Toadtorrent

I've reposted his pics, and edited the original submission here:

PART 2 Hmm, I kind of jumped a little fast there and didn

Ok...I have little to nothing to do with the content of this tutorial, other than finding it useful, and salvaging the files packaged by SSSurfer, resizing them, editing them and reassembling the package here. This has been a much-in-demand tutorial that when AJS left RWG, died with him with no images, and really...marginal utility. The original posting had 203 images or so that amounted to a 40Mb post to download that had to be spread across three posts in order to get all the images in. To make the post more readable, I have done the following: reduced the quality of the images to reduce image download size by 75% removed the similar pictures that I felt didn't really serve much use in order to have the tutorial contained in 2 posts, rather than 3 added in user edits where applicable Hopefully people find it useful...and I thank AJS for putting this together initially. A lot of time and effort went into photographing all the steps, and linking them to the tutorial. I'm sorry if I offended him by removing some of his wine shots, and other misc. picx. Remember...if you find this type of information useful, consider upgrading your membership to a paid subscription, to ensure the life of the board and it's content is here for you in the future. AJOESMITH'S MOTHER OF ALL TUTORIALS - SWAPPING A DG2813 WITH A HIGH BEAT DG4813 Ok finally all done. This is a tutorial of how to install a DG4813 into a noob sub! This is just my method and i do what works for me. This may or may not be the correct way of doing this but im no expert. I'd like to thank the forums mainly RWG and Rgeek as they have provided me with the knowledge to do this. So enjoy! What youll need for the job, notice the nice glass of Red! Of course the watch it self, a Noob Sub, the movement for the swap, a new DG4813 fastbeat movement. Some post it notes, tweezers etc and some lint free paper? You will also need a Rolex caseback tool. EDIT: There is an expensive Bergeon set with a complete set of Rolex dies, but for the most part, the only die you will need is the large 29.5mm one which will fit Subs, Daytonas, Seadwellers, etc. Obviously it won't fit the ladies DJs. If you need to work on the smaller Rollies, you might consider additional chucks or the larger set. The Red wine The Watch - a Noob Factory Sub First step, get the bracelet off, so that we can get access to the case back. Remove the plastic if present (i.e. a new watch). Open the buckle and the divers extension. Here is the bracelet with the spring bar removed. The springbar needs to be pressed and released to release the divers extension. Watch sitting flat and easier to access the caseback in front of the bergeon Rolex case back opening tools. EDIT: You can use generic arms for the tool, but I recommend using the genuine Bergeon 29.5mm chuck as the teeth will not wreck your caseback The red wine, time for a sip Nice The bergeon openers, going to use the biggest one on the far right (29.5mm) Here it is, with the arms attached, watch face down in hand, and the case back opener on top. Apply pressure and turn. Off the back comes where you can remove the rubber seal with tweezers. At thie point, turn the watch over and unscrew the crown and pull out to the time setting position and set the time to 12 oclock, this will help in the hand removal Time for another mouthful of wine...and another. Next to remove the movement, you'll need to unscrew the movement holder screws - 1 here and 1 here With the 2 screws Unscrewed, remove the 2 metal tabs Next to release the stem, here is the stem release button in close up While pressing it GENTLY, use the other hand to pull the stem out by the pulling on the crown, when the stem releases, stop pushing on the stem release button. EDIT: Some including The Zigmeister say to always remove the stem in the winding position, to reduce the chances of throwing the keyless works out of position when putting the stem back in Stem out Turn the watch on its side then quickly and smoothly turn the watch dial side up n a sheet of paper or something clean (e.g. a casing pad) Sometimes the movement doesnt 'drop' and needs a light 'tap'. A few taps on the crystal and it should come out. Lift the watch case away and set it t the side leaving the movement, dial and hands, which you'll need from now on EDIT: Leave the case facing down to avoid getting dust settling on the inside of the case and on the inside of the crystal Lift the movement up and there is the movement holder under it, again place it to the side Some more wine...Another sip! EDIT: SD4K mentioned that to remove the hands, If you adjust the hands to 12h (date-switch-position) before you take em off,you will have less problems with setting the hands in the right position when you put them back on. To remove the hands youll need some post it notes or a Bergeon dial protector, and a hand removal tool. Peel off a post-it, fold it in half and cut to shorten the length, and then cut it in 2 sticky pieces lengthwise. Place the post-its at 3 oclock and 9 oclock position and under the hour hand. Use the hand removal tool to remove the hands, its very difficult to photograph as I only have 2 hands, 1 for the camera and 1 for the tool, so this pic is really just to show you the position, don

Depending on the watch...there have been nickel plated 2813's to get them silver...same movement though...sometimes with the red gear for Rolex.

Beautiful pics. That AR is amazing.

Yes...the overlay makes the assembly thicker which is why you need to use the movement-dial spacer ring that came with the watch and not the one with the movement otherwise you'll be getting things stuck.

That AS Tag with the Jakub/Chief treatment looks smokin'!! I don't know anything about Tag casebacks...haven't done my research on them yet. As to the second hand...that's exactly what I do...get down low with a lump of Rodico and my loupe on, and try to lift that hand and get the pin in the hole. It's tricky and makes you realize how gentle you have to be with that second hand...it's so easy to bend as it's so thin!! Once it's lined up, press down with the hand tool bit.

They are sold by any of the collectors...pick one...and they can get what you need. You have to decide on the vendor yourself...as each has their issues, pros and cons...and some of these play more importance whether or not you live in Europe. You have to do your own research. Start by seeing who the collectors are by going to the main page and looking at the collectors section. View their reviews by going go the review of collectors section. You will notice that all the collectors on this board have an overall good reputation...but they each have their nuances of dealing with them. Pick one and shop. Good luck.

You definitely understand the basics of making sure the glare is at a minimum which is the key. You have nice clear pictures...and the autolevels works a fair bit. You could also try autocontrast...and play with sharpening the image...overall...not bad at all!!

Likely a DG2813...the DG4813 will fit as well...and is the high beat movement not generally used in reps except by special request upgrade with Eurotimez.

ADs may well charge more for servicing.

No sweat. Keep us posted on the project to confirm your findings and put anyone else in the situation at ease over the current batch of low-beats and hand sizes. That will be interesting to note.

Of interest (I posted this in another thread as well): hand sizes for ETA to Swiss From The Zigmeister: Genuine ETA 7750 all variants (all...should apply to the 21k slow beat A7750 as well) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.25mm Subdials 0.17mm New Asian 7750 (28,800 BPH) Normal ones - NOT the Daytona model (don't have one to measure) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.20mm Subdial 0.20mm The Zigmeister's Explanation of Gluing Hands

Well done. I've played around with this with success too, and it's very rewarding. I've screwed up movements swapping datewheels mind you...and now that I have AJS's guide with pics...I'm going to dive back into seeing if I can put all the pieces back together properly. I haven't tried the crystal thing though. It looks like you need a Senna Link Chrono like LordRasta...the dial and green would go well with the ink.

Ditto. I had a bug bite on the left when I used to wear it on the left, and the bracelet kept irritating the bite so I switched to the right...never went back.

Suddenly it appears you're missing half the pics from the report. Hah...thanks it was fun.

Sell the clock in the van...the Skyland will fit nicely...and get free soup down at the Scott!! Glad to hear you got the piece...I can't get the thing off my wrist...love it!

You won't be getting Swiss for that price...guaranteed...especially with the non-PVD treatment...which is supposed to be much harder than PVDD. See my post above. The Swiss movement along costs $400-500...plus swap labour if you were to get one on your own.

Exactly. You won't get a Swiss 7750 watch for under $700...so if you're hoping for this Blacksteel with a Valjoux7750...try iOffer and trust their "real swiss movement" descriptions. There aren't many real Swiss 7750 reps out there for under $700.

It's a Chinese thing...#8 is a lucky number...so they are essentially pre-allocated to those "inside" the industry...either to Josh himself and the gang, and the factory folks. #4 is the bad number...

RELAX...you've only waited a day since my last reply. I used Search and found more posts you probably want: hand sizes for ETA to Swiss From The Zigmeister: Genuine ETA 7750 all variants (all) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.25mm Subdials 0.17mm New Asian 7750 (28,800 BPH) Normal ones - NOT the Daytona model (don't have one to measure) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.20mm Subdial 0.20mm The Zigmeister's Explanation of Gluing Hands These 2 posts were found using the Search feature in <2 minutes.

Yes you are...shame shame shame!! How dare you scratch your crystal and hide the beautiful dials of your watches.

...it also depends on which lower end reps and higher priced ones you are talking about. High priced ones from scam sites are not worth the prices...cheap reps from Canal St. or Chinatowns the world over aren't worth the $50 they charge generally. So...you get what you pay for sure...but generally only if you buy from the collectors recommended here. I've seen $100 quartz Cousteau Divers on iOffer that say "similar case to and dial and construction as the more expensive automatic". Similar? Sure...the dial was round and had orange in it. Is that close enough for you to save $200? Perhaps...for me...no way. The caseback was off, rehaut wrong size, date font bad, etc, etc.

You can't protect yourself...that's the beauty of the rep game. But if you look at the responses here on shipping back to China, you will find VERY few (if any for that matter) have encountered issues. Main points: Shipping should be about $15-20...anymore than that and you shipping the wrong way or have the wrong sized package Check your postal service's minimum size restrictions...too small a package (i.e. Josh small boxes) can get charged an undersized premium Don't ship by courier...too expensive...and risks closer inspection and possible seizure declare as whatever you want...just not a Rolex or whatever or you'll lose it for sure either through seizure or theft

Very nice...thanks!