Toadtorrent

Look in the tech section for movement reviews by The Zigmeister on this movement. It's essentially 13 gears to make the move to secs-at-6 and they aren't jewelled, so it's metal on metal. The extra, higher friction, drive train load wears things down faster.

I got that too. I'll see if I warm up to it. It's nice...but not sure if it seems too "fad-ish" to me.

Welcome from TO. Where about's in Canada are you? You just found the best watch forum around...gen or rep. And, you got that right that once you get one, you have to have more. Read the reviews, look at the photos...you are going to have fun. Read the Noob Guide linked in my sig to get you up and running, and feel free to PM me with any questions...always willing to help out another 'Nuck. As to the brands you're interested in, don't forget the Richard Mille's (technically not Mosport themed...but design is certainly on those lines), and there is a great Tag Ayrton Senna (look for the post from LordRasta) LE as well...some great Omega Speedies...it doesn't end. You'll find a bunch of CDN's here...and of course, we're all great.

Cool. Great job.

I'm a little lost what you need. There is a stem (long thin stick) which is screwed onto the crown. The crown slides through a tube (like a small collet) that is pressed/screwed/glued into the case. Do you have all 3 parts? You need the stem to operate the mechanics of the movement (time and date setting, winding, etc). The crown is merely the handle to the stem and seals the insides from the outside. The tube is part of the system seal and allows securing of the crown to the case. If you were able to push the crown back on, did it snap off the stem, or merely unscrew from the stem? If the latter, you can just screw it back in holding the stem with a pair of small pliers, and maybe putting Loctite on the threads to old it onto the stem...then just re-install the stem to the movement and you're back in business. If the stem broke off, you need a new stem but may be able to salvage the crown by dissolving the stem bit in allum if you can't pinch it off (see Francisco's tutorial on this in his section on the forum). You replace the crown/tube generally because the threads have stripped and the crown can't be screwed in anymore, you don't like the rep crown, or you lost the crown. If you're in Canada, get the parts from H.W. Perrin.

Hmmmm...can't imagine what you're talking about..hmmmm... Look at the link in my sig for the guides (sorry for the obscure title) it's the Mother of all Guides).

I was going to snipe it...but didn't get around to it...got stuck at a meeting. Crap.

At a HIGH level they work the same in terms of ALL mechanical movements at some level working the same, but the design on the movements is different. An Asian clone of an ETA 2824/2836 is a copy though...but with tolerances and machining being slightly different, OEM parts from ETA may or may not work when replacing them. They look the same and operate the same though...and can be difficult to tell apart without knowing what to look for (different hole drilling on one of the wheels). When we say "Swiss" we generally mean "ETA" movements as that is what is used 99% of the time (the only exception for the most part being Selita movements and the occasional Angelus or other rare Franken project movement). So, there is either Swiss aka ETA and the copies of these, OR generic Asian movements.

Definitely in at $60.

Flip Flops ...and before anybody changes the topic...I'm associating my own: THONG

I find the design of the whole series kind of hokey. Not my cup of tea.

warranty

WRONG. The SMP Chrono (new and old version) have the CORRECT HEV position. The non-chrono SMP reps (unless you get the older rarer ones not sold anymore) have the HEV INCORRECTLY @ 10-o-clock where it should be slightly higher. As DudeM says, on the currently available chrono, the strikethrough being low on the OMEGA is to me, a bigger flaw. I think the rep also has the Happy Feet Ohm as well...but that's another story. If you're worried about accuracy...you'll have a harder time with the Bond SMPs. I have an El Cheap Asian 21j broad stick SMP with the incorrect HEV...it bothers me none. It's a nice watch...and at $100 new, a great deal. You're going all over the place on your decision there dude. Pick the design you want, and just buy something. If you go Asian, it's $100...not the end of the world. The PO Chrono has 2 versions, the newer narrow spacing subdials and the older wide spacing. That's a whole different discussion and worthy of you doing some legwork on the reviews of the movement and the watch (look for Francisco movement reviews, and Lanikai's photo threads). Good luck. Considering all the info and advice you're getting with all this...consider upgrading your membership to support the forum that's helping you out!!

Don't forget the ETA datewheel if you want to go down that path...

Lickin'

There some good Asian movements out there...but the Asian PR movements like on the UN MMD, IWC 7 days and what not are pretty low cost models...costing <$15-20 to replace, so they can't be compared with in quality to a gen Swiss with the Soprod module. The Asian repair approach is rip and replace, whereas the ETA would be a service and rebuild. If you can source the PR movements, they can be the best value as it only costs a few bucks to replace the movement when it fails...rather then $100's of dollars to maintain an ETA. It depends on the quality and reliability you need.

Playing Devil's Advocate here to make sure this works for folks, I'm also in on the Seamaster 300M Chrono over at RWI. They are doing 50 tix at $80, and the sales are slow, sitting at about 16 tix sold of 50. Other gen raffles over at RG have been priced at $150 at 40-50 tix for such things as a Gentley GMT or UN MMD and those have sold out. What I'm saying is I'm not sure if the Speedy combination can drive $80/tic...maybe it can...but I think $40-60 would get interest.

If you're into adventure and outdoor stuff...there is some OUTSTANDING rock climbing and caving in KY. World class stuff...some of the best caving (spelunking) in the world down there. Turkey hunting is big to...there's also some good hangliding and paragliding. Enjoy it. I've always enjoyed my trips down there...you just have to accept the Good 'ol Boy culture and take advantage of the geography.

There are some Panerai options. I'm not sre if these are custom are not...but there are black dial and PVD case options for those. I'm not sure if you're talking COMPLETELY black as these have white or yellow filled lume. There are also the Rolex Pro-Hunter series which are mostly black but the lume application is varied in calour (orange/green for the Milgauss, blue/white for the DSSD, etc).

Indeed. Big-up on the big day Mike. Thanks for being such a great contribution to the forum as well!!

I'm in at $60...out at $120.

Depending on which generation of this version of the gen you got (yup...just like Rolex, there are variances in the gen depending on which issue you got)...some were more orange than red. More recent ones are redder than older ones. If you get Zig to mod it, he can paint the chrono hands to match the chapter ring markers...looks a heckuva lot better. It makes them redder...but still a little orange...not like a cherry red.

Donate the money now in terms of upgrading your membership, and you can enter the Raffle!!

Massage

Pyre (burning)