ceejay

First up the Blue screws... The top grade COSC ETA movements have the blue screws, that's why the Chinese copy the blue screws to mimic the top grade movements. Next have a look at this http://people.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631674031715938957 Hope this helps?

I think the first think you need to do is get the balance wheel with attached hairspring out of the way. You don't want to damage that any further Put a piece of rodico under that fine regulator arm to hold it in place while you remove and turn over the balance c ock. Then you need to unscrew the stud retaining screw that holds the hairspring stud in the balance c ock. That's the screw at the 7 o'clock position in your photo. only turn that screw half a turn at a time, until the stud is released. You do not want that falling out! Where the terminal coil of the hairspring passes through the regulating pins, the 2 brass pins at the 8 o'clock position there is usually what's called a 'boot' that sits across the 2 pin to prevent the hairspring from jumping out of the pins. This 'boot' will rotate. They sometimes have a tiny slot in the top to get a screwdriver in, they sometimes have a hole in the side to insert a tiny needle etc. or grip it with a pair of tweezers and turn it a quarter turn and lift out the hairspring. Remember to do the stud retaining screw up as soon as you have the stud out. I can't help you with the refitting the regulator arm as I haven't done one yet. But get the balance and hairspring clear first Good luck.

The thinner one is the one I have. That movement has just the rotor removed, so I wander how much thinner it is with the full manual wind conversion, if at all? I dug something up about the back on the 'mystery movement' Daytona being even thinner.

Welcome Alex. GenTle is a very good student, me too. We like Horology Tell him how to do it and I think he will have a damn fine go at it!

I have one of the DW daytonas and this got me thinking today. I remembered reading about a proper manual wind conversion for the 775- movement. I will be doing a service on mine soon, so while I am at it why not do the conversion. After a bit of searching I found out the bits that get binned and the replacement bridge I need to buy, Cousins UK part number 8501 for the Valjoux 7760 That leads to...There has been a thinner case back sold/supplied in the past. Where did that come from and how much thinner is it than the DW back that is designed with just the rotor removed?

If I may...

Sorry DTM, I was being sarcastic, apologies. I was referring to you stating a 7750 when it's a 7753 configuration 3-6-9, 7750 is 6-9-12 I woke up with a hangover

Call me pedantic, but those subdials look in the wrong position for a 7750?

Lets not forget this bulls!t he never had to answer for http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/164763-torobravo-free-raffles-because-loyalty-is-greater-than-success/

I train here http://www.efhc.org.uk/ very relaxed, sociable training atmosphere. The only thing that concerns me about the ST19 is going from Swiss quality to Chinese, albeit the slightly better quality end of the market (?)

Thanks guys, I have a Sea-gull St19-- column wheel chronograph movement on the way. That's the next project. After that I am right back to the beginning to repair a Fusee pocket watch movement I broke when I first started training Good luck with your training GenTle!

I'm a very young 46 I do a evening class once a week. 3hrs per week. Yes I work full time. I am very lucky there is a unique training centre around 45 minute drive from where I live. My tutor is a excellent watchmaker who teaches all the old watchmaking skills and encourages us to practice the technician skills (modern movement servicing) in out own time. There is a formal qualification available to us but I am in no rush to follow that path yet, I'm having far too much fun

When I started training in Horology 18 months ago this was the movement I aspired to conquer. The chronograph movement is considered a year 3 topic at my training centre and I am half way through year 2, so I am a bit ahead I have battled through the manual wind movements from pocket watch size down to ladies size, day/date complications including instant change movements. Then it was on to the automatics, Seiko's 7--- series, ETA's 28-- series and some other more obscure manufacturers. Quartz servicing was blown away rather quickly Along the way I have also learn't theory & history of the various developments (amazing how old some features are!) Correct cleaning and lubrication and more recently regulation. How to diagnose problems and how to go about rectifying them. We are just starting lathe work, screw making and polishing. This is real good work. Anyway, I thought I was ready for the 7750 and using the excellent Swisslab ETA flash animation I got to work. I bought a ETA 7750 of a member here some time ago that was described as "serviced within the last year" but it had a very low amplitude on arrival ~190-200 and wouldn't run for more than a minute or two. Time to go to work, I won't bore you with what has been written about and photographed many times before, but it all when absolutely great This was after it had been cleaned and the gear train was installed and put on the timer. I nice amplitude of 300+ was recorded. Installation and lubrication of the chronograph cam. Chronograph module almost complete, very precise lubrication is required on these parts, I think I done well for my first effort. The crooked reversing wheel stays like that until you put the bridge on as there is a click spring that rests against it. Once you locate the chrono bridge there is a viewing hole where you release pressure from the spring as the wheel pinion is located in its hole That's the hard bit done! Fast forward and the dial side with additional chrono functions, keyless, motion works and date is complete. Before regulation it had a 0.9 beat error and was running ~45 seconds slow with a 300+ amplitude. This was after regulation, a success I believe

Here you go. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolex-Crystal-Reference-25-116-116-NEW-CLARK-/251481499503

OK, the 2 engraved bridges are a different colour to the originals. Although it is spinning there appears to be no screws in the balance wheel? Movement look very dirty also.

OK, I have picked up on the gaping hole in the coronet, the chrono seconds hand pointer is too short, the grooves in the pushers are too shallow, the font looks fat, lugs too thin? What else is there? On a learning curve here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271737923570 Seller stinks IMO but the watch looks good. What do you think guys? And final price...

It amazes me how many people rate One Million? Cat p!ss is being complementary to it. Guerlain - Vetiver today. My favourite Vetiver ever.

Bond No9 - Riverside Drive today.

They have the Seiko 7S26 movement in. This dated back to the seventies and is fantastic movement, accurate, robust and easy to service. God for anywhere between 5-10 years. Problem being that it will cost you twice as much for a service than the watch cost. Some will say "that's cool I will just bin it and buy another" but I tend to become attached to my watches Anyway, you can't go wrong with one of these.

That's some real eye shandy there.

Is it a functioning mod or frozen? I guess being the Cartel it's the ST19 movement that's frozen? Regardless, it's a cracking dial and build. I'm well jealous!

Great build! What was involved with the movement sub dial mod? Sent from my iBend 6

The problem there will be keeping up with demand. Unless another partnership forms like the Swatch group then I don't think any of these companies will be able to supply the quantities that will be required.

I think at the moment there are 3 tiers of watches/movements. High end i.e. Rolex etc. Now they are established high end manufacturers from Switzerland. Renowned for producing quality products in (fairly) limited numbers. China has none of that reputation and are not interested in limited numbers. They are not going to break into that market. Mid range manufacturers that use ETA movements. these are in abundance...At the moment. With ETA pulling the plug on their movements this market is where the Chinese will (IMO) eventually move into. At the moment, the ETA based watches still have that Swiss provenance and are quality watches at a elevated but generally affordable price. Once the ETA movements dry up the Chinese will step up to the plate, invest in quality materials and tooling and smash this market. They have the capability, they are just learning their trade at the moment Low end manufacturers. This is where the Chinese are at the moment, churning out millions of 'generally' acceptable watches and movements. Yes they have a much higher failure rate than ETA based movements but then if it breaks, very few will go back for a warranty claim and just buy another cheapy. But the signs are there, they are masters at copying and have came a long way in a short period of time. Look at the complications they now produce, tourbillions, double tourbillions etc. Sea-gull for instance are heading in the right direction, better quality Chinese movements. As to the question "why don't they copy one to one" My guess is economics, if they copy one to one then when a piece of your asian clone breaks, you replace it (fix!) with a Swiss part. At the moment they don't want you fixing their movements, they want you buying them! Again, with the crappy 3135, it's a low demand item to them, so this was probably produced at a small company with crap tooling and not a particular amount of interest. Just a private customer like Yuki paying a company to do a little job for him. Once ETA have pulled the plug in 2019 (?) then either a new Swiss manufacturer will start up (unlikely) or the Chinese will show us what they can really do. Just my theory guys