattish shape. Then just twist carefully and it will come out. Its just bonded in. Pack a bunch of rodico or blu-tac into the hole to remove any specs of dust etc. To bond the new tube - i use a 2 part epoxy resin. Not stringy Araldite (although that may work), i choose to use Chemical Metal or JB Weld. These 2 products are the mutts nuts! And you can remove excess with a fine screwdriver after setting. After 24hrs setting, i then shave down a toothpick to a very fine 'blade', apply cryanoacrylate (Loctite) and carefully apply it to the reverse side of the tube so it bonds to the case and the epoxy. Make sure to have the glass face down during this bit, or it Will fog up with glue fumes! When you refit the crown (and glued in stem) be sure to apply silicon grease to crown o-ring. The lube will help the crown screw on easier thus reducing the torque on your freshly bonded tube ps. you'd have to be quite ham fisted to strip a gen crown & tube assembly. But if you did, I'm sure it can be removed again.

The normal a7750 is also secs @9. All they did was put gears in to transfer the 30 min counter from 12 to 3 o'clock position. Same deal as the Chronomat B01 rep. Andreww is right. All they would do is fit a different dial and chrono hand. Although they will have to make the slide rule narrower if they are to use the same 41mm case and make the dial slightly bigger, so it gives the illusion of being 43mm. The other hurdle is the caseback. I've not seen any solid casebacks for the Navi 01. Apart from a sunken date, the movt will be the biggest tell.....

lol - looks like that Navi 01 above has loose hands!

This is quite a cool project, the strap looks perfect for the watch: congrats!

So despite being able to get rid of the sunken date on a Navi rep, we still have the problem of the crown at a different height. Either that or a sunken dial. Come to think of it, if a gen dial isn't shaved, it can fit under the slide rule - thus possibly getting the crown & stem nearer to the tube?!

Don't forget that on the gen, the chrono pushers are slightly closer to the crown. On the rep, the pushers line up with 2 and 4 o'clock. Also, the thickness of the gen POC is just that. Thick! I was surprised at how high the gen sits on the wrist.

Great work, Ryan. Well done What tool are you using to set the hands? I use blu-tac/rodico to 'hold' each hand, and then a watchmakers' hand setting tool to press it onto the post. It's really easy this way.

Thanks z3ko, although the DateWheels are interchangeable, am I right in thinking that the A7753 DateWheel is wider on the outside than the A7750 tricompax? Can you confirm that the date window on A7753 rep is in a different location than the window on A7750 @4.5 rep? I remember seeing a comparison of the dials....

....just to flog the horse a little bit more..... You say that it's not worth the reppers making a good Navi rep...but they still went and made a PAM 250 after the previous versions were still selling. I imagine the new 250 is one of the most popular PAM chrono reps to date. The trouble is, they still can't get the little details right, due to corner cutting. We saw that in the latest Navi Fighter, what an abortion that was. Why did that watch have to have the stupid 7750, when the Carreras, Aquaracers, SMP Chronos etc have the sensible 7750? A number of little flaws make up one big-fat-obviously-fake-rep.

I have a gen Skyland bezel. also have a v2 & v3 skyland. the gen bezel will not attached to either watch without serious mods

It doesn't matter what version you got, it's the person who assembled the watch which may not have lined up the hand 100% correctly. I've had gens which were worse than you mention. The solution is to live with it until service time, OR get someone competent to refit the hand. If, you had a 7750 which originally did line up 100%, and then didnt reset correctly....only then do you have a problem....

A bit more detail on the gen silver/cream dial