HauteHippie

Really nice. Congrats!

Yea, I couldn't disagree more with that assertion. Why does China need exportable brand names when they produce nearly everything used in virtually every recognizable foreign brand (certain luxury items excluded of course) anyhow? The economics are simple. China is the world's single leading exporter; a title that once belonged to the USA. And the plethora of recognizable USA brand names haven't done much to help abate our decline. If only the USA's economic resurgence could be as "weak" as China's development...

Heh. I don't know... Funny though!

It has among the least business-friendly climates in the country.

Well it's an integral part of the economy now... Whereas 30 years ago, imported products were synonymous with high quality and high prices, the business environment has changed so dramatically here at home since then that imported products are now synonymous with high quality (for the most part) and low prices while the cost of producing mostly anything domestically that competes in quality is sky high. And, hey, it's hard to complain about the price to quality ratio of our reps... Just imagine the price tag of these same reps if produced in, say, New Jersey.

Good project, stilty... And if we could somehow manufacture ETA DWs with proper flat 3 font to go along with these, you'd need to open up shop for mass production!

You're sure you crushed it? Bummer. But it happens.

Good question, and I'm interested in the answer. I should really hope the answer is "no".

I'm in the clean crystal, worn insert camp too... If I had a genuine version, I'd replace the crystal and keep the vintage insert and a lot of people on VRF do just that, not to mention paying biiiig bucks for naturally aged replacement inserts.

Welcome home... you and your avatars were missed.

Breaking the trend here with one of my favorite - and among the most accurate - frankens to look at. This piece doesn't make an appearance outside of the watch box terribly often, but today is a light, comfy, and somewhat dressy day...

JB Weld There was a similar issue with early IWC Ingenieur bracelets... A good metal epoxy like JB Weld, a tooth pick, and a little precision brought many back to life!

I've wondered what you get for the money in going with the JAW or NDT case vs the DW case... What sayeth the experts?

I think asking Domi to do the paint job first is the best thing to do. If that doesn't turn out well, you can get a set of hands from DSN as a fall back.

The paint shouldn't be a problem. Anyone who can do good lume jobs could competently paint the hands. But DSN does have 2893 hands. He sells 2893 watches.

I see it now... Thanks for adding the red circle. I'd say paint it matte black. It appears to be a small, somewhat hidden area of the bottom hand that isn't very visible anyhow. Alternatively, I would suspect DSN has replacement hands for sale.

I'm apparently not seeing what the problem is... Call me crazy.

Move up to the 328 or 358. fredmiranda.com has a great Buy&Sell section to the forum. Lots of equipment moves through it. These Sekonics go for under $200 all the time.

There is a part number guide for all things Planet Ocean posted here on RWG... Look through the archives and you should be able to find it.

I agree feed and speed - making sure you can clear enough material - is paramount. But I've never bought any fancy coated bits, just a good quality set with very minimal runout, and I mostly drill in to wood... So, sharpness hasn't been an issue for me. Good to know the Drill Doctor works, though. I've thought about getting one when things start to go dull, but wasn't sure.

Ah Ok.... your post threw me. No worries... If swdivad makes you a nice deal, that will be a good meter.

The color tint might be the same but the gen IWC is much less reflective... I honestly thought this was rep AR. Colorless isn't possible. That'd mean absolute zero reflections. In any event, if you like it, that's all that matters.

Sekonic 308. But I'm not sure you need one for the purpose your describe... In Av mode, you set the aperture and the camera will select the appropriate shutter speed to expose the image properly. In general, set the ISO as low as possible in order to achieve your desired aperture and/or shutter speed. A little reading will help you a lot. You need to learn about depth of field, and shutter speed for freezing motion, minimum shutter speed for a particular focal length, etc.

Bike Mike, do you not feel the cobalt bits retain sharpness longer than HSS??