junbug5150

Quick heads up: If you're going with the T22, the inner bezel ring may need to be shaved down a bit to fit. GL!

Woohoo! Congrats my friend! Looks incredible and nice work using the Seiko movement!

Great, thanks Matt. Time to fire up the dremel!

Hi everyone, I just bought a cheap case off of my friend over on RWI so I can start playing around and practice reshaping. I have no idea what case this even is, but noticed the "ORIG POLLX DESING 116610". The CG wouldn't accept a 7mm so I put on a 6mm I had laying around, so I doubt it's a Sub-C case... It's got lugholes... I did a quick search and someone here mentioned that the engravings are typically associated with MBW cases. So, I thought I'd check with you guys for you input. Perhaps I shouldn't mess with this one? Or give it a go and tear this piece up? Thanks!

Insane! I've seen some well over $1K up for sale on m2m that doesn't even compare to this! Great work and thank you for a fantastic step by step!

I normally remove the stem on ETAs in time setting position. I re-install it and once engaged, give it a light outward pull. You hear is engage back to the time setting position. Never had any issues with it.

Etsy is another great place to find custom strap makers. Just be sure to check out their work as a good % are amatures just getting started.

Just completed Franken Fantasy 1505 w/ Tudor Blue Linen

Thanks, Dayo! You were the OG that got me hooked!

Ask Adrian He's the one that told me what I needed to use for a Silix case with his crown & tube.

Thank you both for adding pointers! I'm happy to see that I'm able to contribute back to the forum!

Hi everyone, I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful Tools & Parts: - Silix 5510/6538 case - Rat tail file - Table Vise - Cordless Drill (>7.8volt) - Lubricant for metal cutting - Tap Wrench - 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit - M4x0.35mm Tap First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise. Voila! Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through. Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier. Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it. I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case. Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube. And there we go BONUS: So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube. For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself Hope this was useful! Good luck!