HauteHippie

Is it a flat crystal? If so I can look into providing you with a replacement if you can give the exact dimensions.

Thanks for the responses thus far. However I do have to commit to a 100 pc order, so I'm going to need to see a little more interest in this if the project is going to proceed.

Awesome Rob!! I'd be proud to send you a guinea pig.

The main question is what is the diameter of the genuine cyclops for your watch? Generally for F,G,H, and I (?) series PAMs the cylopes are around 7mm in diameter (so this new one will be sized appropriately), while the older watches were smaller - 6mm or so. So, for example, the 27a and 28a power reserve reps are better off with the watchmen 6mm cylops.

Hmm... this is indeed fascinating. I suppose the standard charts don't handle the pin hole sizes we're dealing with, and we do need to extrapolate like this. So it is very likely, then, that spinning too slowly is in fact causing most of the problems we've always seen with broken bits and case hardening... Very interesting and unexpected!!

I don't think it is back.... I had emailed King a couple days ago too and basically got the same response.... "could you like waiting more than 3days?because factory said help me find maybe have 2-3case in stock.this item stop so long time.so waiting."

Damn... I think I got his last one then. Nice of him to honor the $55 price he had quoted me a couple weeks prior.

Can I get an MBW 1665 with mine? *sigh* I suppose that is sold separately. Ah well. It's only money!

Pushing harder could have definitely effected the results. Whatever the case may be, there are some unknown variables in either your technique or your setup (or both) because the results are counterintuitive. Here's a common speed chart and description of proper technique: http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/DIY_Meta...l_technique.htm Ignore absolute numbers for now, and just notice the trend that as the metal goes from soft to hard (aluminum, then steel, then stainless steel) speeds get slower and slower. This is common sense and generally accepted. I can't explain what is happening to you, but I would definitely continue to experiment with and try to find proper technique at low speeds. Because although you're not breaking bits at 3000 RPM, the results aren't as good as the could be. Perhaps experimenting on something other than a watch will help to perfect the method. Good stuff, TJ!! Keep at it and soon you'll have quite a skill to behold!

$75ish

Updates: 2/13/2007: The magnifiers are done and shipping out to me today. Final specs: Diameter: 6.9mm 6.75mm Total Thickness: ~1.19mm 1.22mm (should (still) work on 95%+ of watches) Magnification: 1.55X to 1.7X depending on rehaut (distance from date window) Material: Sapphire AR Coating: None. RWG Pricing: $25 USD each up to 2 pieces $20 USD each for 3 or more pieces + a couple bucks for shipping and packaging per order

I would also suggest using a fresh drill bit this time, otherwise we can't be certain the results will improve because there could be some deformation to the old drill bit (that you might not even see).

1 for me. Edit: Mark rocks.

Bill, based on what I see in your pictures, 3000 RPM is too fast. A good general rule of thumb for stainless steel should be 300-600 RPM in my opinion. But rules of thumb are not as important as the results, and you have nothing to lose by running slower than you might otherwise be able to. It will just take a little longer. The deformation of the exit hole, or "bunching" as we seem to be describing it, seen in your pics is caused by heat. The heat is caused by excessive drill bit speed which results in the removal of material too quickly. High speed (3000 RPM) drilling will pack the flutes and metal will be removed faster than it can be cleared, so you will see the exit hole become deformed because material has essentially forced its way out. Material can also be removed too quickly by trying to advance the bit rapidly or the bit may be deforming slightly with too much pressure (excessive feedrate). There is a balance between speed and feedrate. The best approach is to run at the lowest RPM possible, be very gradual about advancing the bit, and use plenty of lubrication. Also, the lugs are sufficiently thin so that you might be able to take the bit up and down to help clear it.

HERE HERE. HAPPY THANKSGIVING YOU TURKEYS!!!!!!

Our thoughts are with you, TTK.

EXCELLENT post. Bravo!! One question though.... Why 3000 RPM? I haven't done a lughole job yet myself, but my instinct would be to spin the drill much slower than that.

Nice post. But I wasn't aware there was 1/2mm of slop in the positioning of the winding stem. Mine seem to snap into place and that's that. I have had to back out the crown slightly and then loctite it into place to acheive the effect you're describing with the tightly closing lever...

Excellent news, Finepics. You might want to request correspondence via paypal only. Then you'll have everything consolidated in one place, and shipping addresses as well.

I'm expecting the 7753 187 to be spectacular (and spendy).... Dunno if it'll be ready for XMas or not though.

196 fo shizzle here too!

I made this decision about 6 years ago and went with the Seadweller.

I have a few extra 2.5X sapphire cyclops that are sized the same as the gen, and can spare one. The MBW magnifier is too strong.

A1 - Noob dial is much better. The markers are better, the marker borders are slimmer and closer to gen, and the dial print/font is more accurate. When modding your MBW, steal the Noob's dial and transplant it. You will have to glue it to the spacer ring, but it will fit just fine. A2 - No, the MBW cyclops *size* is correct, but its magnification is a bit too strong. The Noobmariner's cylops is too big compared to the gen. The best of both worlds is a cyclops sized like the MBW with the magnification strength of the Noob. These can be found for about $5. A3 - Yes! Lastly, a general comment on your rehaut comparison.... Both the MBW and the Noob have shallower rehaut compared to the gen. The MBW is very close, but still a bit shallow. I did a side by side by side comparison last week.

It came out great!!! The Zigmeister does it again!