Toadtorrent

Welcome aboard. Good luck on getting your money back. You can send PMs through the forum...but each member handles their PMs differently, and some turn off the ability to receive them. You could try posting your question in the sales thread.

As far as beautiful music goes...Christmas time traditional hymns are hard to beat...add in a beautifully decorated cathedral...amazing experiences. Nice sig pics BTW.

Great story...I'll have to look up the pics now when I get home. My proxy blocks things at the office...and your pics seem to be one of them.

Those are beautiful shots. Congrats and keep them coming!!

I'm not a big fan of the black dial on this one...but I like the white dialed version. I find for the most part, that moonphase complications look best with a white dial to make the moonpase disc stand out more. As well, I consider the moonphase a "classy" complication and black dials too sporty for the overall effect.

That is beautiful!! Congrats on that for sure.

Fantastic job on the DW!

Likewise...this forum is loaded with info. As a revealing of bias on my suggestion...I'm somewhat interested in this watch after Lani's review...but given the size being like the Skyland but with a bracelet...I'm a little hesitant so I don't see this watch as a long term "regular rotation" piece...but more like a fun, occasional use beater. In that case...I would not bother spending the money on the Swiss...and would just go Asian...knowing that I can do a movement replacement myself for as little as $12 or as much as $20 CDN for a DG4813. For my SSD, I went Swiss...as that is a watch I think is closer to the size I want in a black dialed diver. Good luck either way on the decision...and a Merry Xmas to all!

I'm assuming you're taking the datewheel. It definitely sounds like it's been dislodged, and this should be fixable by any watch repair person. If it arrived loose, it might have been jostled in the post to you. I would suggest talking it over with your seller, and finding a someone that can do the repair, and seeing about doing a split on the repair somehow. The fact of the matter is, it will cost money to issue a refund by Paypal or whatever because of service charges, and time...and you also have return postage costs and risk as well...so both of you lose if you get a refund for something that SHOULD be a fairly inexpensive repair. If you're in Toronto, I can refer you to a couple places that can do a repair like that and should not cost more than $50 (which is on the high end I think)...others can correct me on this one. It could be the datewheel has slipped, or the date overlay has become detached.

I should have edited my post...I meant I just saw Nanuq in the pic below...not the dog...unless that's his dog's reflection in the glistening sheen of Nanuq's teeth. What big sharp teeth you have Grandpa Nanuq.

That is beautiful...I wish I could wear this thing...but at 47mm...it's a bit big for me.

I don't believe it is a straight swap for the following reasons: Dial feet are different for the 2 movements...so you will have to cut and "glue" or tape the dial to the new movement Hands will not fit...you will have to source new hands Datewheel overlays are specific to the movement and I don't believe the DG2813 overlay works with an ETA Even if the date overlay worked...different dial spacer might be needed My recommendation if you want to go this route (which is what I'm thinking of)...buy the Asian movement...keep the Asian movement. When it dies...swap in either a DG4813 (~$20CDN) or DG2813 ($12CDN) as a replacement. It will take a lot of Asian movement swaps before you approach the cost of the gen Swiss ETA replacement. As FxrAndy stated above as well...you could buy the Asian ETA and either have that one maintained and serviced and see if the ETA parts as required fit in it if needed...and if they don't, swap your gen Swiss ETA in then...but not worry about it if you don't have to...or do as I recommended above to save money...and just replace the cheap Asian movements as needed. Obviously the Asian movements will be noisier rotor side than the Swiss, and the time setting/winding will feel cheaper. The usual approach is, if you want to get a Swiss engined non-Chrono...buy it outright.

Yup...whatever your buddy says is working for you obviously with the pics you're taking. It's always a pleasure to look at them. I've used the Sigma and Tamron f2.8 macros as well as the Nikon and they're all excellent quality in the pro range lenses. These days, I'm just slapping together quickie pics using a G9 with makeshift lighting as I don't have access to proper lights and this macro stuff is quite new to me. You know how it is...having to shoot hundreds of frames using various combinations to work your way through the learning curve. Again...great job and great insights to go with the pics.

Congrats on both the purchase and the great pics!

Welcome aboard. The members here are some of the most helpful and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts anywhere. Read my Noob Guide and you'll hit the ground running.

The macro lens by Nikon is great for the FX format (the older lenses). They don't have a decent DX lens for macro. It's one of the big reasons I'm waiting for the FX format to drop in price. You could use the timer function or a remote trigger to make up for the lighter tripod. I don't use my pro gear anymore as I haven't shot pro stuff for a few years (used to do sports photography)...and it's all film based.

Thanks for putting this together Lani. I actually like the colour schematic of this one, but am not so sure I would need to add one to the stables. I always enjoy your macro work R...great stuff as always. That lens hides nothing.

To be Totally Wise...you need to read my Noob Guide linked in my signature. This type of question is very common on this forum from people looking for the lowest priced watch they can find...but bear in mind, the level of quality in reps varies greatly. As Bill said above...you aren't going to get high accuracy in a chrono based watch for $100...given that an auto movement costs $120+ without the watch. There is likely nothing worth buying that can't be bought from collectors that members on this board have used many times with generally positive experiences. You can experiment with the link you listed and tell us your experiences...maybe they'll be good...maybe they'll be bad. Hey...it's your money and your time...do with it what you want. Read the Noob Guide...you'll hit the ground running quickly.

It all depends on the cut of the shirt collar...namely the spread between the points. Wider collars generally require a wider knot, so a Windsor or double knot or whatever are often more appropriate. Which shirt to wear depends on the suit and your build. Don Cheery a famous Hockey Commentator in Canada wore ridiculously high collars that had very little spread...so he had to use a narrow knot. A lot of modern British style dress shirts use a wider spread on a shorter collar...

Where's the dog Rob?

No way you can be reviewed out...the momentum is only building. I'm wondering if they did more to fix the internal bezel alignment as well, as the pics I've been seeing from the different collectors have the 12-o-clock point lining up nicely. It could be they're doing the half-click shift...but I wonder if they fixed this!

...some of us are even annoying not-so-old-and-not-so-new-timers... Read my Noob Guide linked in my signature to start...and that should help you get up and running quickly. Welcome aboard...there's some fun stuff here.

Glad you're finding material that's useful. I've been helped so much in the past by other members here...and am continually inspired by the material that others are putting up here that I feel I should do my part to make this community as exciting and interesting as can be. If you have any questions...let me know...I'll see what I can do. Welcome aboard.

You made me look there brutha...that is one fine looking piece. Make sure you let me know about that fire sale...I know you have pieces in there I want to score!

Awesome stuff...I'm definitely looking forward to this one.