llsteve80

Ok so I'll be busting out my new suit for New years, its a CK black pinstripe, 3 button single breasted with flat front pants. The shirt and tie combos are endless, for shirts I have dark blue, baby blue, black, light blue with dark blue stripes, black/plum/dark purple stripes, white, charcaol, blue with white collar & french cuffs, few more shades of blue. I'd like to buy a new tie anyway, but i have tons with blue/black, blue/dark blue, white/black houndstooth etc. I'd throw some pics in but I'm really lazy right now. Also, what watch? my fave black/ss sub, or maybe a two tone/blue sub, 2-tone DJ with jubilee, or 2-tone GMT? I'll probably have a 6263 rep by then too, going for black with white subdials.

Never seen them in china town, but I did used to get them at swap meets back in the day. there were tons and I was able to talk them down to 30 bucks or so everytime. That was way back in like 98 though.

Sweet. Low miles? How many? I see professionally restored mustangs go for some crazy cash these days. good luck with the project and NEVER give up. Do you have any orig. documentation left on it BTW? I think for that year the build sheet was above the gas tank? If you want I can ask my buddy who sells classic cars where do get paperwork and stuff.

I don't know what a fs-4611a looks like, but that does look like a 2451 like potr said. Weird that there would be no eta stamp though. I see the watch is all iced out too. Cool. Don't drop it in the snowblower! I did something like that last year.

I just want a beater, but I don't want to send my $$ off and not get anything. I guess the flea market's always on option, thats the canal st equiv. of CHI, but theres that bearded lady........ I'd save like 20 bucks, but i'd have to go there and that place gives me the willies. None of the dealers seem to carry the low-end watches anymore, with the stuff they have now it's like "uh-oh, a scratch on the band, time to re-brush the whole thing" I understand that the site has fantasy and low end stuff, I was just wondering if they were one of the guys that don't send squat. Then again, my beater doesn't need to be a rep.

Curiously, I want to buy there out of curiosity. after I blow it up, at least I'll have a band....

This site has a familiar format with the old "lets see what we have here". Must be a default thing. Anyway, These definately aren't eta watches, but at least there not pulling the old Swiss grade 1A or whatever BS. $50 isn't too bad of a gamble, so maybe I'll be the sacrificial guinea pig if nobody else heard of this place or bought there yet. I linked to this site from a seller on Ioffer, the seller has 72 positive ratings and no negs so it looks ok on the surface. Guess we'll see. ufantazone.com

People actually bid on this thing too. This just further strengthens my idea that most scammers have below avg intellegence. Why show pics of the movement when it looks like no other movement on the bay? Item 220171728550

that is one ugly watch. tow tone dial/hands set mixed with SS bezel and band. Then I think the band says 18k on it too. He made a crappy franken out of rep parts.

Ok, I know just waiting would do the trick, but what is the proper way to unwind the movement before taking it apart? The movement in question is the one in the stienhausen that I recently purchased and posted about. 35J date 21600 with a day, month, and 24hr register. the rotor was broken off already when I bought it, no biggie ( except for the stuck screw) but now it's stopping and starting while fully wound. I believe the stop lever might have something to do with it, mainly because when I pull the crown out, I have to have it perfect for it to hack, when pulled a little farther, it starts again, so something is up there for sure. I shouldnt have to hold it in place to get it to stop. That has to be looked into for sure, but I also suspect there to be something catching in there, metal burr, who knows. I wan to take it apart, but I obviously don't want to remove certain parts while the spring is under tension, and I may want to wind it up and test it, and if it is still messed up, I'll have to take it apart again, but since it's stopping on its own, I can't trust that its unwound just because the movement isn't running. I see a lever that keeps the gear from spinning backwards, but I don't want to move it and unwind it that way unless that is the correct way to do it.

Maybe I should start stockpiling then..... One thing that would be nice to know would be to have prior knowledge of services they will be stopping soon. Out of curiosity, what do you guys think will be hard to get in 5 years? 10? There has to be a point for certain watches where the parts become too expensive for anyone to fix. I don't care how much parts are for the daytonas, for example, there will always be a market for that, but I can see people just parting out the old mid-size datejusts and manual winds for cheap until there are so few left that they increase in value again. Or not...

what a mystery indeed. You would think there had to be some watch that it was made for besides reps. Maybe one of those junk, overpriced watches you see on ebay with a supposed MSRP of 1,000's? Whatever it was it must have been short lived.

I've seen some members posting about recent unsatisfactory transactions that would have been red flagged by more veteran buyers. I hope to share some knowledge to try to nip the next on in the bud. Ebay can be a great source for genuine watches and parts , as long as you realize the deal of a lifetime probably isn't going to be made on the internet. Here are some of the guidelines I've made for myself, and so far I haven't been burned. The most important thing to me is research. Knowing exactly what I'm looking for is more important than getting it today. Search through the completed listings, read the descriptions and try to understand why 2 similar things have sold for a significant difference. That will help you gauge the value of whatever it is you are looking to bid on currently. The ebay market value is pretty consistent and once you understand it you'll be able to bid with confidence. Obviously, if something sounds too good to be true, it isn't true. If there are only 5 hours left on a submariner, for instance, and there are no bids yet, there is a good reason. The people who know watches haven't bid on it, and I wouldn't either. Take a step back and look at the big picture instead of the low price, and you will most likely begin to see the reason nobody else is interested. People can take any picture they want and put it on the auction ad. If all of the pictures are different sizes and aspect ratio, it seems likely that they have been pilfered from other peoples listings. Most people leave their camera on the same setting while taking all of the pictures, so they should all be similar. There are some keywords and phrases that make a listing scream "fraud". Among them are: "Re-listed due to non paying bidder" "I don't know anything about watches" "This was my uncles/dads/brothers etc." "replacement" "custom made" ANY kind of disclaimer as to authenticity. For some reason, and I'm not sure why, many scammers choose user names with a feminine air to them. Maybe it has something to do with appearing more innocent, I don't know, but I have noticed that to be a trend. It could be the same guy for all I know. There should be some kind of statement or guarantee of authenticity somewhere in the listing. Then there are other things to look at as well, for instance, if there are tons of pictures spiced up with boxes, booklets, paperwork etc, or pictures of every engraving/symbol on the watch, but no movement picture, it seems like they are trying to distract from other telltale signs of a counterfeit. Most serious sellers will have at least somewhat clear photos. Blurry or too far away is a big no-no for me. Watch out with stock photos mixed in with the rest of them too. Obviously be aware of low or 0 feedback. Everyone has to start somewhere, but I would rather let someone else with more money take the chance. Feedback can be misleading. If someone is selling aftermarket parts, and coming clean in emails made prior to bids, then the buyers understand what they are getting and leave a positive when they receive the item. Negative breeds negative, so some buyers would rather be placated with a partial refund than take the chance on getting a negative theirself, so good feedback does not always indicate a trustworthy or genuine seller. Research the seller, look at their feedback, including as a buyer and feedback left for others. You just may find that they are buying aftermarket parts and listing them as genuine as a seller. Of course, they can buy on a separate account, but surprisingly not everyone thinks of this. Ask questions. Make sure things match up, like the case model and movement number. Ask if they guarantee the item as authentic with a refund option if it isn't. No garuntee, no deal. Make sure they accept paypal, and see what the buyer protection is for that item. That doesn't say anything about the item in question, but being protected up to $2,000 provides some security on your behalf. Never send a money order, check or wire transfer unless you completely trust the seller, personally I would never do it just to be safe. Its nice to have a credit card attached to your paypal account too, just in case. As a last resort, if something iffy happens, you can stop the payment on the CC, which automatically opens a dispute. You will also have that amount of money frozen on your paypal account, but it is faster than trying to get paypal to start it. I think you have to wait a certain period of time. If something tells you in your gut that you may end up getting burned, don't bid. Feel free to ask members here what they think. We're here to help, not to try to outbid you if you show us something that may go for a low price. Trust me, if we're interested, there is a good chance we saw it already anyway. Thats all I can think of for now, but I think its a good starting point. Trust your gut and ask questions. Take a step back and know what your bidding on, and don't let the now mentality cloud your judgment.

Sounds like a good guy to know.

I saw this guy at the Chicago Improv last month, he was hilarious with all his sound effects and voices. Pablo Francisco does "Preview man" aka "tortilla boy":

Searching like crazy here, and I can't find any kind of definitive answer as to what the DW mystery movement was/is. Is it a copy V23 with frozen 6:00 subdial? Its good to know for future options, as I may be able to get my hands on one with said movement for what I think is an awesome price. The movement isn't what has stopped/slowed me down on pulling the trigger, its the timing. Only reason I want to know about the movement is because I like to know what I have.

Depends how you look at it--- I'm talking about starting with on of his cases, so then I would have a unique hand built WATCH that I put together myself, one that I would know in and out, and would just happen to look like one of the most sought after daytonas ever made. For some people, the satisfaction lies in the fabrication, whether it's building or modding makes no difference, its the personal touch and details that make it yours. The rocks you speak of may account for the hardness of my head.........

That explains so much, thank you.........

Thanks everyone, thats some good info. To be more clear, I'm not looking to buy, but looking to sell. Just trying to see if it would even be worth it. Nothing is more annoying to me than when something sells for the opening bid of say, 9.99. Then I have to print a label and invoice, pack it and post it. After all of that, it's not even worth while. I really thought the triplock would be the highest one. Stilty- Thats interesting how much they mark them up, but don't the service agents have to account for all the parts they buy now? I'm under the impression that all replaced parts have to be sent back to RUSA since rolex is tired of people selling stuff on the internet.

what are some fair ballpark prices for gen used crowns? Any help would be appreciated. These are the ones in question: 6mm gold 6mm SS 7mm triplock+ tube 5 (5.3?)mm SS

I usually just call it "shipping" because it is an all encompassing term, but namely I have to inventory everything that is supposed to go on the trucks to make sure its all there, enter and print invoices, and then check the trucks to make sure they are loaded properly, that is regards to order of delivery and weight distribution. Thats the description at least. Here's the rest I end up doing. When one driver calls in sick at 1am for a 2am run, I get to call a different driver and wake up his entire house to ask if he wants the run for that day. If a vehicle breaks down on the road, I use the GPS, internet, international dealers mechanics guide, and yellow pages to find a towing company, mechanic and sometimes parts store or rental vehicle if necessary. If anything goes wrong, anywhere, I get blamed because I should have caught it. 9 out of 10 times it is later discovered that the driver was just covering their own ass. Hmm reading that, it sounds like I'm bitter, but I was trying to make light of it. I did this job from '97-02, then again from mid 05-9/07. In between, I was in sales. I will gladly go back any time to help, my father is the GM and his best friend, who I believe is also my sisters godfather, owns the place. We sell tropical and saltwater fish to pet stores throughout the midwest as well as small animals such as ferretts, hamsters, etc and reptiles. I actually was going to dunk my sub in the boss's reef tank for the TWP photo contest but he never got it up and running before the deadline. That would have rocked.

I suppose you people think this is funny.......well it is BTW, that mayor daley one is my fave, never gets old. Not exactly politically centered, but still funny, here are some real life court room quotes: Doctor, did you say he was shot in the woods? No, I said he was shot in the lumbar region. Doctor, how many autopsies have you peformed on dead people? All my autopsies have been performed on dead people. What happened then? He told me, he says, "I have to kill you because you can identify me." Did he kill you? No. When he went, had you gone and had she, if she wanted to and were able, for the time being excluding all the restraints on her not to go, gone also, would he have brought you, meaning you and she, with him to the station? MR. BROOKS: Objection. That question should be taken out and shot. **** My aunt read some of these to me from an article called "disorder in the court" at thanksgiving 1992. It has continued to grow on the web and can be found with the google

Don't worry about it, the Langes are very hard to replicate since they have an in house movement. Most of the reps are pretty much fantasy with those. That broken one, for instance, is almost a lange 1, something i've been looking for for a while now, but they discontinued them.

I've seen you around, welcome. What was the broken watch?

OOOPS!