Brightight

Absolute minimum you need a decent set of Jewellers Screwdrivers. It's not worth scrimping on these in my opinion, get the best you can afford. Hand remover and hand setting tool, definitely a pair of decent tweezers (practice with them, it's worth it) and a loupe or two. It's also worth getting some boxes to hold the parts you remove. And a movement holder is extremely useful. Some non powdered rubber gloves or finger cots to avoid marking anything, and some Rodico cleaning putty. Oh and you will need a rubber ball case back remover. Finally you may want to get a small bracelet pin remover though to be honest I've used mine twice in two years. Where to get them depends on where you are. Most are available from ebay, though I would buy the screwdrivers from a watch tools and parts supplier.

I just received a package from the US, declared value (couple of gen Rolex parts) was $185, I was charged £22, VAT + Royal Mail handling charges. When I went to pay I asked the guy if it was because of the value, he said no it's random, they literally select parcels as they pass on a conveyor belt and check if they are chargeable. If so you get a bill. The last parcel I received from the same place which actually had a higher value (and being a commercial organisation they declare actual value, no messing here) came through without charge, so it's luck of the draw.

There are two options - 1. Fit the High Canon Pinion DG4813, I think these are available from Eurotimez and are a direct swap 2. Fit a new or used ETA or clone 2836-2 but you would need to replace or mod the dial feet as they are in different positions, and change the hands which are a different size (Tudor ones obtainable from ebay for not a lot of money)

Very tasty JoJo! I really must try on a date model to make sure they're not too small on my wrist with a view to getting one.

Yes it's not very well known, but has got a little easier to find over the past few years, and that kit from Stewmac at $9.99 is great value. Just love the watch by the way!!

The best stuff for this sort of work is a product called Micromesh which runs from 1500 to 12,000 grit. It was originally designed for plastic aircraft windows. I use it for polishing out nitro lacquer (guitar refinishing) followed by Meguiars swirl remover and it is pure magic. I use the bigger sheets, but this kit sounds ideal for watches - http://www.stewmac.c...by/product/3711 Mind you sounds like you guys have all found a way to get by

Standard politician. Do as I say, not as I do. B*stards all of them. Good laugh!

Ah thats interesting, so it appears I stumbled on the correct thing then by pure luck! I admit I assumed a '78 would be the slow beat movement. In that case the 2846 will go in something more vintage. I have a spare 2836 which I had in any case assumed would be the correct movement for my other DJ Project which is based on a 1984 16014 Case and will have the Tapestry dial (assuming its safe transit through the post!).

I don't know about the rep or the midsize or even the saphire crystal, but on the men's DJ with acrylic crystal, the bezel actually has a function to hold the crystal on tight and waterproof and needs to be pressed on.

Thanks Ubi, well spotted!! I was so carried away with the beauty of my creation I hadn't noticed I assumed it was cyclops distortion in the pic but you were right. Now fixed. Thanks to everyone for your kind comments, I do believe DJ's are underappreciated as Camiel said, it is a very elegant watch indeed. Strangely when I first got into reps and was looking around, before I found the forums, I was most attracted to the DJ. However it has taken me a couple of years and lots of blind alleys to come round to it again. Now onwards to the next one...........................

Well nearly......... There were a few dramas with this one. Suffice to say the movement was in and out of the case and stripped of dial and hands rather more times than I care to mention. The 2846 planned for this was eventually replaced with a 2836 as the 2846 I have has the slightly raised ETA datewheel which doesn't leave enough room and the insert fouls on the dial. I have a spare flat datewheel but wanted this finished as I'm off on two weeks business travel on Monday so the quick solution was the 2836 which already had an insert fitted. The datewheel font is not correct for a 1978 DJ but it will do till I can get something better, and I lost the Tudor second hand so that was fitted with the second hand from the donor watch which is not quite long enough. That will be replaced in due course. I have a second DJ project also on the go and I have managed to obtain my preferred 'tapestry' dial for that one. Just waiting for the dial and a white gold fluted bezel to arrive. I'm very pleased with the project outcome and find it wears fairly large on the wrist and doesn't feel too small. And now the pics -

I'm in the UK and have dozens. Let me know if this is a better location for you

I have to agree, those would be candidates for new replacements in my book. When it interferes with seeing the dial and hands it's over the top for me.

Good point JJ though I think he'd have to go to about $1500 at least from what I've seen unless he gets very lucky. They tend to be going for more than

Good point JJ though I think he'd have to go to about $1500 at least from what I've seen unless he gets very lucky. They tend to be going for more than

Catboy, vintage DJ is perfect, I'm building two at the minute, so if you need any help sourcing bits, let me know, I may have a few suggestions. GMT is kinda tricky because of the movement which would probably have to be a 2836 with GMT module. This means incorrect hand stack and lack of 'jumping' GMT hand adjustment. I'm budgeting around $600-$700 for my first one, and less than that for the second which will have a leather strap. If you go for a DJ you need a 2836 (high beat) or 2846 (low beat movement, correctish for vintage DJ) and a Stilty conversion ring (pm him, they're $40 shipped), you can usually pick up a watch with either on ebay for not a huge amount and rob out the movement. A&E watches on ebay have a case available at the moment - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rolex-Men-Genuine-SS-Case-16014-White-Gold-Bezel-Crown_W0QQitemZ280401138939QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414935d4fb&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262 - and a couple of dials, but you may pick up cheaper if you're willing to wait. A&E will usually accept a decent offer too. Good luck with the project!!

I belive this is a sort of racism. Wow a black man is POTUS, let's give him a prize! Obama would not have got the Peace prize if he'd been white I feel sure. Let's face it Clinton didn't and he has done more for peace (Northern Ireland for a start) than most. Most of the commentators this side of the pond have suggested the main reason he got the prize is he is not George Bush. Poor George, a gut reaction to 911 in the invasion of Iraq and he's branded a warmonger for ever! Obama would have been worth a hell of a lot more in my eyes if he'd said "Thanks guys, but I really don't deserve it, please give it to someone more deserving". However he didn't.

I can vouch for that having once superglued my finger to my bench leaving me unable to reach either the superglue remover or a scalpel with which I could have escaped with the loss of a little skin. I had to remain stuck till my wife returned half an hour later!! Sure teaches you a lesson about superglue and fingers..................

I don't believe superglue will 'gas off' once it is dry, the question is how long that would take, but that is only a guess based on using it for various guitar based things (for example, sealing and filling grain before finishing with paint or lacquer is a recognised use, though not one I am fond of!) Any glue is going to give out solvents over an extended period, and nitro lacquer for example (aka nail varnish) can 'gas off' for months or even years, thinning the coat and sinking into the wood grain (effectively what happens over time with a vintage guitar. I wonder if there are any downsides to using epoxy for a watch application? @JMB, the only problem with gel superglues is they don't wick by capillary action into the very small space between two parts because of their viscosity which sort of negates one of the superglue's good points.

I must admit I use it, with care, for fixing dials to dial support rings if the dial feet are missing, as an example, just a couple of spots wicks in nicely. It can easily be separated if necessary and the remnants removed by scraping or with acetone/thinners/superglue remover. I suppose the major problem with superglue is it is not viscous so creeps in everywhere and if you drop a bit into a movement, it is toast. But it is not good to take any glue near a movement without considerable care!!

Depends where the watch is. If he has his hands on his lap, don't stare, your interest may be misinterpreted You'll have to read the Rep rule book - Rule 14(a) subsection h(i) Never stare at another's watch trying to identify whether it is a rep or gen. Either take numerous surreptitious glances, particularly useful if you have a photographic memory, or compliment the other on the watch and ask if you can have a closer look. (See Rule 39(j) for how and when to call someone out, including tips on martial art defenses against irate gen owners) Why does it matter anyway? I check out others' watches but rarely identify a fake, even on the odd occasion when I do (and believe me that means it is a very bad rep!!) I would never be as impolite as to question them.

Gen parts for what? What parts specifically? In theory only from an AD. However eBay is a possible source

Another plus for PT from me. Top class dealer!

Having to look up 'declension' is not a problem. Not understanding what the definition means is nature's way of telling you you need to take an English class I have to say the balance is just about right on this forum regarding rules and their enforcement. I dislike over moderation and censorship.