ceejay

Well the mainspring from Cousins arrived and it had the same problem as the one that I snapped. The centre arbor coil was too big, on the original mainspring this was due to the mainspring winder enlarging the coil when inserted onto the winder. But I was surprised that the mainspring from Cousins that was 'supposed' to be for the 2824 had a enlarged centre arbor hole. Out with the strong tweezers and gradually closed up the last coil until it gripped the hooking. Is this the norm with new hairsprings?

Did I just witness a spinmaster 6263 just go up for sale [emoji6] Sent from my iBend 6

Thanks freddy, it's something more of the 6241 non oyster etc. i'm looking for but I appreciate it...cheers & that is a nice dial

Isn't DW still selling cases on eBay? At least if he doesn't come through you can get your money back through PP. While we're here here....anyone got a Nice DW Paul Newman dial (7753) they want to sell

My concern is what movement mod have they done to raise the datwheel and have to freeze the hour counter? Best wait until it's proven reliable. Still not good enough for me to buy one and I really want a Navi.

Both movements will do the job so use what you have, I have both and prefer the one that is shown on the cousins website. I would e-mail them with your pictures and point out they are different movements and see what they say. I used PolexPetes DWO. I used 3M SprayMount (sprayed onto the back of the DWO) to mount it to the date wheel, this is a tacky glue that allows repositioning because it will take a few attempts to get it lined up ok. Hope all go's alright and look forward to seeing your build

Have a look under the balance wheel and see if the main plate is stamped with the 'horned emblem' if you look at the cousins listing there is 2 pictures the one I posted and the backside, the backside picture you can just make out the emblem. Also you will not see them blue screws and coloured winding wheel on the cousins picture. If your movement does not have this then I would contact cousins and query it, highlighting the differences and the fact that the DG movements have the main plate stamped with their logo.

That's what I initially thought but if it ran then the impulse jewel must of been in the fork. If you took it apart no further than the pictures above then I would go back and take out the hacking lever, check thoroughly for any tiny hairs or dirt in the movement and put it back together without the having lever, it's a pretty useless bit of metal anyway

This is the picture os the DG3804 from Cousins, This is the movement I have too, but yours looks like the inferior model that is supplied in the Cartel 1655. Does it have a purple coloured auto wind wheel on the other side. Take a picture of the other side with a clear shot of the balance assembly. Is there a date wheel overlay on the cartel movement? If so, yes peel it off and position it over the date wheel on your movement. Don't remove that plate unless you like spending hours on your hands and knees looking for jumper springs

So it did run after you done the repair?

Just for information, that's a etachock spring not inca bloc, good luck. Sent from my iBend 6

Invest in a mainspring winder if you are going to be servicing mainsprings. I imagine most commercial watch smiths don't bother with servicing as you can get 'most' mainsprings off the shelf from places like Cousins UK etc. It saves a lot of trouble and time if you just replace the mainspring rather than service it. I do it for practice for when the time comes (maybe) that I have to do it. I have just ordered a 2824-2 spring from Cousins.

I like...alot! I'm interested

See the Gentleman in post No 4 above

Reported

The latest Asian 6497 movement has a Incabloc modification that 'mimics' the real Unitas/ETA 6497. The first thing that sold this as a fake is to me was the micrometric screw, it's way too short It's an Asian

JoeyB...I love a GMT! Lovely stuff Out of interest/learning, did the GMT crown size go from this 6mm to 5.3mm and then back to 6mm?

If you want to shift a 1675 insert I'm looking...just saying like [emoji2] Anyway, I'm off down the local watch smiths for a rummage through his drawers...nice one! Sent from my iBend 6

Just wandering what you guys do when replacing a mainspring, of a known calibre. Do you measure it and buy one per the measurements or do you buy one per the calibre reference? Ive got to do a ETA 2824-2 mainspring and I have the choice of buying the whole barrel complete with arbour and mainspring, measuring it and buying by the measurements reference or buying it by the calibre reference. I will probably do the measure and buy from that. I am proficient using the mainspring winder Or I may just make a new hooking (arbour) end snapped What do you guys do?

With the amount of gen parts on this just take to any competent watch smith. I can't see why they wouldn't service it. It's a Valijoux 72 movement not a rep. They might come back and tell you, you have been a victim of fraud. At that point just look horrified, shrug your shoulders and say "oh well I still need it serviced" Good luck.

The ETA labs flash animation may help you along also if you don't already have it/seen it? Good luck Sent from my iBend 6

The Dubois-Depraz is a module that 'bolts' on top of the movement that takes care of the chrono functions.

I took my oilers to a fine whetstone after reading this and they are now so much better, I squared off the tips, made the tip flatter and the polishing action also helped in getting the oil off the oiler onto the part I was oiling. I can't believe that none of our tutors thought us this when quite a few of my class (training in Horology) struggled with cap jewel oiling and pallet stone oiling due to the oil not running off the oiler. Thank's for the heads up.

Standard movement in these high end reps is the Asian 7750, a copy of the ETA 7750. Forget about the quartz, they are low end cheapies. The 7750 chronograph functions will behave just like the genuine model.