predfan2001

I'd stick with the stainless band. Replacement bracelets are available from several of our trusted dealers. They are even on eBay. I bought a rep SMP bracelet off of eBay and used the clasp on my gen GMT band. It looks great.

I've had a few issues with rep purchases but they have usually worked out. I've had to get a little snippy (but never rude) to finally get results. I really feel for these guys. Can you imagine the volume of e-mails and problems they deal with daily. I'd say that up to 30% of most reps have some sort of an issue. Our trusted dealers must spend alot of time on the computer just handling problems. I've dealt in watches before (not reps) and I know that it can be very stressful. Many of the customers I had dealings with were total flakes. Many would tear up their watches and then try to blame me. Selling automatics were the worst. Many newbies just can't quite grasp how automatics operate. I actually had customers e-mail me all [censored] off because their $1000 Omega had quit after 3 days laying on the dresser. Duh!! The headaches were why I quit selling. Just remember to be nice, have your facts straight and be patient. I hope it works out for you, but if not, move on and learn a lesson. I've come to realize that in rep collecting, you will loose money from time to time (especially in International shipping). When you find a good dealer, stick with them! Andrew has always treated me great so he gets the first shot at my business.

That bloke on the left in the picture originally posted is wearing a Panerai!

It's been the GMT rep. all week. Love the genuine band.

I really only like Rolex and Omega reps and here's my luck so far: 1. Omega 4th gen PO (Had a chip inside the crystal and a big scratch on the bezel upon arrival-seller let me exchange it) 2. Rolex 1655 with asian movement (quit after 2 days, I said screw it and kept it to practice mods and disassembly on) 3 & 4. Omega GMT with asian movement (I have 2 of these now, 1 with a Speedy band and 1 with a SMP band. No problems so far with either one) 5. Ultimate Rolex Submariner (very nice and very reliable but the rehaut is a little conical) 6. Rolex Submariner 14060 nodate (the watch I received was nothing like the one pictured on the site-it's just a nodate dial in a modern case with no lugholes. I'm returning it) 7. Omega Ultimate PO (my favorite-no problems at all. Great time piece) 8. Rolex 1655 with ETA (DOA-stem stays in time set mode all the time, no detents. Can't wind or set date-it's going back) I'm still waiting on a 5517 and a 5513 to come in, keeping my fingers crossed. I would like to add that even though I have had more than my share of product problems, I have had no problems with my sellers. I primarily buy from 2 sellers (trustytime and brand9ave) and they have both bent over backwards to help me when there is a problem. Andrew is so nice, I hate to have to tell him if there is a problem.

I thought pipe gobblers only wore Rolex Cellenis

To answer the questions. Yes, this rep. band had pins and not screws. I didn't buy it from a dealer here. I found it on eBay. Several people sell rep. bands there (I feel sorry for the people that think they're genuine...I've seen people bid way to much). As for the extra parts (links, clasp and end links) I listed them on eBay yesterday so I can't sell them outright yet. If they don't sell there, I make take trades or offers.

Well it all started when I read By-Tor's review of the asian movement Omega GMT. After reading the review and seeing the pictures, I had to have one. So I ordered mine from Andrew. Upon arrival I was thrilled. It looked wonderful but I really didn't like the Speedmaster style bracelet. So I desided to add a SMP bracelet. My next step was ordering a rep. Bond style SMP bracelet. The clasp and end links appeared almost perfect but the links were far from accurate. They were very flat and had little definition. Then I noticed the clasp said "Speedmaster". I e-mailed the dealer and he couldn't believe it so I sent him a picture to prove it. It had to be a mix up at the factory. The dealer then sent me another bracelet with the correct engraved "Seamaster" logo. The SMP end links are different from the GMT end links so installing the SMP band required drilling new lug holes futher inward in the case so there is no gap or looseness to the endlinks. 6 drill bits later the new SMP band was on, but I really wasn't happy with the appearance of the poor quality links. They were way too thin and lacked the curvature of the genuine SMP band. I lucked up and found a gen. GMT bracelet on eBay and purchased it. When I received the gen. GMT band, I found that the clasp was very weak, the slightest bump to the release caused the clasp to open (possibly normal for this style clasp??). In addition, the band was 1 link too short. So I chose to install the rep. Seamaster clasp. By doing so the band would require fewer links so it would fit my wrist and the SMP clasp works much better. When I tried mating the rep. half links to the genuine links, I found that the genuine links were slightly larger so the rep. half links had to be opened up a tad. Once installed the band looked great but then I found that the gen. end links had yet another lug position. They would not work because they would require a lughole between the original one and the ones I had drilled. There was no room left between so the only solution was to install the rep. end links on to the genuine band. The rep. endlinks actually look better than the genuines anyway. After fitting the rep. end links, all is good. The bracelet completes the watch and other than the slightly jumpy sweep, it looks nearly perfect. Plus it has the correct "feel" with the additional weight of the gen. links. Here are some pics although poor quality. Here it is out of the box: With the rep. SMP bracelet: The Speedmaster clasp: Finally with the gen. links added:

I had almost forgot about this one: Bond watch So chessy it's cool.

Ok, before I dive in again here's one last question. This is a generic photo used by several collectors. I have found a collector that claims to still have this very watch for sale. Has anybody actually purchased one of these and if so, how was the overall quality. I know the cgs need alot of work but all and all, it looks ok to me.

I wear it on my left wrist and the "slightest" bump causes the clasp to open (maybe that's why somebody was selling it on eBay??). It may be a weak spring condition, if so I don't see a way to correct that short of replacing the clasp. I was just in my shop pressing the pins out to see if it was a match (a quality rep engraved SMP clasp to gen links), it didn't work. The rep half links will have to be filed on to open them up for the gen links. The pins are the same size though. I was in a car wreck this weekend, rolled my Jeep so I really don't feel up to alot of filing right now. I'll post an update later.

What's your opinion on a genuine Omega GMT bracelet (Bond style with the single side clasp release). I just put one on my rep and I think it sucks. The cheesy clasp comes undone with the slightest bump. It will even come undone if you bend your wrist far enough to hit the release. I'm wondering if they are all this way or if the spring is weak. The gen band "makes" the watch but I'm thinking about putting my rep SMP clasp on it if it fits the gen links.

So much bling I'll have to wear my shades

I have the same series of PO. It's my favorite watch and I hardly ever take it off. The bad thing is that after you get used to the size and weight, most other watches feel like ladies models. I've had mine several months with no problems and I've only had to adjust the time once so I guess it's pretty darn accurate. The only flaw (other that the feet on the Omega logo) is that only about half of the tip of the second hand is painted, but it's barely noticed.

Believe me, I'd much rather have a 5513 with a plexi crystal. I had one of the last year models of the 5513 made many years ago but damaged it really bad. Traded it for the SS Datejust I have now. I miss that watch and that's the whole reason I'm so obsessed with getting a nodate replica (a gen is not in the budget). I have had date models but they just don't fill the void. I had an old 5513 dial but sold it once I found out it would most likely only fit a MBW case. As far as mod'ing, I know my limits. Pulling a movement, crystal replacement and case/cg mods are about as much as I feel comfortable with. I've pulled hands a few times and had no luck. Either the movement was dead afterwards or I couldn't get the second hand back on. I don't want perfection, just a nodate to pacify my sentimental attachments. Right now the best plan I can come up with is to get a cn 5517 rep because it appears to have a pretty nice dial. Pull the movement and put it into a case that accepts a bracelet (if I can find a used cn sub case). If anybody has any better ideas, please let me know. Good to hear from you Kurt. I used to have a good friend that worked at Lexus of Cool Springs near you. He had many famous clients in the country music industry and I used to sell gens though him to several country stars. C ya!

Well I just got a message saying the replacement is already on the way via EMS. I chose the Steve McQueen 1655 Explorer. I'll never wear it I'm sure, I just like the looks of it. I had an asian movement 1655 that I practiced disassembly and mods on. The more I looked at it, the more I liked it. So the hunt continues. About 3 of our collectors have the same 14060 pics listed on their websites. I'm gonna message them to see which 14060 they actually sell. If any still sell the model pictured, I may order one unless someone advises me of a better option for a nodate.

A re-dial wouldn't help this watch. That's only one issue. The case still has no lugholes, the band is a modern style sel and the rehaut is way too conical. I believe this is the same watch in a prior post (from a different collector) 14060 post here I would rather have a refund, but I don't see that happening. I just have to make up my mind on what rep to exchange this gem for. I'm about to start likeing Omegas better again.

Your exactly right. I don't want to slam him because he is a "collector" here and he has always treated me right in the past. He claims he doesn't drop ship and inspects all items. I will give him every opportunity to correct this. I do understand that suppliers and products change, it's just that the website should be updated when this happens. All of us here survey an item closely before we purchase it. As I said before, I had thought about this item for awhile and had it been the item pictured, I'd have no complaints. If I listed a Corvette on eBay and then delivered a Mustang when it sold, I don't think "that item is no longer available, this is the replacement" would work.

Reading and research were not the issue here. I know reps and I know gens. I understood that I was ordering a "fair at best" replica (but the short comings could be improved). Instead I received a very poor, non-production replica. Remember the seller is justifing it by telling me that all modern 14060s have sel bands and no lug holes in the case. They don't! Everybody that keeps saying this only knows date models. The 14060 has changed once since the 5513, that was the 14060M which has an improved movement and a slightly different dial. It's a virtually unchanged classic. A victim of bait and switch? Now I have to worry about sending a watch half way around the world and just hoping the seller receives it. And as I said, if he does receive it, I'm not even sure what to exchange for.

I have been trying to get a "fair" quality nodate Sub. for months now and still I'm coming up dry. After much thought, I ordered a modern ETA 14060 rep. that looked "close enough" on the sellers webpage. The pics showed the case having lug holes, the correct hollow end link band and a nice 14060M dial. When I received it, it had no lug holes in the case, a modern sel band and western fonts for the "Oyster Perpetual". It's based on the rep models that have the movement sitting low in the case which sits the crown low to give a better rehaut. The rehaut is conical of course. I almost threw up when I saw it. The seller is telling me that it is correct, all of the new 14060s have no lug holes and sel band. Never the less I'm returning it because I would never wear such a hidious watch in public. The seller is telling me he'll give me an exchange, but I don't even know what I would want to exchange it for. I'm hearing now that the vintage nodate may no longer be available. My main objectives are a decent appearing nodate Sub and it must have an oyster band. The only option I can think of is to get a 5517 (because it appears to have a nice dial and fonts) and swap the movement into a like vintage case with an oyster band. Any ideas?

Excuse me, I just threw up on my keyboard!

Risky for rookies to buy bands off of eBay. I've seen the SMP rep bracelets and the rep rubber PO straps go for anywhere from $100-$200. The auctions lead you to believe they are gens. I'm sure the same stuff goes on with Rolex bands.

Hey, sign me up for the giveaway! Lol, actually I have an "Ultimate" from Andrew that feels pretty light to me. Maybe its the band causing the light feel??

I finally ordered a modern nodate rep. I had hesitated because I thought the font was way off on the "Submariner" text on the dial. Especially the "S". Turns out, the text on the rep is correct for the 14060M. I had been compairing this rep to a standard 14060 which has the traditional Sub text. The 14060M has a more modern looking font. My plans are to fix the cgs, smooth and polish the bezel teeth, yellow the markers "slightly" and give it a little patina. We'll see how it turns out from there. Pic of gen 14060M: Here's the rep 14060: Trustytime 14060

Anybody know if this is right or will it work. Couldn't you make an 80s vintage 5513 with the current 14060 reps by installing a plastic crystal? Plastic crystal for 14060 nodate