junbug5150

Hi everyone, I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful Tools & Parts: - Silix 5510/6538 case - Rat tail file - Table Vise - Cordless Drill (>7.8volt) - Lubricant for metal cutting - Tap Wrench - 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit - M4x0.35mm Tap First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise. Voila! Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through. Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier. Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it. I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case. Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube. And there we go BONUS: So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube. For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself Hope this was useful! Good luck!

H-Fac 114 w/ Di Stefano Campinoe Blue

H-Fac 114 w/ Di Stefano Campinoe Blue

Read this on another forum: Rotate the crown 1 full turn. If it moves 45min then it's a ETA or Clone 2824/34/36-2. If it moves 1.5 hours, 21J But once you've owned both you can hear the beat and can tell by simply winding the crown to charge.

Ha! I saw this the other day!

:)

$175. I haven't seen these go for less than $250.

Thank you! Quick comparison between mine and this article I based this watch off of: http://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6350-explorer/

Thank you guys so much! Means a lot coming from you guys on this forum!

The Explorer History: The Explorer series is perhaps one of the more underappreciated lines by Rolex. Yet, it is the oldest Rolex series that’s still being produced today. While versions of the Explorer existed prior to (See 6150, 6298, & 6098), it was not officially registered until 1953 when Rolex register the first Explorer with their 6350 model. As a comparison the ever-popular Submariner series came a year later in 1954, followed by their GMT series in 1955. Their 6350 was also the first to carry the name ‘Explorer’ on the dial. It can be argued that it was simply Rolex’s marketing, which coincided when Sir Hillary climbed Mt. Everest that gave the line its allure today. The Passion and Pursuit: The Explorer line has been my personal favorite. The simplicity of the dial and case, combined with the distinct 3-6-9 drew me to the superfluous 1016s. My first was from Stan, which I sold after owning the piece no more than 3 weeks. Since letting that go, I’ve been wanting to get my hands on another. I decided to build my own as I came across a great deal on 1016 cases from stonep, who I was lucky to connect. He now owns my wallet. In fact, I built a pair: one for wife and one for myself. Extra kudos as I was able to finish right before Mother’s Day: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/222377-Finally-finished-My-wife-s-1016?highlight=wife+1016 Being the serial flipper that I am, the build I made for myself found itself on the m2m sales thread shortly after. But I was drawn to the Gilt 1016 dial which belonged to my wife. I knew jmb case was the only way to go for another 1016 build so I had Justin make me one. The Gilt dial I chose was Yuki and it’s been my favorite since. While I flip watches frequently, this one will certainly stick around: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/264329-My-Ultimate-1016?highlight=wife+1016 A simple question by Mendota regarding the chapter ring on the dial landed me to this article: http://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6350-explorer/. I was hooked. The 6350 was going to be my next project. In this article I learned not just the Explorer history, but one of the most collectible version of the 6350: The Honeycomb. When vito1 found the refinished Beyeler dial on the Bay, I knew it had to be mine. Once I secured the dial I couldn’t hold myself back. And now it’s complete: My 6350 The Result: Specs: - Refinished Beyeler 6350 Honeycomb dial - - jmb v2 case vintaged and caseback bubbled by Justin; Engraved with my birth year - - Gen 6mm Brevet + crown - - Gen T22 domed plexi - - Felsa 4007n from Ofrei - - Lollipop hands - - Vintage 20mm strap from Etsy - - 2mm spring bars The Struggles: This wasn’t without its fair share of challenges. The T-22 wouldn’t fit inside the jmb bezel and the Brevet crown wasn’t made for modern gen tubes. Thankfully Justin told me to hold off on tapping the case until I verify the size. I had a rep crown that happened to thread with the Brevet, but was too long and needed to be shaved. All of the above, jmb handled for me. Once I began assembling everything together, I ran into a few more problems. The lollipop hands I got looked weird with the white lume paste, so I had to remove it and re-apply a yellowish paste. The dial diameter was too big to fit the case so I had to shave it down. Same with the movement holder. Felsa says it’s 11.5 ligne, but I think it’s a bit bigger than that since none of my movement holders worked. Finally, I had to broach the second hand. The 4007n has a 0.21mm for their second hand vs. 0.25mm on ETAs. After a few attempts I was finally able to put this thing together. Acknowledgement: Special thank you to those mentioned in this thread. I especially want to thank Justin for working with me on this project. I’m very fortunate that we share the same passion for the Explorers and wouldn’t have been able to finish this without his help. Cheers to you, sir.

Waiting on my denim strap for this guy

Waiting on my denim strap for this guy

Waiting on my denim strap for this guy

I was fortunate to get a few from whoopy here. I'd check m2m in parts throughout all rep forums or VRM (Vintage Rolex Market).

My friend Subjeff made these. It's a gen Watham pocket watch from 1902 that was serviced and put into a 44mm rep PAM case

Thanks! Yes it is!