ceejay

Blimey, I would try everything in my power to go gen all the way, don't dare touch them hands and dial...PLEASE! It's a plexi crystal so can be polished fairly easy. I think your first port of call is getting that movement looked at by a good watchsmith. If the movements knackered then it's either sell it for parts, source a gen movement or go rep movement. Yes the small hand will add value. Do it proper, it deserves it

Sigh...one day my 6241 will become a reality. Lovely stuff

If the watch runs ok when it is dial up but stops when you turn it over it could be a broken top pivot on the balance wheel. If you look at my post above I stress when tightening the balance c ock screw that if the balance wheel gets trapped or stuck then stop., this is because the top pivot is not located in the jewel hole correctly. When you continue to tighten you simply snap the top pivot off. The watch will run dial up but as soon as you turn it over...end of. Good luck guys.

Cheers for that, I think I have a plan(with your help) so will go off and look around for the correct parts, I'm in no hurry I have read all about DW so know the risks, I will see how responsive he is through eBay. It's just those pump pushers that I need to look into.

Never, ever, ever...Oh never say never A rep movement has to fit more than one watch and this is the only watch this movement goes with. Sure is a beauty though,but I find many of the Tag designs are, modern cutting edge. The carbon AP was easy, they just had to make the case, the movement is generic

2.5k is better than I was thinking I have a few contacts in the vintage watch industry here in the UK so hopefully I can get a decent V72. I have my eye on a DW case but it has the screw down pushers. Any idea on the availability on the pump pushers and the whether they are interchangeable with the screw down? The Yuki dial looks like a good deal including the handset Cheers.

When you say the hairspring is broke, what do you mean, bent, snapped or come apart from it's assembly? If it's snapped then it's new hairspring time, which a good watchmaker could fabricate although no doubt pricey. If it's bent then again a good watchmaker should be able to straighten it. Same if it's come away from it's fixing. But there must be lot's of dead 7750's out there if you ask about

Precista PRS 18A

Sorry I'm just too new to the vintage Rolex scene to know what this means, if you could break it down for me I would apreciate it. I had a search of Josh's and it is listed there which was really a surprise to me as I didn't think it was an off the shop rep. Now the description say's the old " best ever, blah..." I guess my first steps if I went this route would be a better dial and a Valijoux 72 movement to unfix the subdial hand @ 6. Does anyone know if say a Yuki dial and V72 are a viable option for the Josh rep? Lovely stuff, at least I'm getting somewhere with your help

Cheers fella, I will get cracking with some more research. This is going to be a long winding road

If so how do I start to build one...apart from going to have a friendly word with my bank manager! Are there rep parts available? Is it a totally custom build or is there a off the peg (TD's?) base to start with. I adore this watch.

Smiths Deluxe? George Daniels Co-Axial?

Oh I don't know, they are nice photo's

Guys, how do the dual barrels interact to give you a longer power reserve? Do you think experimenting with different mainsprings would yield better results?

At a guess I would say this movement is very much still protected by copyright. I don't imagine it was designed solely for the rep market so it will be going to many legitimate companies and watches. As a result I can't imagine we will see anything closer or better than we have until they have shifted a couple of million movements. But then again, I could be talking out of my ass Does anyone know what the movement is actually called, I would like to get hold of one (unbranded) for a project in class? Also what are the dimensions of the movement, diameter & depth? Thanks for your work fella's

I'm an espresso man, Gaggia Classic and an Iberital MC2 grinder. Basic but produces wonderful espresso once you have it all dialled in

On the gen and if you swap for the DG3804 the GMT hand is not independent, also the gen does not have a hacking feature. you could ask jj to remove this if you wanted as it's an easy mod and will not affect the running of the movement.

Cartel are the trusted dealers. Joshua @ Perfect Clones Andrew @ Trusty Time Buy from either of these dealers and you will receive a cartel model.

I can only talk about the 1675 as I have not owned the other model. 1, Yes the 1675 bezel turns in both directions without a clik, it does not operate the same as say a Submariner Divers Model. 2, Their is no seperate GMT hand adjustment on the 1675 (there shouldn't be) It should operate like a normal watch. After unscrewing the crown the first click when pulled out will be the date adjustment, try rotating the crown in both direction to move the date wheel. When you pull the crown out to the second click all 3 hands (minute, hour & GMT) should all move together, at 12 oclock midnight they should all be pointing to 12 oclock. The GMT hand does one rotation every 24 hours so at 12oclock midday the GMT hand should be at the 6oclock position. Hope this helps.

I don't get it, if this was built to replicate the Cal P3000 then why couldn't they at least put the bridge screws in the correct location and the gear train jewels are a instant give away. I'm not knocking it as I think it looks great, I love the barrel bridge andI look forward to your tear down of this beauty.

Blimey, if I am seeing what I think I'm seeing that's bodging to a whole new level to me? I see no centre post that the canon pinion (the smaller wheel attached to the back of your dial) pushes on to. The post should stick out through the centre of the movement. Now it was either never there and so everything was held together by sheer luck or the watch has taken quite a knock and as said above the centre post has broken inside the cannon pinion? There are also no dial feet on the back of the dial to secure the dial to the movement. Is the movement still working ok? You could try and re-bodge it by putting double sided sticky tape on the back of the dial and sticking it all back together and hope for the best. Or do it properly with a new cannon pinion and centre wheel as advised above. Also dial dots or double sided tape to secure the dial. Do bare in mind though that a new asian 6497 goes for around £25-30 ($40-$45?)

You guys are killing me....and my wallet!

I wish I had a bigger wrist, these V6's are stunning quality. Looks great.

Blimey, I'm no expert, just learning. That Rolexman is the expert Just to add, the hacking function is there to set the time more accurately. The watch will function just fine if the hacking lever was removed. Shame you can't just pull the thing out! Getting it done properly is a wise decision & well done for having a crack at it

Forget about dissembling the movement down to the stage in your photo, you will never get it back together again, trust me! I guess that you have jumped/pushed the hacking lever out of the groove that it sits in the castle/clutch wheel. You need to try the least intrusive method of fixing it as there are many pitfalls that will leave you in a much worse position. I would try this.... Remove the balance assembly. To do this you just remove the 1 screw that is located at the 4 o'clock position in your photo above. Using a pair of tweezers gently lift up the balance bridge that the balance wheel sits underneath. As you lift it up the balance spring and wheel should follow. Sometimes the balance wheel can get hooked and you don't want to damage your balance spring so give it a little wiggle to release it. If all go's well then you will be holding the balance c ock (bridge) with the balance wheel dangling by the spring. This is OK the balance spring will not be damaged with just the weight of the balance wheel. Gently place it somewhere safe:) Now with a pin or needle you should be able to push the end of the hacking lever where it pressed onto the balance wheel. Try doing this with the stem inserted and engaged for normal use. Wiggle the stem to see if you can 'jump' the hacking lever back into it's groove. You may need a helping hand to do this You will know if you are successful when you move the stem in and out of the hand setting position the end of the hacking lever will move in and out where you have been pressing on it with the pin. If all go's well then you need to replace the balance c ock. To replace the balance c ock(bridge) gently lift it back into position with tweezers, it's quite tricky as you have to align the impulse jewel with the pallet lever which is underneath and out of view and the top and bottom pivots of the balance wheel.. But don't stress, this all sounds difficult but with a bit of perseverance you will have it back on. Before you tighten the balance c ock screw gently flick the balance wheel (stem in normal running position) and the watch should run. If doesn't start ticking then you either have the impulse pin outside of the pallet fork or your pivots are not in there holes. Do not tighten the balance c ock securing screw until you have it installed properly! If the balance wheel is located properly or the watch is ticking then start to tighten the balance c ock screw, if at any stage the balance become trapped or stuck STOP! loosen it and start again. Summary: Remove balance assembly Press end of hacking lever with pin or needle with stem inserted and wiggle stem to get hacking lever back into correct position. Replace balance assembly ensuring balance is moving freely before tightening retaining screw. Job done? I would say this is the least intrusive method and 'may' work. If it does not then I think you need to get it to a watch smith as removing the hands and dial then messing with the keyless works is tricky stuff. Good luck