predfan2001

I just realized this is a duplicate post. I posted nearly the exact same thing awhile back. Sorry guys, I love the nodates but with the quality (or lack of) they're available in, I've been trying to make up mind which one to buy. I ended up ordering the 14060 from Trusty to start with. It appears to have the best dial. It already has a non-sel bracelet and it has lug holes. I'll have to do some cg and pearl mods then I'll see how it looks. There was another pretty good post about nodates if anybody wants to read it, here it is: RWG post: Sub 14060 nodate

I think I remember at least one that someone posted here awhile back. My thoughts are getting a nodate rep. (like the one trusty sells), removing the movement and installing into a "noobmariner". The cyclops will have to be removed and lugholes drilled. Just wondering if anybody has any info. on doing this. Are there any dial size or movement compatability issues? I realize nodate Subs are not the most accurate reps, I just want a "fair to good" quality result, I'm not expecting perfection.

Hey, get off me. I said I was no expert Just kidding. I'm giving a rookies view. Just what I know about this watch, and that ain't much. I still like it though. I'm still gonna get the ETA version with the drilled lug holes. I realize that if you bought 3 of these watches and put all the parts together, you could get one half a$4 replica. I just think the one I picked is the closest of them all with out mods. I'd be happy!

I'm no expert on these, but I've been wanting one myself. I bought the asian rep just to see if I liked it. It was total crap, but I like the style of the watch. A nice change of pace, I usually have Subs. From what I've seen there are four basic options. 1. The MBW which is not very good. Too many flaws for the price. 2. The asian movement vintage which, as I said is total crap. The crystal is glued in, the rehaut is too shallow and my movement quit in a matter of days. The dial on mine was crooked on the movement which made the date window off center. It has a neat riveted bracelet though (I don't even think the riveted bracelet ever came on the 1665?) which I plan to use on another project. 3. The ETA movement with the "marker" second hand. This one looks pretty good, but it is in a modern style case so there are no lug holes. It is avail. with an orange or yellow GMT hand. The date magnification looks weak on the ones I've seen. The bracelet is a Sub style with a flip lock..not correct, but practical. 4. The ETA movement with the straight second hand. This one has a nice bracelet with the correct clasp. The dial is good as well as the magnification, but the date font appears wrong to me. The case has lug holes. I'm going with #4. I think the 1665 Explorer is a very cool watch even though it is hard to tell what time it is at a glance. All of the markers make it a little confusing.

Enough, read alot of the dealer reviews. Evidently you haven't. Seems there are quite a few compliants on you and your lack of communicating with your customers.

I can't stop looking at this post. I have to get one of these. I hope there is another source (read to many complaints on TTKs attitude and his lack of communications) Anybody know what they run? From other collectors?

Very cute, a real princess. You are blessed.

Ok, now she's [censored] off. First she said she's not "my old lady". Second she's offended by the "replica" remark. She wants me to let you know that those are full blooded Dachshunds, not replicas!

Why? Any particular reason? Because we're too ugly. How 'bout post your old ladies. Thats better to look at. Here's my 3 girls:

Good point, but I live in what I would call "a Harley town". It seems like there are more hogs per capita than any other town I've seen. So the dealer here seems to take advantage of the craze. The only Harley I like is a Dyna called a Street Bob. It should sell for around $13995 retail. That's not even close around here. They want more like $17000. It's ridiculous. I've heard that they even have a little scam where they title the bikes, add accessories and sells them used for even higher prices. Something about Harley capping mark up and they get around it this way?? Just what the rumor is. If I was going to spend that much I would go with the Victory Vegas 8 Ball (yes, I like black bikes). It is the baddest looking bike out there in my opinion and it does sell for $13995. But then again, I don't really need a 100 ci bike as a starter. See the 8 Ball here I see your point about resell as well, but it stands to reason that you will loose a few grand on a new Harley if you go to sell it or trade it. The loss is no greater on the Yamaha. A used V Star in good shape with still bring $3500-$4000 no problem. I guess I'll stick with the V Star for now, we'll see how is goes at the dealer this weekend. They also sell Victory so I think about the Vegas 8 Ball as well.

I've got the itch to ride. I've had several dirt bikes, but never a street cruiser. Not really knowing if I'll like a cruiser or not, I have narrowed my search to a new V Star 650 by Yamaha. Everybody I work with says buy a Harley, but I'm not really wanting to spend $18,000 on a starter bike. The V Star retails for $5899 brand new. I've been to the dealer and this is no small bike. It is low and wide. I really like the softtail rear suspension set up as opposed to outboard mounted shocks. I know the 650 is no power house, but the larger displacement V Stars look bulky. I like plain and simple, check out this picture and see what you think. It's just a lowered V Star 650 with the turn signals removed and a custom seat. The guy that owns it says most people think it is a Harley at first glance, but not quite a replica is it. Not bad for less than $6000.

No doubt. Get a Ultimate Planet Ocean. Awesome rep.

I guess I just never paid attention, but are there not any white 1680 Submariner reps (not MBW)? I have about 5 collectors saved to my favorites and none have this watch. I see reds, Cartiers, and Comexs' but no white 1680s. Is there a reason for this or am I overlooking a site that sells this watch?

Below is a picture of my GMT that I have recently added a SMP bracelet to. I purchased it a few weeks back and upon close inspection I found it to be "fair" at best. The clasp, half links and end links appear to be dead on, but the bracelet isn't the greatest. The picture I posted below may not be the best to see details in, but if you look close, you may see some of the faults. The bracelet does not have the curvature like a gen. An original SMP is thicker in the center, like a PO bracelet giving it a rounded look. The bracelet is also very thin, much thinner than the half links on the clasp. The thin polished areas are perfect on the end links, but flat and poorly defined on the bracelet. Also the links in the bracelet are too flat and squared off. I have already sanded the edges to round them off a little, all of the edges were very sharp. Maybe I'm being a little critical, but I was wondering if any reps had a better band. This one is fine for my asian GMT, but I would not be happy if I received this band on a $200 SMP rep. I hope there are better ones out there. Please post pics if you have them.

I have started to notice that some of the older gen. SMPs I have seen have started to show heavy yellowing of the markers and pearls. When I saw the picture of the previous generation SMP (the top one) it reminded me of some of the vintage gen Subs I have seen. I've always thought that if I had a "rough" genuine Submariner, there's no way that I would restore the dial, band and bezel. That just adds character. Over the past 10 years, I have become a huge Omega fan and I actually like the size and feel of a SMP better than a Sub. I've been "vintaging" a few Rolex reps but unfortunatly if you want a quality vintage Rolex rep, you have to start with a MBW. Sorry but I'm not spending that much on a rep to modify. By the time you buy a MBW and all of the needed genuine parts, you'd have as much invested as you could buy a gen. used SMP. I know it's all a matter of opinion, but I have owned both and I like the Omegas better. I'm at the point anymore that I almost dread wearing my gen Datejust, the first thing out of everyones mouth is "is that a real one?" I have a rep ETA UPO and a couple asian GMTs, but I am really wanting to get a Bond style SMP and "vintage" it some to give it some character. Yellow the markers, bleach the insert and give the bracelet some patina. I figure I'd start with an ETA SMP, maybe from Silix so I'd have no more than $180.00 or so invested. Mainly just wanted to let who ever post this topic before that "I'm with ya". I think it's a good idea and would be an interesting project. I may do it soon and if I do, I'll post pics.

Just to be clear on what I mean, I'm not talking about buying a beat up gen. I'm talking about "vintaging" a rep. to look worn and tattered. I really don't think many understand the attraction, but then again, I like "Ratrods" and not Ferraris.

I'm sure that I read a post here a month or so back where someone asked opinions on "vintaging" Seamasters. I can't find it now, but I don't think many (if any) posted opinions on this issue. I thought that it was an interesting idea. The current Seamasters are old enough now that seeing one "well worn" would be a possibility. I was on the net trying to buy gens when I ran across these two watches. Granted they are a previous generation but they kind of make me wonder if a vintaged SMP rep might be a fun project. Heck, some of the Rolex guys think a vintaged "red" is cool, why not a SMP?

Not my favorite Omega. The numerals on the insert are a little too bold for my taste. My personal opinion is that you can't beat the classic Bond style SMP in appeal. Which ever watch you choose, I'd go with the ETA. Dependability and jumpy second hands have been issues with some of my asian movement watches.

Try the method that has been mentioned here several times. It has worked everytime for me. Get a quality (3M autobody grade) masking tape. Make a ball a little smaller than a golf ball (with the sticky side out of course). Push it down on the case back flattening it out and adhering to the case back and unscrew. And the best part is NO tool marks. It may not work on every watch but I've had luck with it. I was actually pretty amazed.

The latest word is that if Nashville can keep a fan turn out of 14k per game, they can't be moved. We almost did that last season. Maybe with the hype of wanting to keep the team here and the excitement over a few veteran players aquired last season, it might happen. I heard about the Pittsburg deal, I'm sure everybody there was relieved.

It has been "predfan2001" for years. Now the word is that the owner of the Nashville Predators has sold the team to the owner of the company that makes Blackberry phones. Most people feel he'll move the team. That's a real bummer. I have been a big fan. Guess I'll have to start watching the Titans again. :yucky:

I am not a big fan of the Noob dial. It looks good for what it is but not the best. The "S" in submariner is spaced out too far and slightly crooked. If you zoom in on this you can spot a Noob dial every time.

Some of you may have seen in another post where I installed a Bond style SMP band on my asian GMT rep. It turned out good but was a little more work than I realized. New lug holes had to be drilled for it to fit. Here it is: Now here's the funny part. I looked down at my wrist today and guess what I found? Check out this: A Speedmaster Bond bracelet? The dealer couldn't believe that it was possible so I had to send him a pic of the shipping package with the band. He is sending me another but it is humorous.

A bit of a mess, but here it is:

Just got the SMP bracelet installed. Making sure the new lug holes hold.